P1000 Rear SATV a-arms

[Dragon21]

Got mine on this weekend. rode it a little to let it settle and I need to adjust camber. Was thinking it would be quick and easy like the front but couldn't get the rear a arm to drop from the brackets by just taking the bolts out. Didn't have time to start digging into it more. Am i missing something? Guessing the shock will need to come out as well, gonna be a few weeks before i have a chance to mess with it again

 

[Admin]

 

[Boss0144]

I'm hoping I get to tackling this task this weekend.

Any advice before I jump in to the job? The SATV instructions are not overly detailed.

Any thing I need to do the job that isn't included with the kit? Fasteners to replace? Things to be careful of? Special tools? Torque specs? What MUST come off and what can I not fully disassemble to make the job easier?


Any lessons learned on setting camber?

It would be nice to get the job done at one time! My machine is at my place up north and I don't necessarily have as complete a set of equipment up there as I do at home. I'd like to be prepared ahead of time and get the job done in one trip.

Thanks for any advice you can offer!!

 

[Plumber32]

Got mine on this weekend. rode it a little to let it settle and I need to adjust camber. Was thinking it would be quick and easy like the front but couldn't get the rear a arm to drop from the brackets by just taking the bolts out. Didn't have time to start digging into it more. Am i missing something? Guessing the shock will need to come out as well, gonna be a few weeks before i have a chance to mess with it again

Yeah I just adjusted my rears. Had to unbolt the shock.

 

[DDDonkey]

The rear arms are easier to install in than the front arms. To make your life a little bit easier if you have the arms with you I would pre-grease them and look over the instructions on the super ATV website. Everything can be done with the basic hand tools, if you have an impact it will help out by speeding things up. There is also a YouTube video on the front and rear a-arms installs.

 

[Dragon21]

I'm hoping I get to tackling this task this weekend.

Any advice before I jump in to the job? The SATV instructions are not overly detailed.

Any thing I need to do the job that isn't included with the kit? Fasteners to replace? Things to be careful of? Special tools? Torque specs? What MUST come off and what can I not fully disassemble to make the job easier?


Any lessons learned on setting camber?

It would be nice to get the job done at one time! My machine is at my place up north and I don't necessarily have as complete a set of equipment up there as I do at home. I'd like to be prepared ahead of time and get the job done in one trip.

Thanks for any advice you can offer!!

Front or rear, or all 4?

There is a picture floating around somewhere with a good starting point for the front camber settings. havent seen one for the rear though. Nothing too difficult. If your doing a arms id suggest looking into extended brake lines. The stock ones will be tight. @jak9922 makes some awesome ones. Like @DDDonkey said. basic hand tools (17mm, 14mm, and 10mm i believe) dont recall OEM shock bolt size. Mine is a 19mm. Impact is always helpful of course. May need to adjust tie rods after doing the front to get the toe right. I put in steering stops and hate the loss of turning radius, some people done use them but you need to be careful if you choose not to.

go ahead and get new ball joints for the front if you haven't already. Hit or miss about getting the old ones out without breaking.

 

[Boss0144]

I’m doing the rears.

You tube - I hadn’t thought of that - that’s a good suggestion. I’ll take a look.

I’ve got basic impact tools, so I’ll be using those.

I was concerned with removing the half shafts and knuckles and any potential complications that might make. Hopefully you tube will give some good tips!

Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dragon21]

I’m doing the rears.

You tube - I hadn’t thought of that - that’s a good suggestion. I’ll take a look.

I’ve got basic impact tools, so I’ll be using those.

I was concerned with removing the half shafts and knuckles and any potential complications that might make. Hopefully you tube will give some good tips!

Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No need to remove the knuckle or axle. i used a bungee to hold it up once i had top and bottom arm off. used another bungee to hold the shock up as well.

 

[Boss0144]

What the easiest way to adjust the rear camber? I Put them on this afternoon, but my camber is still way positive. I had put a few extra turns in before I installed them, but it needs more.

Is there any 'easy' way? Can I just pull the bottom two fasteners and move the whole assembly out of the way and turn it out easily without having the whole thing fall apart on me?

I guess I just need to try it, but any advice before I do would be great. I'm done for the night, so I'll give it a go in the morning.

Thanks.

