P1000 Torque wrench recommendations

[Scoop]

Found a couple of threads via 'SEARCH', but nothing definitive and nothing recent.

Recommendations for good 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches?

I have a 3/8" Tekton that's good for 10-80 ft-lb. I've been using it mostly for the bead lock bolts lately. What I don't like about is it seems like you can torque a bolt to, say, 23#, then put the wrench right back on it and it will tighten even further. Seems like the tolerances are somewhat wide. Or maybe my using one only 5 times a year = I don't really understand that's how they all work.

I don't really have a need for a 1/2 drive torque wrench, other than lug nuts and a few other bolts that are right around the 80 ft-lb range, but I know when you use any torque wrench at the lower or upper end, it can be unpredictable.

I don't really want to drop $400+ on Snap-on or other high end stuff, as I don't use it all THAT much.

For the most part, I don't use torque wrenches. I've been wrenching so long, I know when things are "right". But for something like bead lock wheels that have elevendy hundred bolts and having them all reasonably close to one another can mean the difference between leaking or not leaking, I'm willing to put a torque wrench on there.

Dial torque wrenches more accurate than click-style wrenches? I've heard that a few times as well.

Appreciate any input.

​

 

[CID]

I stumbled on a pair of AC Delco digital torque wrenches for ~$200. If I wasn't well north of 70, I'd buy them.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM601-34-Digital-Torque-Notification/dp/B08V8KFC26/?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[Remington]

My 3/8 drive is a Craftsman Ive had for years that also does Inch pounds. My 1/2” and 3/4” drives are Mac tools Ive also had for years when I worked at Roush both are click style. Thats all I like. Im an old screwool mechanic. One things fo sho is to get them calibrated every year. Digital or click style. Makes a difference. For the record neither one of mine were never really out of calibration when the truck had them but I did it anyway. Cuz that one time mmmm🤔 🤣

 

[Scoop]

My 1/2” and 3/4” drives are Mac tools Ive also had for years when I worked at Roush

Have you paid them off yet? LOL. J/K. Thx.

 

[Scoop]

I stumbled on a pair of AC Delco digital torque wrenches for ~$200. If I wasn't well north of 70, I'd buy them.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM601-34-Digital-Torque-Notification/dp/B08V8KFC26/?tag=sxsweb24-20

Reviews on Amazon seem to lean towards the negative - numerous reasons.

 

[Remington]

Have you paid them off yet? LOL. J/K. Thx.

Haha yup. They were pricey at the time fo sho. Thank god we owned the Mac truck. Payments were taken out of my check whatever way i wanted it to interest free

 

[Robobrainiac]

My at work torque wrenches are snap-on techangle. My at home wrenches are Pittsburgh. I may get some "commentary guidance" for this statement but in my experience it is more important that the tool evenly and consistantly torques the same across the bolts rather than the specific "number" you have the tool set to. That is a concept I was taught by fellow technicians who have many ASE certificates and close to retirement years of experience.

If the tool is as you stated not consistant than it most likely has a wide tolerance. When I made my big wrench money purchases it was based solely on the terms that snap-on had the tightest tolerance of the three tool truck brands. GM requires many head bolts to be set to a certain ft lb followed by a certain degree turn of the bolt afterward. Many times on the vehicle it is difficult to swing the torque wrench and keep track of the degrees. That is why I chose the snap-on tool. It keeps track of the degree as you ratchet thru the torque sequence.

I like digital wrenches for the fact that you can see the torque number versus twisting on it waiting for a click that can potentially push past the actual torque setting. I would recommend staying at 3% or less for accuracy. Gearwrench makes some decent digital wrenches that won't break the bank.

Hopefully I have helped

 

[Robobrainiac]

I would like to add that from what I understand there is a "scientific" nitty gritty side of bolt torquing. Once the bolt is set in proper sequence if you return back to that bolt after your sequence is done it may re-torque differently based on thread stretch as well as plane deflection set during the torque sequence. That is generally why you set the torque and follow procedural sequence. If you repeat past the sequence you may find you could go "slightly tighter" the third or fourth go around and then you are left asking yourself "what the heck it just keeps getting tighter". Then later in life if you attempt to remove those bolts you will find they are potentially over tight and now you are cursing wondering why the 60ft lb bolt won't come out when it wasn't that tight when it went in.

