Shop air plumbing

[Vikes79]

So to add pre tank dewatering you need something that can handle the heat and pressure of the system. Most use a transmission cooler rated for the pressure and temperature. I used this transmission cooler.

Derale 13317 Series 7000 Tube and Fin Cooler Core , Black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONRQS?tag=sxsweb24-20

As you may notice it’s only a single row tube cooler. My calculations suggested I don’t need more that this for my common as dirt 60 gallon upright Sanborn compressor. My previous photos show this too. One word of caution…I am calculating that my compressor is not running continuously…this is where more rows make sense (longer time before cooler is heat soaked).

Most tranny coolers have AN fittings and my compressor has 3/8” compression fittings. You need and adapter to make the jump. This is what i used.
CNRAQR 6AN Female Flare to 3/8" Fuel Hardline Tube Fitting Adapter Aluminum Black 2Pcs
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6H4YHLN?tag=sxsweb24-20

You will also need some aluminum tubing that can handle the pressure and temp

3/8 Fuel Line, 3003 Grade Aluminium Tubing for Brake Line, Metal Coiled Gas Line, Refrigeration [OD:3/8"][ Wall Thickness:0.035"][L:10ft]
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQR79PK1?tag=sxsweb24-20

And some sort of water separator. I chose an automatic draining one in 1/2” npt. I got 1/2 to 3/8 bushings and 3/8” npt to compression from my spare parts inventory.

NANPU Industrial Grade Heavy Duty Particulate Filter, Metal Bowl, Suitable for Paint Spray (1/2" NPT, Auto Drain)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZP6HF92?tag=sxsweb24-20

I removed the back shroud and simply zip tied the cooler to the back centered on the fan wheel.

Then I removed the pump outlet to tank aluminum line and cut one end down and rebent it carefully with my cheapie tubing bender to the outlet of my new separator which is just self tapping screwed to the pump holding bracket. The way it was is noted earlier in this thread.

Using a tubing cutter and a bender simply connect the outlet of the pump to the top of the cooler and the outlet of the cooler to the inlet of the separator and finally separator to the tank using your compression fittings.

Pressure the tank and check for leaks.

 

[Vikes79]

So I had some more time to finish my air system.

I reused my old auto drain water separator and regulator, but mounting them on the wall temporarily as I’m short a few fittings to connect my submicron filter and desiccant dryer for my plasma table.

I ran the tubing such in a C pattern that the farthest point is about 35’ from the compressor. It will be close, but I should be able to run a blast cabinet on the long run without a noticeable drop in pressure. If I decide in the future.

On the two corners of my shop I placed two of these in addition to the existing 50’ reel I already had. They seem to be really well built for China stuff.
By far less expensive than the HF ones I was considering. Easily the same quality.
VEVOR Retractable Air Hose Reel, 3/8 IN x 50 FT Hybrid Air Hose Max 300PSI, Air Compressor Hose Reel with 5 ft Lead in, Ceiling/Wall Mount Heavy Duty Double Arm Steel Reel
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C37548K6?tag=sxsweb24-20

The manual reel I placed near my garage door as it’s actually a 100’ reel but only has 50’ on it. That one will be for tires etc.

I still have to tidy up the tubing…I have found it’s super easy to zip tie to the electrical wires in my shop…

With the reels I can reach all parts of my shop with at least two hoses.