P1000 SPAL HIGH PERFORMANCE COOLING FAN 19030-HL4-A01

BigOL3

BigOL3

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I have an '18 P1KD5, that has been well burped and had ECM fan reflash. This has helped a lot with the overheating, but not completely cured it.

I know there has been plenty written and asked about the P1K cooling limitations. I have read a lot of them, from custom made radiators (have not seen the reviews after installation), to stock fan with 'on demamd' switch, to adding Spal fan. I am looking for some knowledgeable input, hopefully from some folks that have made some changes that actually cured the problem, or at least has some knowledge on such matters. 1st ...... the custom made radiator ..... that is actually more work and cost than I want to get into UNLESS that is the ONLY possible fix. 2nd ..... the on demand fan switch seems easy/cheap enough, but is that enough by itself to cure the overheating problem? 3rd ........ Spal fan ....... at this time, I am leaning more toward this, but have a few questions pertaining to the best setup for it.

1. I know some folks have spoke about replacing the stock fan with the Spal, but have not read of the results. Anyone tried it that can verify a proven benefit? Would that require removing the plastic where batteries/wiring is located and/or the complete radiator? With the improve Spal fan, would modifying the shroud still likely need to be made?

2. IIRC, some folks have suggested simply ADDING the Spal fan to the front of the radiator to push air through it, I assume with an on demand switch. Anyone tried that? Does it not interfere with stock fan pulling air? If this method was used I assume it would be much easier (as far as removing plastic body parts) than having to get to stock fan location. IF this method was used, is the same FAN 19030-HL4-A01 used and just reverse the wire to make blow rather than pull air? Any suggestion on the likelihood the front fan could be easily attached, as for room or attachment points? Shroud needed for front fan?

It is red-assing to have over heating problems, especially when holding up a group of riders that are not having the problem. I have already planned on modifying the TC bumper to allow better air flow, so while I have it off, might as well try something with improving the fan cooling. Yeah, a lot of questions I know, because I don't know the answers ....... lol
 
Bradley-Thornton

Bradley-Thornton

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I never have an issue in MS but I've been in TX and its 105deg and I'm riding in some thick sand. When I'm hard riding 25mph 4x4 mode with 32s and a IGR. It hits 3 bars but will drop when I stay still. I already have a fan blowing on my motor that keeps it about 165deg under the seat. (have a temp gauge)

If you don't have the fan blowing on the motor you can do that for like $50.


My first step is going to be try a water wetter I'm going to try VP racing. I picked it up at Tractor Supply.


Ordered a fan Switch from Hondasxs store but I really don't think it will help my idea is to cut the fan on before I start my hard riding to get a head start on the cooling of the fluid but really don't see it helping being it has a thermostat in it and fan is on above the temp needed already but for $20 and a way to cut it on at will why not.


Will post back my results of the VP water wetter.
 
BigOL3

BigOL3

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I never have an issue in MS but I've been in TX and its 105deg and I'm riding in some thick sand. When I'm hard riding 25mph 4x4 mode with 32s and a IGR. It hits 3 bars but will drop when I stay still. I already have a fan blowing on my motor that keeps it about 165deg under the seat. (have a temp gauge)

If you don't have the fan blowing on the motor you can do that for like $50.


My first step is going to be try a water wetter I'm going to try VP racing. I picked it up at Tractor Supply.


Ordered a fan Switch from Hondasxs store but I really don't think it will help my idea is to cut the fan on before I start my hard riding to get a head start on the cooling of the fluid but really don't see it helping being it has a thermostat in it and fan is on above the temp needed already but for $20 and a way to cut it on at will why not.


I have not had any problems at home with over heating. But twice in TN it has happened, once since the burping and reflashing. I have the single bilge fan under the seat to help with interior heat. Do you have the large fan under seat or just the bilge fan. I plan to also get the on demand switch from Hondasxs whether used on stock fan or Spal.
 
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BigOL3

BigOL3

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The fan mounted to the front would be counintuitve, it most likely would block more air and possibly cause the original fan to burn up.
I was wondering about that, but hoping someone actually had some experience with it. I really have no idea if room in front of radiator is even available.
 
ToddACimer

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I have the Spal radiator fan. It is a huge improvement over stock. I have the fan override switch too but I added a PV3 and programmed my fan to come on at 180° coolant temps. I went from being hot all the time to being ok with having the windshield on at 70° ambient temps. That radiator fan moves some air but the tuner definitely helps
 
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BigOL3

BigOL3

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The fan mounted to the front would be counintuitve, it most likely would block more air and possibly cause the original fan to burn up.
As a Honda Tech, can you advise if replace the stock fan would require removing the radiator and/or the plastic under the hood that contains the battery and 12V components? If so, about how much time for YOU, which would probably 3Xs as long for me ..... lol?
 
ToddACimer

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As a Honda Tech, can you advise if replace the stock fan would require removing the radiator and/or the plastic under the hood that contains the battery and 12V components? If so, about how much time for YOU, which would probably 3Xs as long for me ..... lol?
It takes about an hour. It's 5 screws in the headlights per side, 5 push pins per side, the 2 corner allen screws in the hood and 4 screws under hood, including 1 under the battery. Incan remove my grill without pulling the bumper so that saves a bit of time.


If you budgeted 2 hours you'd be safe removing the bumper and all. You're not removing the whole hood assembly but the grill really is in the way.

IMG 20200531 144801
 
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BigOL3

BigOL3

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I have the Spal radiator fan. It is a huge improvement over stock. I have the fan override switch too but I added a PV3 and programmed my fan to come on at 180° coolant temps. I went from being hot all the time to being ok with having the windshield on at 70° ambient temps. That radiator fan moves some air but the tuner definitely helps
PV3 ...... is that some sort of ECM program? Does it increase HP/torque also? Have you overheated any since replacing fan?
 
Bradley-Thornton

Bradley-Thornton

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See post 68 and 73

 
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ToddACimer

ToddACimer

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PV3 ...... is that some sort of ECM program? Does it increase HP/torque also? Have you overheated any since replacing fan?

I have not over heated this year. In the last 6 months I have added the PV3 tuner with additional fuel and different fan control. I've added a ceramic coated header, and the Spal fan. I also have a 5" Spal fan under seat.
 
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HondaTech

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As a Honda Tech, can you advise if replace the stock fan would require removing the radiator and/or the plastic under the hood that contains the battery and 12V components? If so, about how much time for YOU, which would probably 3Xs as long for me ..... lol?

I've only ever removed 1 radiator on a P1K and that was for a frame job. But I dont believes there's anyway to do so without taking the front fender off. Which is honestly not as bad as it sounds.
 
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