Shop air plumbing

[Vikes79]

Hey all.

I’ve been working on reorganizing my shop to allow for better utilization and to make room for my side hustle.

I’ve completely relocated my 60 gallon air compressor and am trying to decide what I should plumb the shop with. With what I’ll be doing i will need very clean dry air for for atleast 1/2 of the network (hvlp plasma etc), the other side won’t matter so much (tires, air guns etc).

I already have my submicron filtration, dessicant, and compressor radiator on order…but what I’m on the fence on what to use for the network itself. I’m planning on at least 3/4” on the main line which will have a max length of about 50’ and each drop will have a port and drain valve…maybe regulator.

I don’t want to use black pipe due to contamination.

I love working with copper but it sure is expensive and time consuming.

I believe that Pex A could work as it’s in an enclosed shop…but I’ve never used it and don’t have any tools

I hear about this type system a lot but don’t know much about them overall. Not sure it’s a good fit as none of the fittings are available to me without driving a couple hours…
Maxline Pressured Leak-Proof Easy to Install Air Compressor Accessories Kit Piping System | 3/4 inch x 100 feet HDPE-Aluminum | Connects w/ any Air Compressor Hose | 100 PSI | 29 Pieces | M7500.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FKYRTU?tag=sxsweb24-20

I’m curious to what everyone is running and why? I think pex A could be cheaper….just not sure about the durability..

No…I’m not going to use PVC…

 

[WagginTail]

I'm gonna go with Pex when I get my shop built. Have a buddy that used that in his shop with no issues for 5-6 years now. It's just so easy to work with and probably the cheapest also.

 

[Remington]

No…I’m not going to use PVC…

Why not? Ive had that set up with my 2stage compressor in my shop 75’ of it for over 12yrs and no issues.
1/2” schedule 40 of course. Why? Cuz we used it in the building I was at when I was at Roush and had no issues. We also use it in some high pressure situation's in the HVAC trade, deff Cheaper than pex but depending on the application your doing pex is cheaper than copper. Personally I hate working with pex in my trade, pipe cost is average but the tool, clamps and fittings are $$. You can most certainly use the pex for air, most of the fittings are brass, Id stay away from there plastic fittings tho cuz of there 2 pice seems always seem to leak or crack when clamping. You will need spacific fittings from pex to air as well.
If that And the extra money dosnt bother you then go that rout if u like should work. Just use alot of clamps to make it look good and straight, pex likes to sag.
Good Idea to stay away from Blk pipe. Leave that for NG/LP and steamer pipe😉

 

[Vikes79]

Why not? Ive had that set up with my 2stage compressor in my shop 75’ of it for over 12yrs and no issues.
1/2” schedule 40 of course. Why? Cuz we used it in the building I was at when I was at Roush and had no issues. We also use it in some high pressure situation's in the HVAC trade, deff Cheaper than pex but depending on the application your doing pex is cheaper than copper. Personally I hate working with pex in my trade, pipe cost is average but the tool, clamps and fittings are $$. You can most certainly use the pex for air, most of the fittings are brass, Id stay away from there plastic fittings tho cuz of there 2 pice seems always seem to leak or crack when clamping. You will need spacific fittings from pex to air as well.
If that And the extra money dosnt bother you then go that rout if u like should work. Just use alot of clamps to make it look good and straight, pex likes to sag.
Good Idea to stay away from Blk pipe. Leave that for NG/LP and steamer pipe😉

Largely because of the way it fails. I’ve helped cleanup the aftermath as well.

My shop won’t be heated the system will see all the temperature extremes as well.

Still on the fence. Likely I’ll just start small with copper and just add on the system a few sticks at a time.

 

[Buggyman]

When I was working we did the shop in all copper. 2" in the ceiling and 1" drops to the machines and accessories. expensive yes but never had a leak or failure. running 2 75hp screw drive compressors. buy once cry once 🤷‍♂️. whichever route you go I hope your new side kick is a success.

 

[Jankyeye]

I used the Blue "Pex like" tubbing in my last garage. Its not the cheapest option with all the compression fittings, but was pretty easy to install. The line has a metal layer imbedded in it so its fairly stiff. Hardest part was trying to get it straight. FYI, standard pex fittings (shark-bite, etc) do not work.

Edit to add: I did a continuous loop around a two car garage with a drop in each corner so I had to add extra bits to the kit. I spent a few days chasing slow leaks but ended up just turning the air off when I was done with it. I gave the 60G compressor to my dad when I moved or I would install it again.

 

[Vikes79]

When I was working we did the shop in all copper. 2" in the ceiling and 1" drops to the machines and accessories. expensive yes but never had a leak or failure. running 2 75hp screw drive compressors. buy once cry once 🤷‍♂️. whichever route you go I hope your new side kick is a success.

On a big industrial setup yes makes sense. I’ve done similar designs on buildings. The last one I designed for a fabrication shop was a bit different in design in that one of the previous compressors failed and contaminated all the lines with oil.

For that system we ran a black iron system of a 10” main stub from two 150hp Quincy’s to the ceiling in which a 4” loop on the perimeter and 2” branches across the center of the building and connected to each 4” side where the building columns were. Idea was that when new equipment came later, hard line are was available within 20’ . I also designed it such that it was massive reserve capacity on top of the 300 gallon surge tank. All of the drops had filter regulators and sometimes dessicant tubs.

I like going with copper for its cooling properties and it’s a way to get some surge capacity that cools a bit too.

