P700 Rear Locker Brainstorming

[hicks4]

I don't see why you couldn't just do that and be fine...

 

[tjoreo]

I have been doing alot of thinking on this and like I said earlier this would be my main reason for looking at the 1000. I have been curious if you could add some type of coupler in the rear drive shaft, that could be quickly unhooked or unpinned. Then just drive the rig around in for 4 wheel drive and use the front differential to pull you around. Then when you want to off road, just hook up the rear driveshaft. Just a thought.

 

[Tflynn]

It wouldn't be as easy as just removing an axle. The problem is your wheel hub is held onto the knuckle by the axle. In other words, there is nothing to keep the wheel from falling off without the axle there to hold it on. Read this thread if you want a little better understanding of how all the parts work together-

P700 - SuperATV Rhino axle install

Now if you're really serious about this (willing to ruin an axle) I have an idea of how you can do it. If you completely remove and disassemble the axle and cv joints you could then reinstall the half of the cv that goes into the diff and the half of the other cv that goes in the hub. Essentially, you would have only the outer halves of the cv joints installed. No inner halves to flop around, and no axle. Your diff would still be sealed up and your wheel still secured to the rig.

I'm not recommending you do this because I'm really not positive this would be a good OR SAFE solution, just an idea that may work. I would feel terrible if you guys did this and it caused someone to get hurt so be careful whatever you do!!!!!

 

[tjoreo]

I think @Tflynn has a good point, and this is probably not the best way to do it. One other thing to consider if you do it this way is that you are only going to have 1 rear tire breaking because the 700 uses the rear diff for the brakes. Even if there is away to open up the rear differential this could be a problem with the way it is setup. I guess I'll just live with it the way it is and if I break an axle or wear out the tires, I'll worry about it then.

 

[Tflynn]

I think @Tflynn has a good point, and this is probably not the best way to do it. One other thing to consider if you do it this way is that you are only going to have 1 rear tire breaking because the 700 uses the rear diff for the brakes. Even if there is away to open up the rear differential this could be a problem with the way it is setup. I guess I'll just live with it the way it is and if I break an axle or wear out the tires, I'll worry about it then.

Very good point about the brakes I hadn't thought of that.

 

[hicks4]

yea I mean we're def thinking, I just wish there was an easy way out and there's not. I'm, currently crunching numbers and thinking I'm just going to sell the 700-4 and the Rincon and pick me up a 1000-5 in the September when the Louisiana tax free holiday rolls around and just have one machine instead of 2...

 

[hicks4]

Don't really ever use the Rincon anymore so it's def the route I'd go

 

[hicks4]

Alright guys I need to update the thread! I did what i said i was going to do and sold the Rincon and 700-4. I ended up finding an immaculate 2016 1000-5 with only 200 miles on it for $14k. I think I did good and still have money left over from selling my other 2 machines. The only downside is that it's red, Id rather have silver or camo but it foes have the roof, windshield, and bedliner already so its good to go...

 

[hicks4]

Next up is going to be some sorr of sound absorbing mat for the underside of the roof, heat shield under the seat, winch, light bar on roof, light bar on front bumper, and backup light bar, I will also look for silver or camo panels or other options as I really do not like the red

 

[Delton]

Next up is going to be some sorr of sound absorbing mat for the underside of the roof, heat shield under the seat, winch, light bar on roof, light bar on front bumper, and backup light bar, I will also look for silver or camo panels or other options as I really do not like the red

The good news is you can completely swap out all the panels for whatever color you want for around 300 bucks.

 

[hicks4]

Except camo! I'll probably just do the silver

 

[ReidMcT]

so I find this diagram 2014 Honda Pioneer 700-4 (SXS700M4 AC) PROPELLER SHAFT | Babbitts Honda Partshouse would it be a matter of removing the shaft at the splines? Would I need to insert something in its place to prevent future damage? Thoughts from the experts?

No. If you remove the propeller shaft, you get no-wheel-drive in the rear, and the rear wheels are still locked. Worst of both worlds.

I wonder if anyone's found a nice differential that swaps in.

 

[HondaTech]

The Big Red is solid as well. Those parts wouldn't get you anywhere.

 

[DG Rider]

The Big Red is solid as well. Those parts wouldn't get you anywhere.

You sure about that? Could have sworn it operated in open diff mode in 2wd (rather oddly).

 

[kengineer]

Without getting into the rear end, with all that Honda goodness and design, if there was a way to mount one rear wheel on a bearing plate or clutch, it would make it a lot easier. Maybe something between the current wheel hub and wheel?

I like to borrow components that already exist as opposed to making my own when possible, so I am thinking of a front spindle assembly from a car that accepts the current wheel flange on one face and the wheel on the other.

Find some cheap, common, spindle maybe, even a trailer hub with mounting plate, drill, bolt, maybe scab a plate to accept the current pattern, and in my dream, use one with the same bolt pattern as existing wheel for the outboard end.

The kiss of death with this type of cobbling is to select something off a 1963 rambler cause you found one in your shed, you doom the project because when it fails, you end up hunting parts for your new orphan.

Tie Down Engineering 5-Lug Hub/Spindle End Unit for Build Your Own Trailer Axle System — 1750-Lb. Capacity Per Hub, Model# 80117 | Northern Tool + Equipment

One side would be wider, and it may damage something if you went airborne, try it and let us know!

 

[Magma]

Ok. I removed a rear axle. The axle can be disassembled with out damaging it. After removing the boots you can use a pick and remove a retainer ring. the cup and spline separate from the axle. you can leave the cup and spline in the diff ( keeping the diff sealed) I recommend cleaning all the grease out of the cup. Now you need to remove the other spline to put your hub back on. Do this by removing the boot and use a mallet to knock it off the axle. The axle has a pressure fit c clip on the end. It comes off fairly easy. Again clean all the grease out and reassemble the hub and put tires back on.

So here is the down and dirty about doing this. 1st the good news you definitely are not tearing up the grass it works! 2nd rear brake works fine since front brakes always normally do the major stopping anyway. Now the bad news when you hit the gas better do it slowly because the 1 wheel peel will definitely ruin your lawn and driveway and eat the tire. Also as you go fast the machine likes to squat in the one corner and causes you to steer the wheel to compensate.so now your steering wheel is cocked to the right as you are driving straight but that's not all if you let off the gas the machines weight will shift forward, causing the front wheels to grip and sends you turning right. What I'm saying is now you have a drivability issue at high speeds. But it drives fine under 14mph.

I reassembled my axle and put it back to normal and bought a set of turf tires that were less aggressive.