Is the blue light on the isolator supposed to stay on? My machine has been off for over an hour and it is still showing a blue light. Do I need to worry about this draining down my battery?
P1000 True am isolator blue light staying on?
- Thread starter Rangejunkie
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Never mind guys. Once the battery drains down to 12.9v the isolator opened up. I should have googled it before I posted a question. BTW the website search didn't bring up but a handful of results before I posted.
Hondasxs
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Thanks for the post. Hopefully it will show up on searches.
I sell these and get several questions a month about this. I even had to build 1 guy a switch so he would STFU.
On my rig. It's set just so and the blue light shines through the shifter holes. I put electrical tape on it. Out of sight out of mind.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I sell these and get several questions a month about this. I even had to build 1 guy a switch so he would STFU.
On my rig. It's set just so and the blue light shines through the shifter holes. I put electrical tape on it. Out of sight out of mind.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Oh wow, well in the instructions it says to turn the lights on, but that wasn't working so I used my winch. I'll make another post for the process I used to test and verify mine was working if you would like.
Well just for the sake of information. My winch is connected to my auxiliary battery.
After I followed the manufacture directions for installation (and yes the little black wire from the true am isolator needs to be connected to a ground) I cranked the machine up. The blue light came on. I measured the voltage both main and auxiliary batteries had 13v. I turned the machine off and operated the winch. It drew down the batteries to 12.9v on aux battery and 12.8v on main battery, and the blue light went off. This let's you know that the isolator is working and you cannot draw from the main battery any longer. As long as both batteries are above the preset voltage 13 v in my case) the isolator will stay closed, once the main battery drops below the preset voltage the isolator opens separating the batteries.
After I followed the manufacture directions for installation (and yes the little black wire from the true am isolator needs to be connected to a ground) I cranked the machine up. The blue light came on. I measured the voltage both main and auxiliary batteries had 13v. I turned the machine off and operated the winch. It drew down the batteries to 12.9v on aux battery and 12.8v on main battery, and the blue light went off. This let's you know that the isolator is working and you cannot draw from the main battery any longer. As long as both batteries are above the preset voltage 13 v in my case) the isolator will stay closed, once the main battery drops below the preset voltage the isolator opens separating the batteries.
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906UP
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I just searched this on google and the forum was the first response that showed up.
Just finished up the #T1KX wiring this afternoon and saw the light, wasn't sure what was going on so I disconnected the batteries until I could find out what was going on.
Hondasxs
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If you have the kit with the dual volt meter and relay, then you can use the ground trigger off that to control the isolator so it only works with key-on.I just searched this on google and the forum was the first response that showed up.
Just finished up the #T1KX wiring this afternoon and saw the light, wasn't sure what was going on so I disconnected the batteries until I could find out what was going on.
T
Mine is hooked up to the key but the light still stays on. Doesn’t the key just control the meter?
CID
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Yes butt - If the blue light staying on 'bothers' you, you can wire the True isolator's small ground wire to the same ground that controls the dual VM; now when you turn the key off, the True isolator's blue indicator LED loses its ground too and it will shut off immediately.
Cool idea there - @Hondasxs 👍
If your using the relay that came with the kit Key on power controls the relay that provides the ground for the volt meter. Use the extra green wire to ground the isolator and it will go off with key.
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Keep in mind, if the isolator is only active with key on, a battery tender will only charge the battery it’s connected to. It won’t engage and top off the second battery.
CID
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Assuming that you have the True Isolator, dual VMs and used a relay to control the ground side of the VMs and the VMs only work with the key on - connect the small black wire from the isolator to either green wire on the relay (the same relay terminal the VMs are connected to). I bought my isolator from the club store and can only advise on it.
If your relay wiring looks like this, connect the small black isolator wire to one of the green wires or that terminal. Sorry for the wordiness, trying to answer in several directions hoping one of them will make sense.
Here's how the isolator from the club store is wired. The small red circle on the left goes to ground. (it's the small black wire on the isolator) Remove that from ground and move it to the relay itself (orange in this drawing) or to the wire running between the orange arrow on the VM and relay (orange, upper center) - like the red line, middle left in this drawing. I used red because it's easy to see but it's a Ground not 12v.
Exactly! And defeating that functionality eliminates part of the utility of having the True Isolator in the first place - - i.e. the True allows a trickle, or other charger, to keep both batteries charged while parked or stored (True recommends charging the Aux battery as that's the one that would sometimes be drained by accessories, winch etc.). Either battery will be charged from the other, once the battery voltage of the battery under charge gets above 13.3 or so, with either charging source, the alternator or an external charger. The blue LED on shows this pass through charging is taking place. the blue light will go out once both batteries are charged to 13.3 to 13.4 or so.
One little addition, I like, is a small momentary push button near the dual voltmeter. When pushed, the button applies a ground to the dual volt meter's switched negative terminal to allow you to check the "unloaded" voltage of both batteries. This is good as if you are turning on the key to check battery voltage while parked, the main battery voltage will be lower due to system load with key on. With the momentary button to check voltage, battery voltages shown will both be "no-load" and will normally be the same voltage if both batteries are charged and healthy.
Tramguage1
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Heck I like seeing the blue light through the dash shifter hole. This is just another way to quickly see that the batteries are charged when I shut off my machine.