 

[Vikes79]

I used the Blue "Pex like" tubbing in my last garage. It’s not the cheapest option with all the compression fittings, but was pretty easy to install. The line has a metal layer imbedded in it so it’s fairly stiff. Hardest part was trying to get it straight. FYI, standard pex fittings (shark-bite, etc) do not work.

That sounds like a rapid air type of setup. As I understand it, it’s a pex-aluminum-pex extrusion and takes special fittings.

 

[Jankyeye]

That sounds like a rapid air type of setup. As I understand it, it’s a pex-aluminum-pex extrusion and takes special fittings.

That sounds right. Similar to what the link had. I found extra fittings at the local Rural King store.

 

[john790]

When i did my shop i went with copper i run about 150 psi.I also store air by my blast cabinet extra tank.No crud in the lines ever.

 

[Remington]

Largely because of the way it fails. I’ve helped cleanup the aftermath as well.

My shop won’t be heated the system will see all the temperature extremes as well.

Still on the fence. Likely I’ll just start small with copper and just add on the system a few sticks at a time.

Yeah if your dealing with crazy temps i can see that fo sho! Especially using CPVC which is a no no.
Good quality schedule 40 PVC from a Plumbing shop not Menards china pvc, can take temps real well. Now if you running full water pressure in them then yea the cold temps are very bad lol. But hopefully with your filtration, your keeping very little moisture out.

 

[Remington]

You can also do schedule 80
(Get it at a plumbing supplier) and you’ll be tuff as nails in any temps for air. Just food for thought.

 

[Vikes79]

Yeah if your dealing with crazy temps i can see that fo sho! Especially using CPVC which is a no no.
Good quality schedule 40 PVC from a Plumbing shop not Menards china pvc, can take temps real well. Now if you running full water pressure in them then yea the cold temps are very bad lol. But hopefully with your filtration, you’re keeping very little moisture

Yes I was thinking this way…since I’m doing heavy duty filtration and water removal up front, that should eliminate the oils making into the system. With pvc I’m worried about the -20f in the winter if I need to air up a tractor tire etc. I wouldn’t normally run it that way.

 

[Vikes79]

When i did my shop i went with copper i run about 150 psi.I also store air by my blast cabinet extra tank.No crud in the lines ever.

I’m not sure I’ll have a blast cabinet…but I know if I don’t plan for it…I’ll regret it.

I’ve done most of my blasting with one of those pressure washer attachments. Works crazy awesome on my hot water pressure washer!

 

[Remington]

Yes I was thinking this way…since I’m doing heavy duty filtration and water removal up front, that should eliminate the oils making into the system. With pvc I’m worried about the -20f in the winter if I need to air up a tractor tire etc. I wouldn’t normally run it that way.

I keep my barn @40 degrees when im not there most of the time. Sometimes its less if i shut it down or have the bays open. Never had a problem. My cabin has the same set up but with roughly 30’ and its in the sub temps till i get there and fire up the furnace. Never had the issue with splitting. But I did get the Material from my works shop that we buy at Ferguson’s its better quality and made in the USofA

 

[john790]

Out of all the tools in my shop i use my blast cabinet the most.

 

[Vikes79]

Oh my I nearly passed out from sticker shock looking at copper line last night.

For a 30’ run of 3/4 L copper with 3 drops plus connectors to my filtration it was $3 a foot for the pipe and $18 per drop (2 valves, tee, 1/2” npt port). Basically about $180 to do just the wall that my compressor is on. My shop is 30’ x 50’. 🤯🤯

I wanted to do run 3 30’ runs (2 walls and 1 in the middle….total cost in copper before taxes would be around $700 🤯🤯

Im thinking one of those 100’ 3/4” rapid air systems at $200 down the length of my shop and a few retractable 25’ hose reels is looking really smart right now…

 

[john790]

You can do what ever you want many here have their opinions myself i would stay away from iron and plastic.

 

[Prntckt]

Hey all.

I’ve been working on reorganizing my shop to allow for better utilization and to make room for my side hustle.

I’ve completely relocated my 60 gallon air compressor and am trying to decide what I should plumb the shop with. With what I’ll be doing i will need very clean dry air for for atleast 1/2 of the network (hvlp plasma etc), the other side won’t matter so much (tires, air guns etc).

I already have my submicron filtration, dessicant, and compressor radiator on order…but what I’m on the fence on what to use for the network itself. I’m planning on at least 3/4” on the main line which will have a max length of about 50’ and each drop will have a port and drain valve…maybe regulator.

I don’t want to use black pipe due to contamination.

I love working with copper but it sure is expensive and time consuming.

I believe that Pex A could work as it’s in an enclosed shop…but I’ve never used it and don’t have any tools

I hear about this type system a lot but don’t know much about them overall. Not sure it’s a good fit as none of the fittings are available to me without driving a couple hours…
Maxline Pressured Leak-Proof Easy to Install Air Compressor Accessories Kit Piping System | 3/4 inch x 100 feet HDPE-Aluminum | Connects w/ any Air Compressor Hose | 100 PSI | 29 Pieces | M7500.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FKYRTU?tag=sxsweb24-20

I’m curious to what everyone is running and why? I think pex A could be cheaper….just not sure about the durability..

No…I’m not going to use PVC…

I worked in industrial manufacturing plants before I retired. In some of the new facilities that we built, the consulting engineers specified an airline system that was made of an ABS plastic. Supposedly did not shatter like PVC can. It worked quite well and we never saw any failures of the product.

 

[oldfortyfive]

Rapidair is a pretty nice way to go.