P1000 SuperATV power steering

[slowdryrider]

Only time mine quit is when I was running tracks and making sharp turns. in deep snow . Now with tracks I never keep a constant turning pressure on the steering wheel while turning . I say in a tight turn I'll move the steering wheel back and forth slightly so to not to make the steering shut down . BTW I got to drive a 2022 P1000 and the steering is so much lighter and easier then what my 2016 is. To bad you couldn't have bought one from the newer Hondas. Be interesting to hear if the SATV is lighter to steer then what your factory one is.

 

[ob1jeeper]

When I first got this machine, I had no reason to think poorly of the EPS, as it worked fine ... for the most part... That is, right up until it started being a royal PITA by being so frequently intermittent and un-reliable.

FWIW: None of the area Honda dealers techs I spoke with, had any solutions to offer, other than ... "I promise you, it is caused by loose battery connections, poor grounds, OR a weak battery".

Bottom line ? None of the issues they indicated were present during this past "year-or-so", and with their "hourly repair rates" becoming significantly more expensive than trying this alternative solution, I simply elected to try a less costly solution. If this works, I'll be relieved... If not It will be put up for sale, and someone else can enjoy trying to fix it.

I'll be sure to report on whatever I encounter, after I have the new steering unit installed and have used it for a bit...

Only time mine quit is when I was running tracks and making sharp turns. in deep snow . Now with tracks I never keep a constant turning pressure on the steering wheel while turning . I say in a tight turn I'll move the steering wheel back and forth slightly so to not to make the steering shut down . BTW I got to drive a 2022 P1000 and the steering is so much lighter and easier then what my 2016 is. Too bad you couldn't have bought one from the newer Hondas. Be interesting to hear if the SATV is lighter to steer then what your factory one is.

 

[ob1jeeper]

SuperATV steering kit has arrived and all hard parts are installed. Awaiting the ordered "ignition on" jumper harness (from the club store) to finish the install. Should be here this weekend.

I am not a fan of using the scotch-locks to patch into another wire as suggested by their instructions. I've seen too many causing issues with connectivity such as moisture intrusion & resulting corrosion in the wiring, poor connections, damage to the wire strands, etc. In my experience and IMHO, they are ONLY good for emergency uses to get you home, so it can be re-done correctly.

 

[slowdryrider]

SuperATV steering kit has arrived and all hard parts are installed. Awaiting the ordered "ignition on" jumper harness (from the club store) to finish the install. Should be here this weekend.

I am not a fan of using the scotch-locks to patch into another wire as suggested by their instructions. I've seen too many causing issues with connectivity such as moisture intrusion & resulting corrosion in the wiring, poor connections, damage to the wire strands, etc. In my experience and IMHO, they are ONLY good for emergency uses to get you home, so it can be re-done correctly.

I never use crimp together wire joiners etc: All my wire joins are soldered together .

 

[Scoop]

I never use crimp together wire joiners etc: All my wire joins are soldered together .

I solder most everything as well, but I did read a few times where that might not be the best way to go for applications where things get jostled and banged around a lot. Something to do with the solder joints being more susceptible to cracking or breaking. But I still do it, and I haven't had any issues over the years.

 

[WagginTail]

I never use crimp together wire joiners etc: All my wire joins are soldered together .

I solder most everything as well, but I did read a few times where that might not be the best way to go for applications where things get jostled and banged around a lot. Something to do with the solder joints being more susceptible to cracking or breaking. But I still do it, and I haven't had any issues over the years.

I've started using butt connectors that you solder and crimp. They work really well. It has the solder already inside. Just heat it with heat gun or butane torch.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

I never use crimp together wire joiners etc: All my wire joins are soldered together .

And Heat Shrink.

 

[ob1jeeper]

Got the harness, but am off today for a B-day with family @ the ball game...

 

[Vikes79]

I’m sorry to hear the issues with the factory EPS, the only time I have had problems is when the main battery is weak OR not properly recharged….lots of stops and starts with very little run time between starts.

You didn’t mention if you had tried a trickle charger or maintainer to see if situation improves?

History of rodents?

Are you sure the new battery is good? I’ve had bad batteries off the shelf before.

Have you ever drained the battery so far that it couldn’t start the motor on its own? (Essentially killing the battery capacity)


Are you doing a lot of stop and starting and maybe using the battery for something else?

I have made this mistake before, when I sprayed my property. I’d pull up to a spot, shut off the engine, and then use my spot spray gun for 10 mins or so, move the buggy and then repeat.

First thing to go was the power steering with the light on the dash.

