P1000 Rear locker cable

[ODAMO]

Are you making the adjustment properly? Are you lifting one tire and spinning it to confirm it is locked?
I wonder if the diff is locked per the instructions.

Yup lifted and confirmed the dash indication and made sure it is UNLOCKED per the instructions.

 

[Admin]

 

[Neohio]

Yup lifted and confirmed the dash indication and made sure it is UNLOCKED per the instructions.

That is the confusing part.
When in park and turf, I thought the rear diff was locked.
I wonder if that manual is correct.
I believe @lee or @HondaTech wrote out the procedure. I will do some digging and quote it here.

 

[Neohio]

Yup lifted and confirmed the dash indication and made sure it is UNLOCKED per the instructions.

I found this posted in another thread.

For the flux capacitor delete system, put the levers in Park and Turf mode.
Make sure the rear diff is locked (jack up a tire and try to turn it)
Pull the plastic cover off the rear diff (left side).
Adjust the nut like the front diff cable --> tighten the nut till the cross barrel just touches the end of the slot in the diff lock arm.
Back the nut off 1/2 turn.
Put the cover back on.
Done.

I think the service manual may be incorrect. I would go with the above written instruction and see if you have the proper play.

 

[ODAMO]

I found this posted in another thread.

I think the service manual may be incorrect. I would go with the above written instruction and see if you have the proper play.

I forgot to mention that when in turf mode putting it in park does indeed lock the rear. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[ODAMO]

My solution was to take a 3/8” dia. ss bolt and cut a .800 long piece from the unthreaded section , drill a .236 hole in the middle and inserted it in between adjusting nut and the stock joint pin.
This method still retains the anti rotation to hold the setting and allows for plenty of adjustment.

 

[ODAMO]

 

[ODAMO]

I have no idea why it keeps double posting

 

[gatorguy]

My solution was to take a 3/8” dia. ss bolt and cut a .800 long piece from the unthreaded section , drill a .236 hole in the middle and inserted it in between adjusting nut and the stock joint pin.
This method still retains the anti rotation to hold the setting and allows for plenty of adjustment.

I’m glad to see I’m not the only one having this problem! The cable is too long on my P1000-5 too. I’m going to try a spacer like you.

 

[Hello_Darkness]

Have you checked under the dash and verified the nut holding the cable to the shifter is tight, i've seen a few come loose

Also i remember running into this once before and i cant exactly recall the issue, but i wanna say the arm wasn't in the correct spot yet, like it hadn't released from lock position making the ferrule bottom out

 

[ODAMO]

Have you checked under the dash and verified the nut holding the cable to the shifter is tight, i've seen a few come loose

Also i remember running into this once before and i cant exactly recall the issue, but i wanna say the arm wasn't in the correct spot yet, like it hadn't released from lock position making the ferrule bottom out

I did look at the other end of the cable at the shift lever to see if I could adjust the cable thimble and not have to make the spacer but Honda did not thread the bracket that it engages so that adjustment possibility is a no bueno.
I did the spacer almost 2years ago and have not had to adjust it since.

 

[Hello_Darkness]

I did look at the other end of the cable at the shift lever to see if I could adjust the cable thimble and not have to make the spacer but Honda did not thread the bracket that it engages so that adjustment possibility is a no bueno.
I did the spacer almost 2years ago and have not had to adjust it since.

I was referring to the nut that holds the cable end to the arm

We've seen them be loose and the cable isn't fully pushing or pulling as it would. But if that was the case I would think the cable would have come completely loose by now

 

[ODAMO]

I was referring to the nut that holds the cable end to the arm

We've seen them be loose and the cable isn't fully pushing or pulling as it would. But if that was the case I would think the cable would have come completely loose by now

I understand. Typically that nut is used as a jamb nut because the thimble is usually threaded into a threaded hole and locked in place with that nut but in this situation Honda eliminated being able to adjust at both ends by not threading that hole. That’s why I made the spacer.

 

[gatorguy]

My solution was to take a 3/8” dia. ss bolt and cut a .800 long piece from the unthreaded section , drill a .236 hole in the middle and inserted it in between adjusting nut and the stock joint pin.
This method still retains the anti rotation to hold the setting and allows for plenty of adjustment

How did you get the nut off of the end of the cable to be able to thread on the spacer?

 

[ODAMO]

How did you get the nut off of the end of the cable to be able to thread on the spacer?

The spacer is not threaded

 

[gatorguy]

The spacer is not threaded

I get that. How did you get the spacer on the cable? You have to remove the nut at the end of the cable right?

 

[ODAMO]

I get that. How did you get the spacer on the cable? You have to remove the nut at the end of the cable right?

Yes, remove the nut, and pull cable back far enough to slip the the spacer in and the reinstall the nut.
By using round stock the fish mouth on the nut will still retain the setting