CID
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Honda says the '19 - '21 Talon 'learns' my driving habits and shifts accordingly. But I'm a bipolar driver, sometimes I drive like the ole guy I am
Smitty335
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Sounds like you have one confused Talon?Honda says the '19 - '21 Talon 'learns' my driving habits and shifts accordingly. But I'm a bipolar driver, sometimes I drive like the ole guy I amand sometimes I drive like my hair's on fire- how long does it take to adjust to the two different drivers - I have no idear. 🤔
CID
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That’s what makes the two of us a perfect match, Smitty. 🤪
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0860silverado
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It doesn't actually learn long term driving habits, but it WILL respond to immediate throttle inputs. If you mash the go-pedal pretty aggressively, not only will it hold the current gear to a higher RPM before shifting, it will also hold the next gear to a higher RPM even if the other side of your bipolar self kicks in and lets off the gas. It'll stay in this type of aggressive state for a few seconds after you drive easily and then it returns to it's "old-man driver" set of shifting parameters.Honda says the '19 - '21 Talon 'learns' my driving habits and shifts accordingly. But I'm a bipolar driver, sometimes I drive like the ole guy I amand sometimes I drive like my hair's on fire- how long does it take to adjust to the two different drivers - I have no idear. 🤔
Hi guys,
Just to wrap up the shifting issue - the snow has finally started to melt and I had a chance to test out the winter modifications.
I did the dual battery install using the Club kit. It worked out perfectly and all 8 auxiliary circuits, including the winch, are now on a switched 12 fuse block off the second battery. The hot 6 fuse block has the horn and cabin dome lights, running off a positive bus bar from the second battery (I use the dome light circuit to power lights in the off road tent trailer/ cook station. The 139 dB air horn can be triggered remotely from the tent, as a bear scaring device. The 12 ga is the backup system.
Anyway, back to the original shifting issue. RTR Powersports in Kamloops BC mentioned that some of the Honda quads had experienced strange shifting issues when the battery got old and lost amperage. Sure enough, the old battery had dropped to 10.6 V under load. This was my excuse to install the dual battery kit. On two 3 hour test rides with the new system, not a single problem! So changing the battery appears to have fixed the auto-to-manual shifting issue. Thank you everyone for your suggestions and input on this problem!
Just to wrap up the shifting issue - the snow has finally started to melt and I had a chance to test out the winter modifications.
I did the dual battery install using the Club kit. It worked out perfectly and all 8 auxiliary circuits, including the winch, are now on a switched 12 fuse block off the second battery. The hot 6 fuse block has the horn and cabin dome lights, running off a positive bus bar from the second battery (I use the dome light circuit to power lights in the off road tent trailer/ cook station. The 139 dB air horn can be triggered remotely from the tent, as a bear scaring device. The 12 ga is the backup system.
Anyway, back to the original shifting issue. RTR Powersports in Kamloops BC mentioned that some of the Honda quads had experienced strange shifting issues when the battery got old and lost amperage. Sure enough, the old battery had dropped to 10.6 V under load. This was my excuse to install the dual battery kit. On two 3 hour test rides with the new system, not a single problem! So changing the battery appears to have fixed the auto-to-manual shifting issue. Thank you everyone for your suggestions and input on this problem!
Thats some clean underhood wiring right there.
Glad to hear shifting problem was as simple as a battery swap.
outstanding on 3 fronts
1. u fixed it
2. u communicated the fix and didn't ghost us
3. pictures included
kudos
Atleast 4 fronts......you forgot he slipped the unnecessary part past the accounting dept.(wife) as needed to complete the job.
Haha, thanks guys!
I went a little overkill on the wiring - cut up an old 6 ga arc welder ground cable and ran a complete circular ground, connecting both battery neg terminals, both fuse block neg ground strips and finally connected to the extra factory ground cable at the winch relay. The fuse blocks are rock solid, velco'd to the air intake. Plenty of spare wire loom to lift the intake for servicing. The stinger relay fit perfectly down in the well by bending the edges of the mounting bracket up slightly and securing with two sheet metal screws. The second battery is also rock solid with an aluminum strap over the top, secured to two threaded ready rods with nuts on each side of the plastic floor. It looks cramped, but only the rear post nut needs to be removed to swing the strap out of the way, then lift out the battery. So far it looks like the system will work well. Great system info from the dual voltmeter!
One other thing - at the front end of the Honda fuse panel there is a larger black diode (see pic) There is also an unwired port which can store a spare diode? On my machine the diode was put in the storage port by mistake at the factory and therefore did nothing. I discovered that this diode is for the starter circuit. Further research showed that when the starter circuit is dropped, a momentary reverse current is generated, up to 10x the normal voltage (120V) This spike can damage electronics over time. The diode is in the starter circuit to prevent this. Don't know if any harm was done, but it is certainly working as advertised now.
I went a little overkill on the wiring - cut up an old 6 ga arc welder ground cable and ran a complete circular ground, connecting both battery neg terminals, both fuse block neg ground strips and finally connected to the extra factory ground cable at the winch relay. The fuse blocks are rock solid, velco'd to the air intake. Plenty of spare wire loom to lift the intake for servicing. The stinger relay fit perfectly down in the well by bending the edges of the mounting bracket up slightly and securing with two sheet metal screws. The second battery is also rock solid with an aluminum strap over the top, secured to two threaded ready rods with nuts on each side of the plastic floor. It looks cramped, but only the rear post nut needs to be removed to swing the strap out of the way, then lift out the battery. So far it looks like the system will work well. Great system info from the dual voltmeter!
One other thing - at the front end of the Honda fuse panel there is a larger black diode (see pic) There is also an unwired port which can store a spare diode? On my machine the diode was put in the storage port by mistake at the factory and therefore did nothing. I discovered that this diode is for the starter circuit. Further research showed that when the starter circuit is dropped, a momentary reverse current is generated, up to 10x the normal voltage (120V) This spike can damage electronics over time. The diode is in the starter circuit to prevent this. Don't know if any harm was done, but it is certainly working as advertised now.
I heard Honda has already started to implement AI in the P-1000 series. The 24 models, the "HAL-1000 series", will go a step further, protecting themselves from harm at the hands of inept or overly spirited drivers. E.g., if heading towards a deep mud hole, the machine will increase speed, unlatch it's doors and seat belts, while doing a max performance high-G turn away from the unpleasant obstacle. Occupants can check out the mud hole on their own.
G
My 2020 has a early version of this. It doesn't actually take over the control, it is just a very loud verbal warning coming from the passenger seat. Doesn't always work very well
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