 

[Ragnar406]

What the easiest way to adjust the rear camber? I Put them on this afternoon, but my camber is still way positive. I had put a few extra turns in before I installed them, but it needs more.

Is there any 'easy' way? Can I just pull the bottom two fasteners and move the whole assembly out of the way and turn it out easily without having the whole thing fall apart on me?

I guess I just need to try it, but any advice before I do would be great. I'm done for the night, so I'll give it a go in the morning.

Thanks.

Two full turns is about 1° - I recently adjusted mine . After riding where the suspension was settled I took measurement and just adjusted 2 tuns for every degree I was off of -1°. Measurement turned out right

 

[Boss0144]

Two full turns is about 1° - I recently adjusted mine . After riding where the suspension was settled I took measurement and just adjusted 2 tuns for every degree I was off of -1°. Measurement turned out right

OK thanks - that will be helpful!

When you adjusted them, did you just remove the 2 lower bolts? Did you have to disassemble anything else? Did you loosen anything else up to make it easier?

I'm trying to imagine the process - jack the back up, pull the lower control arm bolts, jack up the knuckle to get the arm to move so I can get the joint out of the frame to turn the adjuster?

Sorry for the simplistic questions.. and thanks for the advice.

 

[Ragnar406]

OK thanks - that will be helpful!

When you adjusted them, did you just remove the 2 lower bolts? Did you have to disassemble anything else? Did you loosen anything else up to make it easier?

I'm trying to imagine the process - jack the back up, pull the lower control arm bolts, jack up the knuckle to get the arm to move so I can get the joint out of the frame to turn the adjuster?

Sorry for the simplistic questions.. and thanks for the advice.

So I had recently removed my lift and ridden for a bit to settle in the suspension. I measured the camber just below -4° and decided to put 5 full turns in each. I wanted to just remove the bottom 2 bolts but my skid plate prevented me from having enough room to drop them down so I unbolted the bottom A arms and made the adjustments.

 

[Boss0144]

So I had recently removed my lift and ridden for a bit to settle in the suspension. I measured the camber just below -4° and decided to put 5 full turns in each. I wanted to just remove the bottom 2 bolts but my skid plate prevented me from having enough room to drop them down so I unbolted the bottom A arms and made the adjustments.

OK - thanks. Maybe I'll get lucky and be able to just remove those 2 bolts.

I've got the HL lift kit and HL arms up front. So my camber was crazy bad. I'm anxious to get my tires more straight. It didn't look to bad with the stock tires, but with the 32 Terrabites, it looks silly.

I'll see how it goes tomorrow!

 

[JTW]

Yes you can just remove the bottom bolts but you may need to pull the shock bolt too.

 

[Boss0144]

Yes you can just remove the bottom bolts but you may need to pull the shock bolt too.

Wasn't a terrible job. But nothing (for me) ever goes as smooth as I'd like it to!

In the end, I tinkered around with it over the course of the weekend while stopping for frequent and sometimes long NCAA tournament breaks (Go UofM and MSU).

I got it together and had about 4 degrees positive camber. I made adjustments to both sides and did have to pull the shocks to get the lowers down to adjust. I ended up turning the adjusters farther out than I really wanted. I turned them all the way in, and then counted turns out to be consistent. I think I ended up turning them out 20 full turns! Didn't feel like there was a ton of material left threaded in. It still had some visual positive camber when I set it down, but after riding and letting is settle, it's about -1 degrees.

So next time I have a chance, I'll take a couple more turns out and hopefully get it straight. It does look a lot better with the tires nearly straight!

Thanks, Ragnar, for the approx on degrees per turn. That got me close quickly!

One question on the bushings. When I greased them, the bushings just push out. So I put them in the vise and clamped them back in. The grease came back out the check valve on the zerk fitting on 3 of 4 bushings. That bothers me a bit. The other one wouldn't stay together, so I took the fitting out, let the grease out that way, and put it back together.

I wonder if the grease is where it needs to be? I'm more use to grease coming out the other sides.....

Any thoughts?

Thanks all for the help!!

 

[Ragnar406]

Wasn't a terrible job. But nothing (for me) ever goes as smooth as I'd like it to!

In the end, I tinkered around with it over the course of the weekend while stopping for frequent and sometimes long NCAA tournament breaks (Go UofM and MSU).

