P1000m5 Rock Donkey v2 Long Travel

ohanacreek submitted a new Garage Item:


P1000m5 - Rock Donkey

 

[ohanacreek]

I think I want to nominate this @ohanacreek for best gadget of the week! Is there such a category? And BIG PRIZES ?

Considering it's not my Gadget I'm not going to take credit

 

[ohanacreek]

2nd attempt at powdercoat went a lot better than my first but I heated it too much before I powdered it.

The light bar is not really even noticeable from the drivers seat like the 40” amazon special was. WAY more visibility to the trail in front of the machine and more light too.

 

[GlockMeister]

2nd attempt at powdercoat went a lot better than my first but I heated it too much before I powdered it.

The light bar is not really even noticeable from the drivers seat like the 40” amazon special was. WAY more visibility to the trail in front of the machine and more light too.

View attachment 78783 View attachment 78784

Looks good! My 32in bar is starting to fog up..so gonna start looking at the RC bars.

 

[ohanacreek]

Latches installed on rear panels.

 

[BWAF]

Latches installed on rear panels.

View attachment 78794

Very nice

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

 

[ohanacreek]

Looks good! My 32in bar is starting to fog up..so gonna start looking at the RC bars.

Thanks I really like it, much better light output and nowhere near as large and in the way. Between moving the snorkel and the smaller light bar there’s way better vision over the hood, basically back to factory. On top of that it only draws about 7amps, so if I felt like rewiring I could get rid of a fused relay and run straight off switch(it’s fused)

 

[ohanacreek]

Very nice

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

Just glad someone has the idea to steal.

 

[ohanacreek]

‘Merica



Finally had a few mins to scrub her down after Coalmont. Dried her off and she’s getting parked for a few week looks like. Busy busy busy.

 

[ohanacreek]

Picked up the Rockford Fosgate PMX-0 since the Infinity was to deep to fit, sound is WAY better that the Infinity or the WS-BT-RS.

The WetSounds sub control didn’t hold up to the pressure washer so the sub control on the Fosgate is nice too.



The Rough Country bar doesn’t put noise into the electrical system but the Chinese LED pods do.

I had a set of X5’s on the radar this pushed the purchase button for me.

 

[ohanacreek]

Ended up with some time to do maintenance over the last few days.

Started at the back and changed diff fluid, added some pre-load to the Fox to account for the gear I usually carry on a trail ride, greased the rear SATV arms, sealed the beadlocks because I had a couple of slow leaks, and changed the brakes because the squealers had started. They had a few miles left but that was it.



Got to the front changed the brakes, took the tires off sealed the beadlocks, and found the SATV arms were far more loose than I thought. I had tried to move them before with the tire installed but apparently the weight was enough to keep them from shifting by hand. As soon as I went to break the caliper bolts loose the a-arm shifted, A LOT.

The hole in the frame is wallowed out on the upper drivers side, and the bolt is worn down. I think this is due to it not being tightened down enough when I installed the a-arms or the bolt possibly stretching. In addition to new upper bolts, I’m going to have find a viable solution other than larger bolts and a second $100 set of bushings.
I’ll check the bolts every ride until I’m satisfied it’s not going to repeat.

On another note the bushings don’t have very much room for grease at all.

 

[Ragnar406]

Ended up with some time to do maintenance over the last few days.

Started at the back and changed diff fluid, added some pre-load to the Fox to account for the gear I usually carry on a trail ride, greased the rear SATV arms, sealed the beadlocks because I had a couple of slow leaks, and changed the brakes because the squealers had started. They had a few miles left but that was it.

View attachment 81872 View attachment 81873

Got to the front changed the brakes, took the tires off sealed the beadlocks, and found the SATV arms were far more loose than I thought. I had tried to move them before with the tire installed but apparently the weight was enough to keep them from shifting by hand. As soon as I went to break the caliper bolts loose the a-arm shifted, A LOT.

View attachment 81875
The hole in the frame is wallowed out on the upper drivers side, and the bolt is worn down. I think this is due to it not being tightened down enough when I installed the a-arms or the bolt possibly stretching. In addition to new upper bolts, I’m going to have find a viable solution other than larger bolts and a second $100 set of bushings.
I’ll check the bolts every ride until I’m satisfied it’s not going to repeat.

On another note the bushings don’t have very much room for grease at all.