I am not overly scientific rather than this is what I was taught. I have no certificates in this kind of thing. This is why there are torque procedures. I do know from experience that reality tends to bend these rules slightly. No one wants beadlocks to come lose 100 miles from now and it would not be surprising to me if they are lose.

 

[Hondasxs]

I would like to add that from what I understand there is a "scientific" nitty gritty side of bolt torquing. Once the bolt is set in proper sequence if you return back to that bolt after your sequence is done it may re-torque differently based on thread stretch as well as plane deflection set during the torque sequence. That is generally why you set the torque and follow procedural sequence. If you repeat past the sequence you may find you could go "slightly tighter" the third or fourth go around and then you are left asking yourself "what the heck it just keeps getting tighter". Then later in life if you attempt to remove those bolts you will find they are potentially over tight and now you are cursing wondering why the 60ft lb bolt won't come out when it wasn't that tight when it went in.

I am not overly scientific rather than this is what I was taught. I have no certificates in this kind of thing. This is why there are torque procedures. I do know from experience that reality tends to bend these rules slightly. No one wants beadlocks to come lose 100 miles from now and it would not be surprising to me if they are lose.

I've said this too. Also there is a HUGE difference between a NEW and CLEAN bolt and bolt hole vs a used one one covered in oil.

And exactly why I highley recomend NOT using a torque wrench on oil filter bolts.

You cant chase the "click" but so much. You'll find a pop.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[CID]

I've said this too. Also there is a HUGE difference between a NEW and CLEAN bolt and bolt hole vs a used one one covered in oil.

And exactly why I highley recomend NOT using a torque wrench on oil filter bolts.

You cant chase the "click" but so much. You'll find a pop.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

I agree completely. I was about 8 when my Dad told me - "Pay attention, you can feel it seat, just a few degrees past that." I've used my torque wrist ever since, critical assemblies excepted.

I don't like torque wrenches on small bolts because they're too long (the wrench), you have NO FEEL of what's really happening until the 'pop'.

Wrench sets are different lengths for a reason.

 

[Robobrainiac]

I've said this too. Also there is a HUGE difference between a NEW and CLEAN bolt and bolt hole vs a used one one covered in oil.

And exactly why I highley recomend NOT using a torque wrench on oil filter bolts.

You cant chase the "click" but so much. You'll find a pop.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

I agree completely. I was about 8 when my Dad told me - "Pay attention, you can feel it seat, just a few degrees past that." I've used my torque wrist ever since, critical assemblies excepted.

I don't like torque wrenches on small bolts because they're too long (the wrench), you have NO FEEL of what's really happening until the 'pop'.

Wrench sets are different lengths for a reason.

View attachment 394409

These are all great points!

If you need to install a duramax crank bolt at 285ft lbs a 44" ratchet helps

 

[Scoop]

Thank you all for all the excellent input. It pretty much goes in line with what I've experienced and what I've read/seen/heard from others.

@Robobrainiac and @Hondasxs, very valid points on the "torque the same bolt a second time" as well as new vs used/dirty. FWIW, I did not/do not re-torque them after finishing the torque sequence (e.g., recommended pattern by the wheel manufacturer). As soon as I did it on the first bolt on the first wheel, I think I realized that would be bad. So I torqued them as directed and that was it.

This is my first set if beadlocks. I went from one leaky tire to three. Tried some bead sealer with the first but to no avail.

When two more started airing down, I realized a few things:

One, I need to retorque more frequently at first. When I started doing them again yesterday, there were some really loose bolts! The 2nd and 3rd tires were fine for our two TN trips, and only AFTER did they start leaking. I am attributing that to loose bolts and my own failure to properly maintain.

Two, I think the tolerance on my Tekton is wider than I expected. I think it "hits the click" before the actual torque is reached. After I first got my new tire/wheel set, I pulled the core and removed all the ring bolts. I reinstalled them and torqued in the recommended pattern to 10 ft-lb, then when done, torqued to 20 ft-lb. Yesterday, I went ahead and torqued to 23 ft-lb on the wrench, and it just looked/felt better. I was able to see the ring seat and compress the tire better without anything seeming "too tight".

