P700 Pioneer 700 Service Manual and accessory wire?

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Wandering1

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First post. Hope I'm doing this correctly and following the correct protocol. Anyhow, started to make my first mod to my new (to me) completely stock 2016 700-4. Literally the guy I bought it off of did nothing to it except add the OEM windshield and hard top. Want to add LED mirrors and could not for the life of me figure out which wire to hook to for it to be switched. Came across the service manual on the net and thought I'd share the link for others to download as well. https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf4/8...?e0f25f9f48a18a03e975ff6e82f000a6&take=binary

BTW, which wire from the ignition should I hook this thing into so it will only work when the ignition is on?? Red with the white stripe??? (LED mirrors I bought come with a relay, switch, and 30 amp fuse all pre-wired and ready to go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XFLJ71N/?tag=sxsweb24-20)
 
Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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BTW, which wire from the ignition should I hook this thing into so it will only work when the ignition is on?? Red with the white stripe??? (LED mirrors I bought come with a relay, switch, and 30 amp fuse all pre-wired and ready to go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XFLJ71N/?tag=sxsweb24-20)

Welcome.

But I don't recommend tapping the ignition wires. You need to tap the acc circuit instead.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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Glock21user

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What @Hondasxs said.
Pulling off of the ignition switch is not a good idea.
There is no way the switch or associated wiring to/from the switch can take 30 amp.
The 30 amp fuse you have with the mirrors probably won't even protect the mirrors.
What is the power draw per mirror?
Tie into the accessory lead on the 12v outlet on the dash and fuse properly.
 
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Wandering1

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Here is a pic of the wiring harness that came with the lights off amazon. Left to right: my hand is near the 30 amp fuse, relay, switch, the green plug on the right plugs into the LED mirror (there are two of those green plugs)It got a LOT of 5 star reviews so I'm assuming the fuse is sufficient? I just don't know where to hook it in my 700.
Harness
 
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Wandering1

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Please be patient, I'm really new to the Pioneer, and I'm horrible with DC electronics but trying my best... But when I look at the skinny wires on the cigarette lighter, to me they look much thinner than the ones in the ignition wiring? :)
 
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Hi,
Can you take a pic of the back of the switch so I can see wire color layout?
Looks like there is only 3 wires there. Usually, there are 5.

Ok.. Now I know what you are dealing with.
This is a common relay setup.
Those wired should be direct to the battery, but right off the bat that makes it work anytime.
We need to re-wire it so the trigger wire at the switch is key-on.

Send pics requested above, please.
 
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look much thinner than the ones in the ignition wiring? :)
Yes, But neither can handle a 30a load.
The issue with the ign wires is if you have an issue and short it you are dead in the water.
If you short the ACC circuit, you can still get back to the truck.
Both are key-on and can do the same thing.
 
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Wandering1

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239FDEE8 ED96 4985 B161 562BD6DFD250

Yes, But neither can handle a 30a load.
The issue with the ign wires is if you have an issue and short it you are dead in the water.
If you short the ACC circuit, you can still get back to the truck.
Both are key-on and can do the same thing.
I can’t FIND an ACC circuit that isn’t hot all the time. When I probe the thick wire going to the fuse box where the accessory fuse is, it is always hot. And so the rocker switch for my LEDs is always lit up and will drain the battery.
 
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The WHITE wire is the trigger wire. It needs to be unplugged and taped off.
Next, we need to locate your key-on source and run it to that pin.
The ACC circuit is what we need to tap for this.
The ACC circuit is key-on. If yours is not, you are doing something wrong or it has been altered.
 
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Wandering1

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I can't FIND the bloody ACC circuit. (If you ask my wife she wouldn't be surprised. She sends me to get something and its right in front of my face but I still don't see it haha.) Like, a picture of which wire is on the ACC circuit that is key-on would be immensely helpful. I don't know which wiring harness, or which color wire is the ACC circuit that is key on. The thicker red wire that runs to the fuse box under the hood and powers all those circuits has power in key-off position so it isn't that wire... What I think I want to do is add a fuse block under the hood for whatever accessories I get. But I want the power to that added fuse block to be key-on only. So.... what color wire and where is it that I can tap to get that key-on power source?
 
