P1000m5 Pioneer 1000-5 can’t get air out of coolant system

[ODAMO]

????

Not sure but isnt there some pressure inside the housing that the water pump drive shaft goes thru?

 

[Admin]

 

[ODAMO]

Maybe the same pressure plus oil sling is what causes some to have oil appear at the charging system connector under the seat?

 

[Chamby1000-5]

You are correct about it would have to do it all the time. Head gaskets aren't intermittent issues. have to be and your crank case oil would be milky. Not sure if mentioned u looked at it or not?

Also on the “jump” to overheat. Are you really overheating? As in, have u physically checked your temp when it jumps from fine to quickly overheat? Are you blowing off fluid when it happens?

Yes when it is overheating on dash it is over 200 degrees at the motor while always 100 degrees lower at the radiator and seeing how I don’t have a thermostat in it right now those to temps shouldn’t be more than about 30 degrees apart give or take. I put my temp gun in the glove compartment and check it periodically and when it overheats to make sure it is overheating because of no water circulating instead of actually overheating. And sometimes if you don’t stop the second the light comes on it will have a tiny bit spew out when you take the cap off but the majority comes out when you crank it over with the cap off


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[Chamby1000-5]

Is it possible that crank case pressure can introduce air into cooling system from the impeller drive shaft making it appear to be a head gasket?

I’m not sure but if this was true i could see it causing the problem but I would still wonder why it would not constantly add air instead of randomly getting a bubble now


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[ODAMO]

I’m not sure but if this was true i could see it causing the problem but I would still wonder why it would not constantly add air instead of randomly getting a bubble now


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It may be constantly leaking a little till it accumulates and then causes cavitation the over heat.

 

[JMynes]

Sometimes (not every time) you’ll get white (steam) exhaust smoke with a bad head gasket.
Another symptom of a head gasket leak is getting bubbles visible at the radiator cap. But with this cooling system that tends to trap air, that’s probably not reliable.
Unequal compression in one or more cylinders.
Rock hard radiator hoses (pressurized).
Oil sheen in the radiator.
And the aforementioned milky engine oil.
Depending on the nature of the head gasket leak, you may get all, some, or none of these symptoms.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Sometimes (not every time) you’ll get white (steam) exhaust smoke with a bad head gasket.
Another symptom of a head gasket leak is getting bubbles visible at the radiator cap. But with this cooling system that tends to trap air, that’s probably not reliable.
Unequal compression in one or more cylinders.
Rock hard radiator hoses (pressurized).
Oil sheen in the radiator.
And the aforementioned milky engine oil.
Depending on the nature of the head gasket leak, you may get all, some, or none of these symptoms.

Agreed,
I thought I read that it burps fluid out the radiator with the cap off, at idle and cold. That's normally a good sign of a bad gasket. Hope not.

 

[Chamby1000-5]

Sometimes (not every time) you’ll get white (steam) exhaust smoke with a bad head gasket.
Another symptom of a head gasket leak is getting bubbles visible at the radiator cap. But with this cooling system that tends to trap air, that’s probably not reliable.
Unequal compression in one or more cylinders.
Rock hard radiator hoses (pressurized).
Oil sheen in the radiator.
And the aforementioned milky engine oil.
Depending on the nature of the head gasket leak, you may get all, some, or none of these symptoms.

Only get bubbles at the cap so hopefully not head gasket but when I get done working it, its going in the shop till I figure it out


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[slowdryrider]

Not sure but isnt there some pressure inside the housing that the water pump drive shaft goes thru?

No pressure inside the stator cover except for the little that is let out from the pvc. Mine used to leak a bit around that plug that the wires come out of on the stator/ water pump case. I cleaned up the plug and case then applied some RTV onto the plug and kinda pushed it in around the wires and plug as good as I could. I used a bent tip small screw driver to open up the rubber around the wires and the case and pushed the RTV in as good as I could. It has stopped the oil seepage for the last couple years so I must have done something right.

 

[ODAMO]

No pressure inside the stator cover except for the little that is let out from the pvc. Mine used to leak a bit around that plug that the wires come out of on the stator/ water pump case. I cleaned up the plug and case then applied some RTV onto the plug and kinda pushed it in around the wires and plug as good as I could. I used a bent tip small screw driver to open up the rubber around the wires and the case and pushed the RTV in as good as I could. It has stopped the oil seepage for the last couple years so I must have done something right.

Thanks for the info.I wasn’t sure if there was any pressure inside the cover, So It’s just capillary action wicking the oil thru. As awesome as Honda’s are, all vehicles have their idiosyncrasies

 

[Mopower58]

NAPA makes a way to determine if there are exhaust gasses in the radiator and it's a whole kit. It's a blue fluid that you poor into a clear cylinder that has a rubber wedge that sticks in the radiator. Crank the engine and if there are exhaust gasses present the fluid will turn yellow. Just because the head gasket is blown doesn't mean it will have water in the oil. I would try the vacuum approach to adding coolant to insure the removal of air pockets.

 

[Mopower58]

NAPA makes a way to determine if there are exhaust gasses in the radiator and it's a whole kit. It's a blue fluid that you poor into a clear cylinder that has a rubber wedge that sticks in the radiator. Crank the engine and if there are exhaust gasses present the fluid will turn yellow. Just because the head gasket is blown doesn't mean it will have water in the oil. I would try the vacuum approach to adding coolant to insure the removal of air pockets.

This is the one I have. NAPA # BK 700-1006

 

[Mopower58]

IF it's the head gasket which I doubt it is, they normally don't fail off and on. I would see if they offer head studs instead of head bolts. They provide more clamping power than a bolt and don't stretch as much. I installed a lot of ARP brand sets in modified Cummins.

 

[bigshoe]

This is the one I have.

MSM300CRA - Vacuum Assist Coolant Refiller

Use with shop air (80+ PSI) to create a vacuum and refill a drained cooling system in less than five minutes. Helps prevent "airlocks". Compatible with most cooling system adapters. Powerful 2.4 CFM vacuum generator and large fluid passageways give the refiller a fluid flow rate of 2.4 gallons...

webcat.cornwelltools.com

I got a snappy at work and a mity vac for home use they both work great. snappy is alot faster though.