P700 Power source for dual volt meter

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Pedpole

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First I would like to thank everyone for the help and advice on setting my Pioneer up. The advice has been extremely helpful as I accessorize my ride. I am now hooking up a dual volt meter with the dual battery and wondering if I can power the volt meter from both sides of the the battery isolator and if not do I have to run back to the battery itself. The diagram shows a common ground and I was thinking of using the ground on my fuse panel. Any help is appreciated.
 
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CID

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Yes, you can connect the VM to each side of the isolator. Note that the ground lead needs to be switched or the VM will stay on, most use a key switched relay to control the ground.
 
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Pedpole

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Yes I meant volt meter. Over analyzing things and had brain fog. What I did was connect the main battery to the key on power on the stinger relay and the auxiliary battery to an open slot on the fuse panel. The ground is connected to the ground on the fuse panel. Should I change the power to what I asked above using the True am isolator for positive and then use the ground on the stinger.
 
Hillbillytnt

Hillbillytnt

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Yes I meant volt meter. Over analyzing things and had brain fog. What I did was connect the main battery to the key on power on the stinger relay and the auxiliary battery to an open slot on the fuse panel. The ground is connected to the ground on the fuse panel. Should I change the power to what I asked above using the True am isolator for positive and then use the ground on the stinger.
The true isolator is marked main and aux. run a wire from each side of it to the corresponding blade on the back of the volt meter. The other blade on the meter is the ground. If you bought the kit it should have come with a relay that will allow this ground to be controlled. Because the vm has two power sources the best way to turn it off is to cut the ground that’s what the relay does. If you just hook it straight to a ground in your fuse box it will work but it will stay on 24/7.
 
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Pedpole

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I should have said I hooked it up to my second fuse panel which is powered by the stinger relay which only has key on power supplied by the Honda SXS store key on power harness. My thought was neither meter will have power unless the key is on.
 
Hillbillytnt

Hillbillytnt

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I should have said I hooked it up to my second fuse panel which is powered by the stinger relay which only has key on power supplied by the Honda SXS store key on power harness. My thought was neither meter will have power unless the key is on.
The stinger controls the power to the fuse box I don’t think it will disconnect the ground. The ground is constant. If your running the hot wires through it that may work but I’m not sure. Seems like a lot of hassle to avoid the relay. The relay only has four wires you only use three and if you have the second fuse box set to be key on you can plug two the hot and ground into the fuse box. Then the green to the ground on meter. The second green is extra.
 
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I should have said I hooked it up to my second fuse panel which is powered by the stinger relay which only has key on power supplied by the Honda SXS store key on power harness. My thought was neither meter will have power unless the key is on.
Unless I'm missing something, you connected the two Hot leads from the VM directly to the two isolator lugs (which are always hot) and the Ground lead to ground. If that's the case, your VM will stay on. Like Hillbilly said above, it's easiest to switch the single lead to the Ground side with a relay.

Note that an LED VM has a very low draw, I knew a motorcycle guy with one that stayed on and it never caused him a problem, so it can be done - I just want everything off when I'm not riding which could be several months during the winter.
 
Seadonist

Seadonist

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The true isolator is marked main and aux. run a wire from each side of it to the corresponding blade on the back of the volt meter. The other blade on the meter is the ground. If you bought the kit it should have come with a relay that will allow this ground to be controlled. Because the vm has two power sources the best way to turn it off is to cut the ground that’s what the relay does. If you just hook it straight to a ground in your fuse box it will work but it will stay on 24/7.

When you say “cut the ground” do you mean to cut the ground loop wire and still ground the other wire? My VM is staying powered constantly and I followed the directions that came with the isolator kit. I ran the blue and green wired from the corresponding isolator terminals to the blades on the VM, the green wire on the relay to the corresponding blade on the VM, the black ground wire to my common negative buss bar and my hot wire to my common positive buss bar.


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Hillbillytnt

Hillbillytnt

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When you say “cut the ground” do you mean to cut the ground loop wire and still ground the other wire? My VM is staying powered constantly and I followed the directions that came with the isolator kit. I ran the blue and green wired from the corresponding isolator terminals to the blades on the VM, the green wire on the relay to the corresponding blade on the VM, the black ground wire to my common negative buss bar and my hot wire to my common positive buss bar.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I’m referring to what the relay does. It cuts the ground in order to turn off the voltmeter. The meter has two sources of power,one from each battery, so in order to control it it’s just easier to control it with the ground. Is your common positive bar hot all the time. If so that’s the problem. You need to control power going to the relay. The red wire. When the red wire has power the relay makes the connection and supplies the meter with a ground. Do you have a controlled source of power. Something that is only hot with key on or when switches on.
 
Mudwisel

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I have a dual display voltmeter. main side wired to keyed power and top display will show main voltage. My secondary fuse pa
nel is turned on by rocker switch wire to secondary battery. The bottom display shows secondary battery voltage but only with the rocker for the fuse panel turned on. If the ignition is on and the fuse panel also I can monitor both voltages at the same time
 
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When you say “cut the ground” do you mean to cut the ground loop wire and still ground the other wire? My VM is staying powered constantly and I followed the directions that came with the isolator kit. I ran the blue and green wired from the corresponding isolator terminals to the blades on the VM, the green wire on the relay to the corresponding blade on the VM, the black ground wire to my common negative buss bar and my hot wire to my common positive buss bar.


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I don’t think so. In a normal circuit, we switch the Hot side but with the dual VM we switch the Ground. So cutting the Ground simply means when the switch controlled relay releases, that ’cuts the ground’, which is a single lead and common to both read outs on the VM.
 
Hillbillytnt

Hillbillytnt

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I have a dual display voltmeter. main side wired to keyed power and top display will show main voltage. My secondary fuse pa
nel is turned on by rocker switch wire to secondary battery. The bottom display shows secondary battery voltage but only with the rocker for the fuse panel turned on. If the ignition is on and the fuse panel also I can monitor both voltages at the same time
I have the relay for the meter run through my 2nd fuse box that’s controlled by the stinger. So both sides of meter display with key on and when I fire the stinger through the master switch.
 
Seadonist

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I’m wondering if I have my stinger relay leads hooked up backwards. From the relay through the fuse block, I have no juice. Anywhere prior to that, I have power


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Mudwisel

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I have the relay for the meter run through my 2nd fuse box that’s controlled by the stinger. So both sides of meter display with key on and when I fire the stinger through the master switch.
sounds similar to mine. Second fuse is controlled by stinger which is activated by rocker switch
 
Seadonist

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sounds similar to mine. Second fuse is controlled by stinger which is activated by rocker switch

I have no rocker switch run to mine. Maybe that’s the culprit??


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Hillbillytnt

Hillbillytnt

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I have no rocker switch run to mine. Maybe that’s the culprit??


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It can be a rocker switch or just a key on source. You can tap into the acc fuse for key on power or buy the harnesses from the club store. You just need to control the power going into the red wire of the relay. I highly recommend a controlled source of power. It goes a long way when installing other acc.
 
Mudwisel

Mudwisel

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i used rocker on secondary side because i wanted to be able to run my accessories with out key. just a personal choice
 
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Seadonist

Seadonist

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It can be a rocker switch or just a key on source. You can tap into the acc fuse for key on power or buy the harnesses from the club store. You just need to control the power going into the red wire of the relay. I highly recommend a controlled source of power. It goes a long way when installing other acc.

This is funny: I used the acc fuse tap but I only put one 15a fuse in it. Put the second 15a fuse in and voila! Power running to all places properly now. Thanks for the help guys!


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