P1000 Trailering with Honda soft upper doors

[tincangob]

I have the Honda glass windshield, Honda soft rear panel and Honda soft uppers. I haul it 60 to 70 MPH with no damage YET. I stress YET. There is a gap between the roof and the rear panel that seems to let air blow in. The uppers seem to bulge out. The Gen 2 upper panel clips keep it from pushing out and getting any air in that way and doing real damage. I am sure the tag is on there just as a cover their butt. Mine seems to haul just fine.

I have the soft upper doors on my P3 and I bought a heavy-duty length, maybe 12' long, of bungie cord on Ebay or Amazon. It is about 1/2 inch in diameter, and I wrap it around the doors about in the middle of the windows. I wrap it around the entire top of my P3, but the P5 may be a different challenge. I have trailed it at 60 mph without problems, but without the bungee the windows bulge out and catch the wind. I do remember the air problem is lessened if my rear window is left open or closed (I don't remember which way is better, but it significantly affects the air problem.) I would guess the rear window should be open. It only takes me a few minutes to put the bungie cord on once you establish what length to cut it. If the windows do catch the air, I think they could be torn up easily.

 

[Admin]

 

[1BadDart]

I have hauled my P1000 with the soft doors many times. My trailer is a 6 X 10 tilt and I have to haul my Pioneer backwards. It has the first gen soft doors, two piece hard coat front window and the hard rear panel. My soft doors came with velcro on top and a piece that tapes to the top of the roll bar. After loading I'll hook the velcro on the passengers side and open the zipper about 8". From the outside I'll fasten the velcro on the drivers side and zip the window up all but the last 8" or so. By leaving part of the window unzipped it relieves some of the pressure that builds up inside while towing. My thoughts anyway.

 

[NPN]

I have the Honda brand soft doors on a P500 and at highway speeds they also push outward. I run a ratchet strap diagnally across the outside to support them. I run the strap through a pool noodle too. I suspect that the flimsy plastic window will fatigue while flapping all the time and I am in -20C weather.

 

[The Welder]

I have the soft doors and trailered the 700-4 deluxe on an elk hunt. No problems at all. However, I took advice from a buddy who has the 1000. He damaged his doors trailering it (he has enclosed trailer now). He told me to run some ratchet straps around the doors and cinch her down. Everything was fine except we never got an elk lol

 

[RFelder]

Where can I get a glass windshield for a p500?

 

[Alaska350]

Just unzip the windows and roll them up. 30 seconds each and no worries.

Check the pics I posted. My window zipper doesn’t go down far enough to use the button strap.

 

[Alaska350]

I roll down , and secure the side windows , and back soft window , when trailering . That allows air to pass through the cab without causing the doors to flex outward .

This won’t work for me as I have a rear canopy on my Pioneer.

 

[wolf359]

Check the pics I posted. My window zipper doesn’t go down far enough to use the button strap.

I didn't think it would either at first, but it does.........

 

[Alaska350]

I didn't think it would either at first, but it does.........

View attachment 309097

dang, I didn't want to force it considering what they cost. I give that a try until I can get the zippers modified. thanks.

 

[05Willys]

I was towing it on my trailer at 65 mph with my Tahoe. I do have the door frame groove clip things installed backwards because my doors didn't seem to want to shut easily so I just thought the instructions were backwards but apparently not judging by other guys who installed them the right way. I will for sure flip these around but still will remove the upper doors when towing to avoid the any stretching of the clear plastic or panel. They clearly had a lot of positive pressure inside them judging by how they puffed up......maybe it was the way the wind came off a SUV verses a truck who knows but for the 600 bucks they cost its just easier to spend the 30 seconds to remove them instead of damaging them for now. I did try this will my rear sliding window closed, half open, and full open without any change. I do plan on taking them to a shop to have the zippers lowered all the way down so my window can unzip all the way so I can actually use the button strap.....right now I cant.

First pic is above user with clip installed the right way.
Second pic show how far the window unzips making the button strap useless.
Third pic shows how the zipper doesnt go all the way down which I will have modified so it does.

View attachment 308722 View attachment 308723 View attachment 308724

If you roll the window tightly, you can use the button strap. It pulls the middle down and makes the opening a little bigger. Don't have a pic right now but if I think about it this weekend I'll roll mine and post it. Well, if I would read a little more before I posted this, I would have seen the pic. 🤷‍♂️

 

[MrRemote]

I have the Honda glass windshield, Honda soft rear panel and Honda soft uppers. I haul it 60 to 70 MPH with no damage YET. I stress YET. There is a gap between the roof and the rear panel that seems to let air blow in. The uppers seem to bulge out. The Gen 2 upper panel clips keep it from pushing out and getting any air in that way and doing real damage. I am sure the tag is on there just as a cover their butt. Mine seems to haul just fine.

You could stuff a foam noodle in that space to stop air flow or water from entering between the roll bar and the roof. 👍

 

[Wygeargeek]

Note the hooks on the upper front and rear corners of my cab. A bungee with pipe insulation wrapped with duct tape around it is stretched between the hooks, firmly securing the upper half of the doors. I do not have a photo available of the bungee in place at this time but if there is interest I will try to get one later.

 

[Alaska350]

Note the hooks on the upper front and rear corners of my cab. A bungee with pipe insulation wrapped with duct tape around it is stretched between the hooks, firmly securing the upper half of the doors. I do not have a photo available of the bungee in place at this time but if there is interest I will try to get one later.

View attachment 309128 View attachment 309129

great idea!

 

[rd7fox]

I have one of the first P500s. I bought the hard windshield and top, but the fabric upper doors and back cover.
At 45mph the passenger door sprung out and had to be replaced. Can't buy one door. I had to buy both doors. Another $440 back then. I'm not risking that again.
I now put a permanent soft tie on either end of the door and connect them with a cam buckle strap before hauling the P500 anywhere.

On a side note, why can Honda build cars and trucks with doors but they can not figure out how to put a decent enclosed system on a side by side? (esp the P500) I understand the cost issue, but their competition has figured it out better than Honda has.

 

[1damworker]

i trailer my p500 with the soft doors a lot. no problem as i only drive 55 mph. nd windshield is closed

 

[Zaldan]

I bungee doors together wrapped around gun rack to take slack out of bungee . Put eyelet in tab to help with fraying been like this for 2 years now . Been on countless trips . There is some billowing but nothing to be worried about

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