This is what a broken drive shaft looks like..

J

JTW

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So I finally got around to inspecting the Moab damage resulting from my attempt at the double whammy in the video @Hondasxs posted.
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0B78DBEA B943 426C BC4D 1F82F50F3E6F

Kind of a pita.. everything spins ok. I had a b**** of a time trying to get it out with the axles still in. Ended up having to pull them and unbolt the diff. Then the shaft splines were stuck in the collar and I had to leave a magnet on it to pull it out.
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But it’s better than it could have been
 
J

jmcampbell54

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Has one of these ever broken before? Do you think having the front diff locker contributed to the drive shaft failure? More stress on the drive train causing shearing of the output shaft gearing?

ETA: I haven’t seen the video, could you post a link to it here so it’s associated with the driveshaft failure.


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J

JTW

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I was never in diff lock.
Besides.. This was the shaft to the rear wheels.. it broke behind the splines right where it goes into the rear diff. First one I’ve heard of and it wasn’t in the shear point on the shaft either.. so that’s odd.
 
DG Rider

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I was never in diff lock.
Besides.. This was the shaft to the rear wheels.. it broke behind the splines right where it goes into the rear diff. First one I’ve heard of and it wasn’t in the shear point on the shaft either.. so that’s odd.
What size tire you running again?
 
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lee

lee

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First one I’ve heard of and it wasn’t in the shear point on the shaft either.. so that’s odd.

I dunno, shaft broke inside the rear diff flange so the end of the shaft wasent flopping around tearing stuff up.
You going to take it in to see if the extended warranty will cover it?:D
 
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J

JTW

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I dunno, shaft broke inside the rear diff flange so the end of the shaft wasent flopping around tearing stuff up.
You going to take it in to see if the extended warranty will cover it?:D
Exactly... had me nervous if it was shaft or pinion but all is well. The boot and flange kept it in place rather well actually.

Lmao.. $86 part. I think I’m coming out ahead. The last item I tried to warranty. (Sheared axle shaft from last overland) They completely ignored my warranty request and never did anything about it. And that was under the first year factory warranty.
 
J

JTW

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Annnnnd we’re back in business..

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It’s really not too bad.. go ahead and pull the wheels and both rear axles.. The diff has 3 bolts holding it. Pull them (clean them and grease). Pull off the gas strut that holds the bed up 12mm. And slide the diff back. The new shaft assembly is already put together and ready to go. Just feed the shaft back in and align the front spendles. Then move the diff back into place while feeding the splines into the pinion. Stick a bolt through the diff to hold it in place and then line up the rest of the holes. And make sure your shaft is feeding properly. At this point it would be easier if you have an extra set of hands to hold a ratchet with an extension and 14mm in the bolt heads while you tighten the nuts on the diff. There is a rear boot that goes over the collar around the diff. A pick will make it easier to feed the boot up over the collar and set it in place. There is an rubber band (o-ring) that holds the boot in a grove. Once you get it on and in the right spot you’re good to start putting the axles back in. I only had to pull the axle nut and upper a arm bolt by the hub. Once they’re back in, I put the bed strut back on. Then, just mount your wheels and tires and you’re done.
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Out with the old and in with the new..
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joeymt33

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Did you happen to replace the pinion seal while you were in there?
 
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Tramguage1

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Is there a good place between the trans and the rear pinion to maybe install an e- brake manual caliper? If there is a a good location, could you mic the OD of the drive shaft at that point?
 
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J

JTW

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Is there a good place between the trans and the rear pinion to maybe install an e- brake manual caliper? If there is a a good location, could you mic the OD of the drive shaft at that point?
I’ll look.. but how would you intend on attaching the caliper?
 
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