P1000 Removing rounded out hex drive bolt - Help!

[05Willys]

Maybe these?

 

[Admin]

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

I used the smallest ez out I had and drilled down center of bolt, it came out with a little effort

Yes,
My picture was meant to illustrate using an easy out. A set of Irwine easy out extractors (5 sizes from 1/8th ") are available and cheap at all hardware stores. Use a good drill bit and drill deep enough for the ez to get a bite.

 

[hurld]

Proper size left handed drill bit & it will thread right out.....

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[bumperm]

My next door neighbor is retired from (i.e. sold) his custom 4 WD building and mod shop. Figured I'd go over and get is opinion. He's got a full on home shop and is capable of building pretty much anything. He stopped what he was doing and took it right out. Slotted the top of the screw to a depth of almost 1/8" (the thickness of the curved top) with pointed carbide burr in a die grinder and used an impact driver to remove it screw. Said, which I already knew, the screws Honda is using are, umm, "sub par" screws (he used a different, more colorful, adjective).

 

[Jerryg]

My next door neighbor is retired from (i.e. sold) his custom 4 WD building and mod shop. Figured I'd go over and get is opinion. He's got a full on home shop and is capable of building pretty much anything. He stopped what he was doing and took it right out. Slotted the top of the screw to a depth of almost 1/8" (the thickness of the curved top) with pointed carbide burr in a die grinder and used an impact driver to remove it screw. Said, which I already knew, the screws Honda is using are, umm, "sub par" screws (he used a different, more colorful, adjective).

I was close.

 

[bumperm]

I was close.

Yes you were . And while that is normally the most expeditious approach, the depression, well or location of some of the fasteners can make that a challenge. Fortunately, the crappy steel these screws are made of is both a curse and a blessing . . . at least they are fairly easy to slot.

BTW, he also recommended the "weld-on nut" approach as the be all end all last approach.

 

[tjoreo]

Glad you got it out. I had the same trouble while trying to change the colored panels on my deluxe doors.

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[bumperm]

Glad you got it out. I had the same trouble while trying to change the colored panels on my deluxe doors.

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Me too, had 3 or 4 of them when installing the rear door storage mod. They really, seriously overtighten those fasteners. Guess with the extra pay to stay at home garbage going on, good help is hard to come by.

 

[Jerryg]

Honda has a long history of over tightening fasteners but not a long history of using s*** ones.

 

[oldfortyfive]

Honda has a long history of over tightening fasteners but not a long history of using s*** ones.

They used crap fasteners on my dirt bikes all the way back into the 70's. Still do.

 

[05Willys]

I can honestly say that I never had any fastener problems until the 90s. Have been breaking them since. My sons 2012 Recon was the worst I've ever seen. I've had to drill out and tap pretty much every rack and front bumper bolt.

 

[BrianM]

Since you weld, the good news is no matter how bad you mess it up you can always add some filler metal and re-drill and tap the hole.

 

[bumperm]

Since you weld, the good news is no matter how bad you mess it up you can always add some filler metal and re-drill and tap the hole.

True, but when plastic is involved, welding is the last ditch option, as you are gonna have some melting, even if you're ready with the spray bottle of water. And if you do decide to weld, say after breaking off an "easy out", one might as well hold a nut in place and weld into the center of the nut, welding it to what's left of the fastener. The just use the nut to remove the broken fastener.

On a side note, they've had for years, special bolt extraction electrodes for removing sub-surface broken off studs and bolts, such as sometimes occur on exhaust manifolds. They work remarkably well and are simple to use.