Not sure but isnt there some pressure inside the housing that the water pump drive shaft goes thru?????
Not sure but isnt there some pressure inside the housing that the water pump drive shaft goes thru?????
You are correct about it would have to do it all the time. Head gaskets aren't intermittent issues. have to be and your crank case oil would be milky. Not sure if mentioned u looked at it or not?
Also on the “jump” to overheat. Are you really overheating? As in, have u physically checked your temp when it jumps from fine to quickly overheat? Are you blowing off fluid when it happens?
Is it possible that crank case pressure can introduce air into cooling system from the impeller drive shaft making it appear to be a head gasket?
It may be constantly leaking a little till it accumulates and then causes cavitation the over heat.I’m not sure but if this was true i could see it causing the problem but I would still wonder why it would not constantly add air instead of randomly getting a bubble now
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Agreed,Sometimes (not every time) you’ll get white (steam) exhaust smoke with a bad head gasket.
Another symptom of a head gasket leak is getting bubbles visible at the radiator cap. But with this cooling system that tends to trap air, that’s probably not reliable.
Unequal compression in one or more cylinders.
Rock hard radiator hoses (pressurized).
Oil sheen in the radiator.
And the aforementioned milky engine oil.
Depending on the nature of the head gasket leak, you may get all, some, or none of these symptoms.
Sometimes (not every time) you’ll get white (steam) exhaust smoke with a bad head gasket.
Another symptom of a head gasket leak is getting bubbles visible at the radiator cap. But with this cooling system that tends to trap air, that’s probably not reliable.
Unequal compression in one or more cylinders.
Rock hard radiator hoses (pressurized).
Oil sheen in the radiator.
And the aforementioned milky engine oil.
Depending on the nature of the head gasket leak, you may get all, some, or none of these symptoms.
No pressure inside the stator cover except for the little that is let out from the pvc. Mine used to leak a bit around that plug that the wires come out of on the stator/ water pump case. I cleaned up the plug and case then applied some RTV onto the plug and kinda pushed it in around the wires and plug as good as I could. I used a bent tip small screw driver to open up the rubber around the wires and the case and pushed the RTV in as good as I could. It has stopped the oil seepage for the last couple years so I must have done something right.Not sure but isnt there some pressure inside the housing that the water pump drive shaft goes thru?
Thanks for the info.I wasn’t sure if there was any pressure inside the cover, So It’s just capillary action wicking the oil thru. As awesome as Honda’s are, all vehicles have their idiosyncrasiesNo pressure inside the stator cover except for the little that is let out from the pvc. Mine used to leak a bit around that plug that the wires come out of on the stator/ water pump case. I cleaned up the plug and case then applied some RTV onto the plug and kinda pushed it in around the wires and plug as good as I could. I used a bent tip small screw driver to open up the rubber around the wires and the case and pushed the RTV in as good as I could. It has stopped the oil seepage for the last couple years so I must have done something right.
This is the one I have. NAPA # BK 700-1006NAPA makes a way to determine if there are exhaust gasses in the radiator and it's a whole kit. It's a blue fluid that you poor into a clear cylinder that has a rubber wedge that sticks in the radiator. Crank the engine and if there are exhaust gasses present the fluid will turn yellow. Just because the head gasket is blown doesn't mean it will have water in the oil. I would try the vacuum approach to adding coolant to insure the removal of air pockets.
I got a snappy at work and a mity vac for home use they both work great. snappy is alot faster though.This is the one I have.
MSM300CRA - Vacuum Assist Coolant Refiller
Use with shop air (80+ PSI) to create a vacuum and refill a drained cooling system in less than five minutes. Helps prevent "airlocks". Compatible with most cooling system adapters. Powerful 2.4 CFM vacuum generator and large fluid passageways give the refiller a fluid flow rate of 2.4 gallons...webcat.cornwelltools.com
I did a little digging for you.Was this issue ever fixed? I have a Honda pioneer 1000 with same issue.
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