I got it together and had about 4 degrees positive camber. I made adjustments to both sides and did have to pull the shocks to get the lowers down to adjust. I ended up turning the adjusters farther out than I really wanted. I turned them all the way in, and then counted turns out to be consistent. I think I ended up turning them out 20 full turns! Didn't feel like there was a ton of material left threaded in. It still had some visual positive camber when I set it down, but after riding and letting is settle, it's about -1 degrees.

So next time I have a chance, I'll take a couple more turns out and hopefully get it straight. It does look a lot better with the tires nearly straight!

Thanks, Ragnar, for the approx on degrees per turn. That got me close quickly!

One question on the bushings. When I greased them, the bushings just push out. So I put them in the vise and clamped them back in. The grease came back out the check valve on the zerk fitting on 3 of 4 bushings. That bothers me a bit. The other one wouldn't stay together, so I took the fitting out, let the grease out that way, and put it back together.

I wonder if the grease is where it needs to be? I'm more use to grease coming out the other sides.....

Any thoughts?

Thanks all for the help!!

Mine were hard to take grease at first but after a couple rides I am able to see grease coming out the ends when I put it in.

 

[snuffnwhisky]

Wasn't a terrible job. But nothing (for me) ever goes as smooth as I'd like it to!

In the end, I tinkered around with it over the course of the weekend while stopping for frequent and sometimes long NCAA tournament breaks (Go UofM and MSU).

I got it together and had about 4 degrees positive camber. I made adjustments to both sides and did have to pull the shocks to get the lowers down to adjust. I ended up turning the adjusters farther out than I really wanted. I turned them all the way in, and then counted turns out to be consistent. I think I ended up turning them out 20 full turns! Didn't feel like there was a ton of material left threaded in. It still had some visual positive camber when I set it down, but after riding and letting is settle, it's about -1 degrees.

So next time I have a chance, I'll take a couple more turns out and hopefully get it straight. It does look a lot better with the tires nearly straight!

Thanks, Ragnar, for the approx on degrees per turn. That got me close quickly!

One question on the bushings. When I greased them, the bushings just push out. So I put them in the vise and clamped them back in. The grease came back out the check valve on the zerk fitting on 3 of 4 bushings. That bothers me a bit. The other one wouldn't stay together, so I took the fitting out, let the grease out that way, and put it back together.

I wonder if the grease is where it needs to be? I'm more use to grease coming out the other sides.....

Any thoughts?

Thanks all for the help!!

It helps to loosen the a arm bolts before greasing. Some of us also ground some small grooves in the sleeve to help the grease get to the ends.

 

[Boss0144]

It helps to loosen the a arm bolts before greasing. Some of us also ground some small grooves in the sleeve to help the grease get to the ends.

Now that you say that, I recall seeing that in some other threads. That sounds like a good idea.

How did you do it? Just 1 slot down a bearing? Any pictures available?

I think I remember reports that the bushings wear sorta fast?

It would be nice to increase the longevity of the bushings if possible.

Thanks!

 

[Boss0144]

Now that you say that, I recall seeing that in some other threads. That sounds like a good idea.

How did you do it? Just 1 slot down a bearing? Any pictures available?

I think I remember reports that the bushings wear sorta fast?

It would be nice to increase the longevity of the bushings if possible.

Thanks!

 

[snuffnwhisky]

Now that you say that, I recall seeing that in some other threads. That sounds like a good idea.

How did you do it? Just 1 slot down a bearing? Any pictures available?

I think I remember reports that the bushings wear sorta fast?

It would be nice to increase the longevity of the bushings if possible.

Thanks!

I did a couple down the length and continued it against the end to help grease get to the outside of the bushing. I have a sharp cornered diamond wheel on a bench grinder I used. If you run it dry, the sleeve will almost weld itself to the bushing.

 

[Boss0144]

I did a couple down the length and continued it against the end to help grease get to the outside of the bushing. I have a sharp cornered diamond wheel on a bench grinder I used. If you run it dry, the sleeve will almost weld itself to the bushing.

I imagine you didn't slice the bushing all the way thru? Just a shallow slot? Any fear that the bushing will split where you added the slot? How deep did you make the slot? Thanks.