View attachment 81874

Yea, you did not have much left on the rear brakes either. That was a lot of play in those A arms. I did not really check mine but they are only 6 months old... maybe I need to go back as check

 

[ohanacreek]

Yea, you did not have much left on the rear brakes either. That was a lot of play in those A arms. I did not really check mine but they are only 6 months old... maybe I need to go back as check

They just started squealing as I was getting the trash cans before I rode at Stoney a week or so ago. I ordered them but they didn't show up for almost 2 weeks.

My a-arms got put on just before Overland last year, I had dealer "check" them when I had the clutch update done in late February since it was on a lift and they said “we can't find any slack we had a brand new one on the lift next to it getting the clutch update done and its tighter than the brand new one." I couldn't get them to shift by hand with a tire on, even with the shock off, which it was still connected in the video.

I think I am going to weld the nut to the tab, that would fix the worst of the two wear issues(its sad I had to word that differently because of JTW), and I will drill a tab to just fit the new bolt and tack that on in 4-5 places, to prevent too much heat from getting to the tab to weaken it.

 

[snuffnwhisky]

On another note the bushings don’t have very much room for grease at all.

I used the corner wheel of the bench grinder to put some lines down the inner sleeve for grease to be able to get down both sides of the bushing.

 

[ohanacreek]

I used the corner wheel of the bench grinder to put some lines down the inner sleeve for grease to be able to get down both sides of the bushing.

I left out that I slotted the inner sleeve with a Dremel wheel to allow grease to make its way to the bushings, I stopped short of the end to hopefully prevent water from getting in, in 9” of water.

Instead of UHMW I would think rubber would be a better material to absorb the energy, with the kind of abuse they take????

 

[Tramguage1]

@ohanacreek I would have thought that bolt should have had a shoulder long enough to just extend past the frame tabs. Then a washer and a nylon locking nut to secure it. The threads are messed up where it bounced is the frame tab hole correct? That bolt looks to me like the shoulder is about a 1/4 to 3/8" short.

 

[ohanacreek]

@ohanacreek I would have thought that bolt should have had a shoulder long enough to just extend past the frame tabs. Then a washer and a nylon locking nut to secure it. The threads are messed up where it bounced is the frame tab hole correct? That bolt looks to me like the shoulder is about a 1/4 to 3/8" short.

That’s what you’d think but it’s factory and just had a flanged non-nylock nut.

 

[snuffnwhisky]

I think I am going to weld the nut to the tab, that would fix the worst of the two wear issues(its sad I had to word that differently because of JTW), and I will drill a tab to just fit the new bolt and tack that on in 4-5 places, to prevent too much heat from getting to the tab to weaken it.

You can weld a heavy washer with the right size hole on the tab that way you can replace the nut.

 

[ohanacreek]

Took the front bumper off to swap the KFI winch mount out for an EMP Mount I picked up off of @my99svt at Takeover this year. (KFI is listed in buy/sell/i-wanna, you pay shipping and it’s yours). I REALLY don’t like the angle the KFI has everything sitting at the winch is not pulling from the bottom and across the shear line of the bolts. It pulls at a 45degree angle and it puts more stress on the threads and there’s a drastic angle on the line going to the fair lead hole. The EMP Mount is very similar to the KFI amount for the 700 and lines everything up almost perfectly with the fair lead hole, it gives me the warm and fuzzies that I am not going to break the winch case.

The frame cross members have bowed upwards, probably from the numerous trips up and down WidowMaker at takeover this year, and finally bowed enough the skids came out from under their cup washers on my last trip to Stony Lonesome. I am going to have to pull them down and brace them with more steel, but haven’t made it that far today.

I figured if I was crawling under the old girl and I had the skid plates off, I’d give them a good wash and change the oil and diff fluids while I had ease of access.

I had two bottles of Lucas Oil I was going to use on my truck before I sold it so I used it. I went ahead and changed ALL the oil in the engine/DCT/subtrans since it pours all over the skids with them on. I’m @90 miles short of the interval but early can’t hurt especially after long dusty days at the Takeover.

Oil looks really good in front diff, rear diff, DCT, and Engine a little dirty but no shavings.

Front

New

Rear




The sub-trans oil was much dirtier and had a good bit of metal in it. I wish I changed it again after initial 100mile service at 300 miles when I changed the engine/DCT for good measure after takeover last year.

 

[ohanacreek]

You can weld a heavy washer with the right size hole on the tab that way you can replace the nut.

I’m looking for a 10mm and a 25/64” drill bit right now to make something that is slightly thicker and tighter tolerance than any washer I can find. The threads on the upper a-arm bolt are @25/64” and the the shaft is close to 10mm.

 

[ohanacreek]

Upgraded the winch hooks after the peanut gallery (@joeymt33) complained there was no gate on them.