I now leave the machine idle when spot spraying….but my sprayer still pulls hard enough that the stator cannot keep up at idle….it’s not as bad, but I still have to keep an eye on it.

I have a similar issue when plowing snow…if I’m running the heater, all my lights and running the winch hard, I’ll start having problems with the power steering if I don’t have the buggy on the maintainer before I start clearing snow, or cutting the loads before it gets that far.

 

[ob1jeeper]

- Finished the install, and have about 2 hours run-time on it with multiple shut downs to see/verify it would operate correctly every time.

- NO issues with this steering unit thus far. It works EVERY time I crank and drive away.

- Efforts seem about on par with the OEM unit, but to be fair and honest it had been SO long since it had worked reliably, I may not be the best judge of any comparisons about efforts. I am not disappointed with the efforts, and have my fingers crossed it will continue to function properly.

- Worthy of note to anyone considering this system - I was able to install this system without resorting to the full-blown disassembly described in the install manual ( Inst. Panel removal, etc., etc.)

That said, my fore-arms and the backs of my hands have paid the price of working in tight quarters. I've shed plenty of "red sweat", and have used my fair share of bandaids to keep from leaking more "red sweat" than necessary. I suppose that is just part of this growing older crap that I'll need to learn too live with...

- At the moment I am pleased, or more correctly relieved to have power steering again, and will give more updates as I get more time on the system.

- Finally, I want to give a shout-out of thanks to all who chimed in with their experiences, and thoughts on this issue. It's been a good experience to have all of your thoughts and comments.

 

[ob1jeeper]

BTW: If anyone has thoughts on a way to turn off the OEM steering fault lamp, I'm all ears. Will be going through the service manual again, and in more detail, but as yet have not found anything that speaks to that. TIA..

 

[pappyo]

I'm DONE with the OEM PS system.

Anyone have any experience with the SuperATV P1000 kit?

Better late than never?
Dependability </> Testament

I put SUPER-ATV EPS in my 2014 p700-4 <> in "Dec 2013"

Traded that 2014 - P700-4 for <> 2018 P500 in Jan 2018 <> Dealer said if it's not Honda " Take it Off"

Took the EPS off ( contacted SUPER- ATV ) ordered kit to install EPS on the New 2018 P500

Still have the 2018 P500 with EPS has always worked <> Great since day 1 <> ( the EPS unit is now almost 10 yrs. Old ).

Now have <> Honda 2022 P520 with SUPER-ATV EPS <> in the Fleet

 

[ob1jeeper]

I’m sorry to hear the issues with the factory EPS, the only time I have had problems is when the main battery is weak OR not properly recharged….lots of stops and starts with very little run time between starts.

You didn’t mention if you had tried a trickle charger or maintainer to see if situation improves?

History of rodents?

Are you sure the new battery is good? I’ve had bad batteries off the shelf before.

Have you ever drained the battery so far that it couldn’t start the motor on its own? (Essentially killing the battery capacity)


Are you doing a lot of stop and starting and maybe using the battery for something else?

I have made this mistake before, when I sprayed my property. I’d pull up to a spot, shut off the engine, and then use my spot spray gun for 10 mins or so, move the buggy and then repeat.

First thing to go was the power steering with the light on the dash.

I now leave the machine idle when spot spraying….but my sprayer still pulls hard enough that the stator cannot keep up at idle….it’s not as bad, but I still have to keep an eye on it.

I have a similar issue when plowing snow…if I’m running the heater, all my lights and running the winch hard, I’ll start having problems with the power steering if I don’t have the buggy on the maintainer before I start clearing snow, or cutting the loads before it gets that far.

I do have a trickle charger that is used whenever un-used for more than a day or two.

No rodents have ever attacked this unit.

I am POSITIVE the battery is good. It is a 9-10 month old battery and has NEVER been drained totally. Min. VDC during crank ~ 12.4 VDC. It's a DEKA ETX-18L of 340 CCA. It is the same battery that is spec'd for my Honda Goldwing 1500. It is physically about twice the size of the OEM P1000 battery. It BARELY fits... But I am pleased with the fact that I can now only have to purchase one battery size for these two units. (see attached photo of the install in my P1000-5)

I am not doing a lot of Start-Stop-Shut down cycles.

Happy to hear your unit is serving you well, which appears to be "the norm" for most P-1000 users. Sadly, I cannot say the same about the original OEM EPS unit in my 2016 P1000-5.

So far I am pleased with the Super ATV EPS system that I used.. Yesterday, as a test, I left the lights on for about 6 hours, then went out to see if it would;
A- start &
B- if the PS would work.
Happy to report that it both started easily, and the PS worked immediately...

