Hello I’m about to order power steering for my 15 p500. My question is do I have to draw power from the battery or can I hook the positive cable for the power steering to the accessory harness under the hood? And then ground the negative hook up?
Mudder
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The PS key-on trigger can be from the accessory harness. The power steering motor should run off a separate lead from the battery. The power steering motor is 220 watts while the accessory harness is fused at 180 watts (15 amps) total. Hope this helps.
If starting from scratch, I ran a 6 gauge hot from the battery, to a switched waterproof breaker mounted near the battery, then ran wire under the skid plate to under hood post terminals. Added a 6 gauge ground to under hood frame to the negative terminal post. This provides an extension of your battery terminals where I also run a winch, lights and PS, and the 6 gauge is protected with the inline breaker, which can be switched off if needed like for a parasitic drain during long term storage.
If starting from scratch, I ran a 6 gauge hot from the battery, to a switched waterproof breaker mounted near the battery, then ran wire under the skid plate to under hood post terminals. Added a 6 gauge ground to under hood frame to the negative terminal post. This provides an extension of your battery terminals where I also run a winch, lights and PS, and the 6 gauge is protected with the inline breaker, which can be switched off if needed like for a parasitic drain during long term storage.
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Another question I seen on here somewhere that you could hook up the power cable to the winch block so you don’t have to run the wire the whole way back to the battery. How is that done and is it safe. I’m running out of room in my battery box for wires and if I don’t have to run them back there that would be great.
trigger
Old Ironsides
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Mudder
NTC Ambassador of Walls
Lifetime Member
If I already had a power cable run rated for max winch amps, I would draw PS motor off the full time hot on the winch block with no concern. Your supplied winch in-line breaker should provide max amp protection for the cable provided with the winch. JMO.
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This is the way I did mine. So far no problems.
Yes sir I did. Like I said no problems so far.
Do you know what gauge wire you have running from the battery to the solenoid. I might run heavier wire.
No I don't. It's the wire that came with the winch though. KFI 3500.
Mudder
NTC Ambassador of Walls
Lifetime Member
Hi guys,
Just got my power steering the other day and planning on installing when I get a chance to do the locker at the same time.
For those that know, how much power does this really consume? Based on what is above, I see the motor is rated at 220 watts and the fuse for the harness is set at 15 amps. Please tell me this doesn't consume this all of the time? Comon sense would say the more times I turn the steering wheel, the more power is consumed?
I'm trying to figure out my total power consumption as the P520 only produces so much electrical capacity. Between lights, winch, power steering and chargers for the NAV and phones, I just want to make sure I have reserve capacity without adding a second battery.
For those of you that either know this stuff like the back of your hand or have an electrical engineering degree, I would very much appreciate the help.
Thanks,
Rob
Just got my power steering the other day and planning on installing when I get a chance to do the locker at the same time.
For those that know, how much power does this really consume? Based on what is above, I see the motor is rated at 220 watts and the fuse for the harness is set at 15 amps. Please tell me this doesn't consume this all of the time? Comon sense would say the more times I turn the steering wheel, the more power is consumed?
I'm trying to figure out my total power consumption as the P520 only produces so much electrical capacity. Between lights, winch, power steering and chargers for the NAV and phones, I just want to make sure I have reserve capacity without adding a second battery.
For those of you that either know this stuff like the back of your hand or have an electrical engineering degree, I would very much appreciate the help.
Thanks,
Rob
MY Mother says some are more full of THEMSELVES than others.
Sorry : No Degree only 55 Years Plus Experience in Automtive Electrical & Mechanical Field.
Easiest is for you to go on line to :
webstaurantstore.com
simple Math Formula to convert <> watts to amps
Now & in the future YOU will Know How
Class is ended.
Sorry : No Degree only 55 Years Plus Experience in Automtive Electrical & Mechanical Field.
Easiest is for you to go on line to :
webstaurantstore.com
simple Math Formula to convert <> watts to amps
Now & in the future YOU will Know How
Class is ended.
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This is super helpful as I might do what you and others have suggested by running a single set of cables to the front and tying in power for the winch, lights and power steering to that point.
Rob
I would for sure call you way more of an expert than I am!
Thank you for your help and I sincerely apologize if I inadvertently diminished your contributions or made any suggestion that you didn't have the correct credentials to help. That was not my intent at all.
Rob
Mudder
NTC Ambassador of Walls
Lifetime Member
220 watts is max, and correct it only draws based on demand, however I would only use a Sub harness lead for the PS key on “trigger“ relay, not motor IMO. No issues yet here with the winch and PS on 6 ga wire which is protected by a switched breaker near the battery. Once the 6 gauge is run, you have an extension of the battery terminals under the hood and accessory power need solved.
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Thank you for the clarification and your help! I just want to make sure that after I add a couple small LED lights and the PSteering, I won't melt down my stator or battery.
Once again, my apologies for striking a nerve...
Once again, my apologies for striking a nerve...
D
I just purchased the Tusk unit from Rocky Mtn. It was $100+ less expensive than the other option here on the board. They didn't guarantee the P500 kit would fit a 520 but it went in like butter. The suggestions to watch clearance on the steering shaft that some of the other posts indicated was a huge help as I tightened it all down. Also, the Tusk unit said to splice their white (thin gauge) wire, into the brown ignition wire. Splicing factory wiring isn't quite what I consider wisdom so I bought the accessory harness and used one of the leads that powers up that white wire when the key is on. I did call Rocky/Tusk to make sure that it was only a trigger wire and not some weird speed sensitivity thing and the rep told me it was just to trigger the relay in the unit to power up when the ignition is on, and turn off when it is off.
I just got it all wired up last night and agree, by the time you look at LED's, Power Steering, a winch, etc, the fuse box/buss starts to look very appealing. I bought a 15 foot 4 gauge set of jumper cables and ran them to the battery and then set up a relay and fuse box under the hood to hook everything up to. Will throw a post up, or add it to one of the wiring ones in a few days when I get the time to post pictures.
Took it for a first quick drive this morning and am VERY happy so far. Turns easily with one hand, even from a dead stop right now.
I just got it all wired up last night and agree, by the time you look at LED's, Power Steering, a winch, etc, the fuse box/buss starts to look very appealing. I bought a 15 foot 4 gauge set of jumper cables and ran them to the battery and then set up a relay and fuse box under the hood to hook everything up to. Will throw a post up, or add it to one of the wiring ones in a few days when I get the time to post pictures.
Took it for a first quick drive this morning and am VERY happy so far. Turns easily with one hand, even from a dead stop right now.
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