I checked/set pressure in all five after torquing like 125 bolts 😫. I'll check them this FRI before we leave for @ @Remington's place on SAT AM and hope they are doing OK.

I know certain tires (especially these Aramid 10-ply Terrabites) on certain beadlocks will leak and they must be regularly maintained and torqued. I don't mind the time & effort. I just need to make sure the TOOLS I'm using are both accurate and consistent.

 

[Hondasxs]

Oh.. lord... Beadlocks.
Ya, I might have torqued my first set, Second and third time I did not... I just set my small driver to an acceptable similar level and knocked them out.

 

[Robobrainiac]

Thank you all for all the excellent input. It pretty much goes in line with what I've experienced and what I've read/seen/heard from others.

@Robobrainiac and @Hondasxs, very valid points on the "torque the same bolt a second time" as well as new vs used/dirty. FWIW, I did not/do not re-torque them after finishing the torque sequence (e.g., recommended pattern by the wheel manufacturer). As soon as I did it on the first bolt on the first wheel, I think I realized that would be bad. So I torqued them as directed and that was it.

This is my first set if beadlocks. I went from one leaky tire to three. Tried some bead sealer with the first but to no avail.

When two more started airing down, I realized a few things:

One, I need to retorque more frequently at first. When I started doing them again yesterday, there were some really loose bolts! The 2nd and 3rd tires were fine for our two TN trips, and only AFTER did they start leaking. I am attributing that to loose bolts and my own failure to properly maintain.

Two, I think the tolerance on my Tekton is wider than I expected. I think it "hits the click" before the actual torque is reached. After I first got my new tire/wheel set, I pulled the core and removed all the ring bolts. I reinstalled them and torqued in the recommended pattern to 10 ft-lb, then when done, torqued to 20 ft-lb. Yesterday, I went ahead and torqued to 23 ft-lb on the wrench, and it just looked/felt better. I was able to see the ring seat and compress the tire better without anything seeming "too tight".

I checked/set pressure in all five after torquing like 125 bolts 😫. I'll check them this FRI before we leave for @ @Remington's place on SAT AM and hope they are doing OK.

I know certain tires (especially these Aramid 10-ply Terrabites) on certain beadlocks will leak and they must be regularly maintained and torqued. I don't mind the time & effort. I just need to make sure the TOOLS I'm using are both accurate and consistent.

Totally understand. I hate torquing my beadlocks. It takes forever. I have not had loss of air with my vision wheels and intimidator tires. I had not originally put that much thought into it but I see others have issues with different combinations.

 

[Scoop]

Oh.. lord... Beadlocks.
Ya, I might have torqued my first set, Second and third time I did not... I just set my small driver to an acceptable similar level and knocked them out.

That may end up being my modus operandi soon ... 😆

 

[Remington]

Oh.. lord... Beadlocks.
Ya, I might have torqued my first set, Second and third time I did not... I just set my small driver to an acceptable similar level and knocked them out.

Little bit of blue lock tight is your friend with them puppys

 

[Phantomhunter1]

I agree with @Remington. I get mine checked/calibrated on the Snap On truck each year. Have 3/8" and 1/2" varations. All of my ft/lb and in/lb torque wrenches have always been right on. I think if you're set on getting one it's one of buy once, cry once scenarios.

 

[Scoop]

Little bit of blue lock tight is your friend with them puppys

Instead of anti-seize? I Loc-Tite everything, but didn't think that would be good if I'm *supposed* to be checking torque at various intervals.

 

[Scoop]

I agree with @Remington. I get mine checked/calibrated on the Snap On truck each year. Have 3/8" and 1/2" varations. All of my ft/lb and in/lb torque wrenches have always been right on. I think if you're set on getting one it's one of buy once, cry once scenarios.

With most things, that's what I do. But $450+ that I'll likely only use to torque beadlocks? That might be overkill. But thank you for the reminder!

 

[Robobrainiac]

With most things, that's what I do. But $450+ that I'll likely only use to torque beadlocks? That might be overkill. But thank you for the reminder!

I agree with this