P1000 SATV A-Arm Install

[farmtimpioneer]

I have to look I can't remember if there is enough frame area at the top to do something like that, I think that the captured washer that is in the stock A-Arm adds to the integrity of that assembly, when it is all tightened together the washer reduces friction at the frame ear, if You could machine enough material off of the end of the upper A-Arm to add a thick washer between A-Arm and frame ear it would probably help,,,,

 

[Admin]

 

[nitzo]

I have to look I can't remember if there is enough frame area at the top to do something like that, I think that the captured washer that is in the stock A-Arm adds to the integrity of that assembly, when it is all tightened together the washer reduces friction at the frame ear, if You could machine enough material off of the end of the upper A-Arm to add a thick washer between A-Arm and frame ear it would probably help,,,,

I've got a strange idea. How about if they just made them right in the first place?

 

[nitzo]

Did I miss something?

Not a thing, you know well what goes on here.

 

[farmtimpioneer]

I've got a strange idea. How about if they just made them right in the first place?

Your asking an awful lot , does the stock A-Arms have that problem also?? It is my understanding that this is mostly a problem with Super ATV Arms ? , I did notice that the Talon A-Arms are made 4 points 4 bolts, top A-Arm has 2 bolt separate bushings,,

 

[Pilotadam]

Finally got it all installed today, what a pain in the butt. I had to press out the SATV lower ball joint so I could press in a Honda OEM. I ended up leaving the SATV Ball joint in the top arm on the right hand side. I had only installed the right side ball joints to check fit before I got too far.

I then tired to press a OEM upper ball joint into the left side and ended up messing up the rubber boot. I was using a socket because I didn't have the right size collar. So I ended up pressing the SATV Ball joint into the both upper Arms. It much easier since the rubber boot was removable.

I took a couple of pictures and measurements of the Honda OEM lower ball joint compared to the SATV Heavy Duty lower ball joint. I got roughly a 9mm difference in length.

I am still waiting to hear back from there quality Engineer to understand why there is such a difference. The top ball joints are almost the same.View attachment 173342

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So I final heard back from SATV technical support, and they tile me the lower ball joint are incorrect, and they currently don't have a fix. They want me to send them back and they are going to give a refund. At least I know have confirmation of what I thought based on comparing the two joints.

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[SuperATV]

It was kind of in between a design change. The older style was longer and had castle nuts that would be screwed down and allow for the cotter pin to be used. The newer design will use nylock nuts, and won't need the cotter pin. It'll also be a little shorter to match the stock height. The longer ones that went out with nylock nuts will still work, but they won't go down far enough to utilize the existing cotter pin hole. The newer shorter ones won't have the cotter pin hole because they'll just need the lylock nut.

 

[JTW]

It was kind of in between a design change. The older style was longer and had castle nuts that would be screwed down and allow for the cotter pin to be used. The newer design will use nylock nuts, and won't need the cotter pin. It'll also be a little shorter to match the stock height. The longer ones that went out with nylock nuts will still work, but they won't go down far enough to utilize the existing cotter pin hole. The newer shorter ones won't have the cotter pin hole because they'll just need the lylock nut.

And why the change? I’m assuming it’s cheaper to produce the new style

 

[Pilotadam]

It was kind of in between a design change. The older style was longer and had castle nuts that would be screwed down and allow for the cotter pin to be used. The newer design will use nylock nuts, and won't need the cotter pin. It'll also be a little shorter to match the stock height. The longer ones that went out with nylock nuts will still work, but they won't go down far enough to utilize the existing cotter pin hole. The newer shorter ones won't have the cotter pin hole because they'll just need the lylock nut.

Thank you for the explanation. Why is the tapered section longer? And why the change?

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[nitzo]

It was kind of in between a design change. The older style was longer and had castle nuts that would be screwed down and allow for the cotter pin to be used. The newer design will use nylock nuts, and won't need the cotter pin. It'll also be a little shorter to match the stock height. The longer ones that went out with nylock nuts will still work, but they won't go down far enough to utilize the existing cotter pin hole. The newer shorter ones won't have the cotter pin hole because they'll just need the lylock nut.

Sounds good, I'll just hang onto the long ones I have and when you get the new batch finished, ship me a set and I'll swap ya. BTW: I am using the top ones.

Thanks for helping with this.

 

[SuperATV]

And why the change? I’m assuming it’s cheaper to produce the new style

Nah, its just better with the nylock nut. Personally, (this is just my personal opinion), I'm a much bigger fan of the pinch bolt ball joints. They just seem like a tougher design. Maybe I'm wrong, but I would imagine the cotter pin hole being a weak link in the stud with the threaded design using a castle nut and cotter pin. Plus, on these machines...the cotter pin doesn't do Jack $h*!. If your castle nut would happen to back off enough to put any stress on the cotter pin, its just going to snap it like a little twig. And if it didn't...I'd imagine that would be the weak spot for the ball joint stud to break. So far, no problems with either...but I think its just a smarter and tougher design to forgo the castle nut and cotter pin (hole), and just use the nylock nut. And maybe throw a little blue loctite on there if it tickles your fancy.
Not sure about the taper height. Probably just for more surface contact for the older castle nut and cotter pin design, which was longer for the use of the cotter pin.