TxDoc
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Hope this might help someone
Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
BigOL3
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
CID
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
I think it was PaulF who had heard that the adhesive Honda used to secure the vent line to the nipple in the frame tube was sloppily applied and glued the end of the hose shut. My left front diff seal was leaking and I tried to remove the hose from the nipple and couldn't, it was stuck TIGHT. Since I didn't want the hose falling off unnoticed I left it alone, removed the hose at the diff and hit it with the air hose.
What I think I noticed (impossible to really know), it held pressure for a moment and then started to flow air. Although I still have a slight drip, it has lessened considerably. The unknown now is, did I just loosen the glue debris which is now acting as an intermittent stoppage.
Bottom line for me, I need to extend the vent, replacing the entire hose instead of using a nipple to extend the stock hose.
What I think I noticed (impossible to really know), it held pressure for a moment and then started to flow air. Although I still have a slight drip, it has lessened considerably. The unknown now is, did I just loosen the glue debris which is now acting as an intermittent stoppage.
Bottom line for me, I need to extend the vent, replacing the entire hose instead of using a nipple to extend the stock hose.
Not sure what you mean, he is testing the factory hose in the video. He removed the stock hose from the front diff and applied vacuum and it held (it should not). That shows that there is a plug somewhere in the vent line and it has been verified MANY times that the plug is at the nipple that goes into the frame (too much glue applied at the factory). Not sure why the dealers are not aware of this, it has been discovered by many owners and unplugging the nipple has proven to slow and even stop seal leaks (both front and rear). Honda just keeps replacing seals, they have even released an "updated" seal and not having the dealers check this simple problem. Mind boggling!!!
Here is how to check it...
B
I need a little help here. Isn't he hooking up the vacuum line to the ONLY vent line, thus stopping any venting. Not trying to argue about plugged lines, but doesn't that line need to vent to outside and the vac pump would be blocking it? Or are there multiple vent lines? IN order for the vac pressure to drop, wouldn't the air have to enter passed the seals? Just asking, been confused before.
CID
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
He's hooking up the vacuum pump to the diff end of the vent hose (remove from diff here & #52), it should be open into the frame but it isn't, it's holding vacuum because the vent hose is plugged at the nipple #36. I don't think it's plugged at #52 because that end isn't glued in place, it's held by that small wire clamp.
No. You misunderstand the test. Remove the vent line from the DIFFERENTIAL, not the frame. If you have vacuum at the diff end of the hose, the vent is blocked.
Hondasxs
Club Founder
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
I need to look at this... and work on turning it into a PSA post.
This exact thing happened with the pioneer when we switched to bellows for a short time.
The seal is not "leaking" for say, the oil is being pushed out under pressure. The diff is not designed to hold pressure.
This exact thing happened with the pioneer when we switched to bellows for a short time.
The seal is not "leaking" for say, the oil is being pushed out under pressure. The diff is not designed to hold pressure.
Last edited:
CID
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
advertisement
Hondasxs
Club Founder
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
No.
Their intended purpose requires the use of pressure. Positive or negative as there fuctuon is to reduce it... not eliminate it.
We experimented with them on the Pioneers and had results like the Talons are having.
Oil and even seals were being pushed out. Differential oil also seemed to become contaminated more with their use.
I do not recomend bellows over a neutral pressure breather tube.
BigOL3
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
He stated he took the stock hose and hooked it BACK on. I assumed doing that would have insured it was not plugged by glue???
Last edited:
You may want to listen to it again. He hooked the hose back to the fitting in the FRAME, not the diff. The end of the hose where the pump is hooked is the end that goes on the diff. He is pulling vacuum with the hose connected to the nipple inserted in the frame. That plastic nipple on his machine is glued shut and will cause the diff to pressurize when it gets hot.
Does that vacuum hose have to be plugged into the frame like that or can it just be looped and tied up high some where?
CID
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
The stock location (into the frame) is a pretty good location unless you're in a much wetter environment, IMO but many guys extend it to a higher and dryer location.
I took my air compressor, set at 100 pounds, after mine again. That blew the hose off the front frame nipple which let me push a small drill bit (by hand) through the nipple, guaranteeing that it's completely open. I also checked the rear diff vent and it's open. I ride in a pretty dry environment but may extend both vents in the future, if I get bored. I'm not sure if I'll extend the front one up behind the dash or if I'll go higher and run it to the top of the ROPS which is probably overkill for my riding areas. If you ride the Mud Nats, run it as high as possible.
Talon abuse starts at 22:50
If that wasn't ugly enough for you, here's abuse to the power of 10.
Thanks CID, I will do what you did with the drill bit and make sure that line is venting.The stock location (into the frame) is a pretty good location unless you're in a much wetter environment, IMO but many guys extend it to a higher and dryer location.
I took my air compressor, set at 100 pounds, after mine again. That blew the hose off the front frame nipple which let me push a small drill bit (by hand) through the nipple, guaranteeing that it's completely open. I also checked the rear diff vent and it's open. I ride in a pretty dry environment but may extend both vents in the future, if I get bored. I'm not sure if I'll extend the front one up behind the dash or if I'll go higher and run it to the top of the ROPS which is probably overkill for my riding areas. If you ride the Mud Nats, run it as high as possible.
Talon abuse starts at 22:50
If that wasn't ugly enough for you, here's abuse to the power of 10.
D
I am the one who made the video - I was in the midst of running the new vent when I thought, I should video and post my findings to share what I found. So i re-connected the factory vent line to the fitting on the frame, then re-connected the MightyVac to the diff-end of the line.
I have since pulled the fitting off the frame and it was plugged all the way thru with RTV / Silicone. Ran a small allen wrench thru it and it would be good to use now.
I have since pulled the fitting off the frame and it was plugged all the way thru with RTV / Silicone. Ran a small allen wrench thru it and it would be good to use now.
CID
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Thank you, it was an excellent teaching moment - it explained the problem perfectly. 👍
D
Well I had multiple people call me out on the thread and via messenger that I was doing it wrong. That I was putting vacuum on the diff, and not on the frame vent.
Thought it was pretty clear, but I will think twice before I post much again lol
advertisement
Similar threads
- CottonwoodBob
- General Talon 1000 Discussion 2 3