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Wandering1

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Again, sorry for adding more to the thread. I was awake a bunch scratching my head about this because when I hooked the LED mirrors straight to the battery last night and went on a short trail ride they worked AWESOME and I gots to make them work! Literally I have zero need for a light bar anymore, just the LED mirrors and stock headlights are more than plenty enough to light up the night. Highly recommend them! (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XFLJ71N/?tag=sxsweb24-20)

The issue is when hooked straight to the battery the little blue LED on the rocker switch never shuts off so my battery is going to drain when its sitting in the garage. I have thought about running a hot line from the battery to the engine compartment and putting a master "accessory on" toggle switch on the dash that turns on all the accessories, but having to push two switches seems clunky to me when there's already something being turned on every time I ride (the ignition). I suppose the plus is it would for sure turn off all accessories when parked (as long as I don't forget to toggle it haha)

I did try out the cig lighter with a little USB charger, and can confirm it is stock and only comes on with key. But the fuse for that is only 10 amps and the wire looks pretty thin to be tapping and adding more stuff to? (I plan on these mirror LEDs, some sort of dome light, possibly a blinker kit (TurnPro Honda Plug-n-Play Signal System for Honda Pioneer 520, Pioneer 700, Pioneer 1000), not sure what else?

Questions:
1 - Which of the two wires on the backside of the cig lighter is the hot? what color is the wire?
2 - Is that 10 amp circuit with skinny wire really the only place to add accessories that would be key-on operation only? Seems to me it will be overloaded pretty quickly. Would prefer a simple / cheap way to add a small fuse box or terminal block under the hood that is key-on only for accessories?
3 - brain fart: my headlights only come on when I am key-on. I wonder if I can add anything to the headlight circuit by tapping into the hot wire at the headlights?
 
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1 - White with black stripe. Green is ALWAYS ground for Honda.
2 - You are not pulling the power for the lightgs from here, you are pulling the trigger power. Yes, it can handle the added .3 amp load. It can handle up to 15A rated.
3 - The headlight circuit can not handle 30 amps. You could tap it for trigger power tho.


Ok.. I think you are misunderstood on how this works.
A relay's job is to get power from a high amp source (battery) while saving your main system.
If wired correctly, the trigger wire, Post #2 on the switch, just needs low amp power to "trigger it"
This trigger wire turns the relay ON thus powering the lights from the battery..

Here is what you need to do. At the switch,
We need to make sure the white wire is constant (always hot) and the blue wire is only hot when the switch is ON. Test light will work or just unplug one and see if the switch stays lighted up or not. I am fairly sure the white wire is your constant at post #2.

Now that we have confirmed the constant. Unplug it and tape it off well.

Next, Tap the cig (white with a black strip) and run it to this pin.
DONE.

It will now only work with key-on.
 
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Wandering1

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THANK YOU for your help, and your patience, and explaining the relay deal. Like I said I know nothing about electronics…. I may not have a chance to try this all out until late tonight or even next weekend. Leaving on a business trip today. But once I do I will let you know how it goes!
 
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84 terminal on relay = ground
85 terminal on relay = 12v trigger from acc wire
This wire will go straight to your switch
30 terminal on relay = direct batt power
87 terminal on relay = output to acc/light

If wired in this manner your battery will not discharge due to your wiring when the machine is turned off.
 
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Wandering1

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I wanted to follow up with you guys on this one. Today I finally got a chance to Jerry rig some wiring, and indeed the white wire is the trigger/relay. I haven't run the wires and zip tied them all, but thanks to your help I at least know what connects to what to make it work properly (rocker switch only lites when the key is on, and LEDs only work then too). Now I need to buy a terminal strip to mount near the OEM fuse box, run a hot from the battery to the hood area, cut my dash for the switch plate I bought, etc. But I wanted to make sure to THANK YOU guys for all your help with the wiring side! :) Incidentally, cutting this plastic on the dash is a pain. Either my utility knife isn't very sharp or there's a better way I haven't thought of LOL.
 
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try this much easier than splicing into existing wire and is key on power.
This connector is tied into the primary power via the diagnostic connector. I don't recommend using it because of where it gets power. It collects power from the 15A light circuit, which also directly powers the PCM. A short to this circuit would be a critical issue.

An alternative would be the key-on ACC circuit. The below item we have designed works with this circuit and gives fused power that will not leave you dead in the water if something goes wrong.

 

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