 

[ob1jeeper]

Update: Super ATV Steering system still working like a champ.

Wanted to give a shout out to the Club Store for helping with the cost savings on it's purchase, and to give them props as EVERY item I have bought from them for this unit, has made the install process go more smoothly, and worked perfectly. Much appreciate purchasing quality products from folks who KNOW how to provide them...

KUDOS & my Thanks ! ! !

 

[Hondasxs]

Update: Super ATV Steering system still working like a champ.

Wanted to give a shout out to the Club Store for helping with the cost savings on it's purchase, and to give them props as EVERY item I have bought from them for this unit, has made the install process go more smoothly, and worked perfectly. Mush appreciate purchasing quality products from folks who KNOW how to provide them...

KUDOS & my Thanks ! ! !

Nice. Appreicate the feedback.
Should have the PS for 2023 Pioneer 700's available soon as well.

Anyone needing one. Shoot me a message.
Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[ob1jeeper]

Just an update: Two weeks in since install of the Super ATV steering kit. Not a single glitch thus far. I'm a happy camper...

 

[TripleB]

SuperATV steering kit has arrived and all hard parts are installed. Awaiting the ordered "ignition on" jumper harness (from the club store) to finish the install. Should be here this weekend.

I am not a fan of using the scotch-locks to patch into another wire as suggested by their instructions. I've seen too many causing issues with connectivity such as moisture intrusion & resulting corrosion in the wiring, poor connections, damage to the wire strands, etc. In my experience and IMHO, they are ONLY good for emergency uses to get you home, so it can be re-done correctly.

Did you actually have to take the fenders off to get the EPS unit out like the manual says?

 

[ob1jeeper]

Did you actually have to take the fenders off to get the EPS unit out like the manual says?

Sorry for the delay... Have been in Colorado's San Juan Mtns for a few weeks...

I did indeed remove the left frt fender and inner liner that covers the OEM EPS computer, which ALSO requires removal of the Lt door, but that's pretty much a breeze. I will say that the bolt head size for the door hinges had me worried, as I was afraid of snapping off a tiny bolt, as these things we're MUCH tighter than I had imagined they would be. The good news here is the bolts themselves which have 10mm head size, are nearly twice the thread diameter than what I was expecting to find. (whew)...

In the instructions you will get, they talk about the need of removing most of the inst. panel... THIS step is NOT necessary... Unless your arms are MUCH larger than mine, as I was able to get away with removal of only the left frt fender and inner liner, and the seal around the strg. column where it passes thru the I-P.

IF you decide to do as I did, I would suggest wearing long sleeve's for this though, as my fore-arms got most of the skin leaking damage, but since I'm no spring chicken any longer, my age didn't help with the scrapes and bruising which tended to leak red from time-to-time..

Hope this helps...

 

[ob1jeeper]

6 week update...

For a couple of weeks before we were in Colo Jeeping with friends for about 1 1/2 weeks, I left the P-1K-5 sitting, without being on a battery tender for a total of a day shy of 4 weeks, and today I went out with fingers crossed, to see if it would -
1- start, (and)
2- to verify the SATV EPS worked properly after a month of sitting...

Hallelujah ! ! ! This vehicle hasn't done this without draining the battery, since I began having intermittent issues with the steering nearly 3 years ago ! ! !

I am SO VERY GLAD to have the battery drain issue, AND the lack of reliable PS behind me...

 

[TripleB]

Sorry for the delay... Have been in Colorado's San Juan Mtns for a few weeks...

I did indeed remove the left frt fender and inner liner that covers the OEM EPS computer, which ALSO requires removal of the Lt door, but that's pretty much a breeze. I will say that the bolt head size for the door hinges had me worried, as I was afraid of snapping off a tiny bolt, as these things we're MUCH tighter than I had imagined they would be. The good news here is the bolts themselves which have 10mm head size, are nearly twice the thread diameter than what I was expecting to find. (whew)...

In the instructions you will get, they talk about the need of removing most of the inst. panel... THIS step is NOT necessary... Unless your arms are MUCH larger than mine, as I was able to get away with removal of only the left frt fender and inner liner, and the seal around the strg. column where it passes thru the I-P.

IF you decide to do as I did, I would suggest wearing long sleeve's for this though, as my fore-arms got most of the skin leaking damage, but since I'm no spring chicken any longer, my age didn't help with the scrapes and bruising which tended to leak red from time-to-time..

Hope this helps...

I took it out with only removing the battery and the rubber around the steering wheel. Tore my arms all to s***. Had to get my wife to help me install the new eps unit. It's fixed for now lol.