P1000m5 What did you add to/do with your Pioneer 1000 5 today?

Homer

Homer

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Replaced bent tie rod (MOM trophy) and did alignment. Also changed diff fluid although only 1100 miles. Like many others here iT had a lot of metal in the rear fluid. I would recommend an earlier change than manual suggests.
 
05Willys

05Willys

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Put OEM over fenders on the front and modified Mud Busters to be what I wanted. Put Mud Busters on the rear.
20211020 205335
20211020 205342
20211020 173707
20211020 173717
 
Dirtstiffs-1000

Dirtstiffs-1000

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I ordered both kinds for the front. Liked the OEM ones better. Modified the Mud Busters to not be any wider and still get a little more protection. Thanks for the compliment. I like the way it turned out.
One more question, how wide does the Honda fender extension measure?
I drag my busters on everything on the trails.. whatever a chainsaw can't cut...
 
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05Willys

05Willys

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They are right at about the same width as the Mud Busters. I just liked the looks of OEM better.
 
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bigshoe

bigshoe

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Installed new foxes last week been fighting to get them adjusted the way I want. Spent most of my childhood setting up dirt track cars. So I keep wanting to put a heavy 350lb spring on the rf and a 150lb on lf and cranking the rr preload down so I can take left hand turns sideways really good lmao but p1kdaves post brought me back to reality.
 
StewB

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Installed new foxes last week been fighting to get them adjusted the way I want. Spent most of my childhood setting up dirt track cars. So I keep wanting to put a heavy 350lb spring on the rf and a 150lb on lf and cranking the rr preload down so I can take left hand turns sideways really good lmao but p1kdaves post brought me back to reality.
Great idea if I you're still driving ovals . . . : )

I've been very happy with my Fox QS3s. Maybe not having experience with anything better, or more options, has me blissfully unaware. For comparison, my first ATV, which I survived, was an '83 Yamaha YTK 200 3 wheeler with a solid rear axle - bigshoe, a solid axle takes care of your spring and preload decisions. My Teryx 4 had Fox shocks and was fine.
(Now covering ears and eyes because I'mma stay in my happy place.)
 
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bigshoe

bigshoe

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Great idea if I you're still driving ovals . . . : )

I've been very happy with my Fox QS3s. Maybe not having experience with anything better, or more options, has me blissfully unaware. For comparison, my first ATV, which I survived, was an '83 Yamaha YTK 200 3 wheeler with a solid rear axle - bigshoe, a solid axle takes care of your spring and preload decisions. My Teryx 4 had Fox shocks and was fine.
(Now covering ears and eyes because I'mma stay in my happy place.)
Well definitely don't look up p1kdaves posts on fox spring change it will lead u down a worm hole. my chalk board on garage wall looks like I solved the big bang theory . I'm waiting on my wife to text why the h### does the sxs have the Carolina lean. Got called out to work couldn't finish it lol
 
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Wellzy

Wellzy

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What? No horn?

Wanted a loud horn, like an air horn, but not with the big trumpet mounted on the fender or roof. So a compact horn was in order - This one: Horn

and Horn button

Now where to mount the dang thing? It mounts with a single bolt (included) but I just couldn't find a good spot out front for the provided mount. After adding an AUX battery etc. under the hood, no room for a horn there. Inboard of the wheel well, offered some hope, but didn't want to hang it off plastic. There is a steel tube strut, inboard of the wheel and up high, that support the forward fender assembly. Fortunately, there's also a thin slot on the horn mount casting that accommodates a SS hose clamp. I used a bit of rubber hose, over the tube, to provide a shock mount and prevent any damage to tube. Cinched the hose clamp down tight and it's a nice solid "shock mounted" install. Oh, and it's loud.

View attachment 298900View attachment 298901

I linked to a black button, which I have on order, but I used a SS button I had in stock . . . might switch it out later. A relay is required. I used the relay that shipped with the wiring harness, but didn't use the included wiring as I wanted heavier wire (12 GA).

View attachment 298902

Added some shackles to the front of the SE. No rattles with these as they come with rubber washers.


View attachment 298957
Could you link to the mounts you used, and did you have any issues?
 
Wellzy

Wellzy

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A couple days ago I changed my oil and both filters, for the 4th time this year since March. Once again taking off the skid plate as this added step makes the draining sooooo much cleaner and a good way to see what's going on underneath, like the drip on the bottom of my subtrans casing. This is going in for warranty fix (hopefully) next week. For the skid, just pop them loose with a 10mm socket and zip them out with a 10mm in the DeWalt, doesn't take long.

I went from Honda GN4 10w 40, back to 10w 30 for colder temps.
 
bumperm

bumperm

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Could you link to the mounts you used, and did you have any issues?
No separate mount was required to mount the horn. Fortuitously, there is a thin slot on the horn compressor motor casting that is adjacent to the single bolt mount. The provided bolt mount is not used. Instead, a regular stainless steel hose clamp is threaded through the thin slot. Next, a short length of rubber "heater hose", or similar, is slit lengthwise to fit over the steel tube fender support (if you are using a larger diameter piece of hose, I used 1" ID, then remove an additional cut-lengthwise piece so the hose just fits around the steel tube). The hose clamp is cinched up tight on the rubber hose. This provides a very secure mount that still has a degree of vibration isolation to protect the horn.
 
Stateboy

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A couple days ago I changed my oil and both filters, for the 4th time this year since March. Once again taking off the skid plate as this added step makes the draining sooooo much cleaner and a good way to see what's going on underneath, like the drip on the bottom of my subtrans casing. This is going in for warranty fix (hopefully) next week. For the skid, just pop them loose with a 10mm socket and zip them out with a 10mm in the DeWalt, doesn't take long.

I went from Honda GN4 10w 40, back to 10w 30 for colder temps.
You must be putting the miles on. I've had mine since May and even though I'm a half mile from miles and miles of trails, I've only got about 300 miles logged. Good job!
 
mikeholley

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Could you link to the mounts you used, and did you have any issues?

I did not have any issues. I used rollbar paint and painted them black and then taped off the bumper to align them correctly with marks. The metal plate provided enough backing that it feels pretty solid.
 
bumperm

bumperm

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I did not have any issues. I used rollbar paint and painted them black and then taped off the bumper to align them correctly with marks. The metal plate provided enough backing that it feels pretty solid.

The shackles, in the link above, have beveled bases. This is fine if you are going to weld them on, but not so good if you are only bolting them on. The reason this is so, is the smaller narrower footprint of the beveled shackle base results in more bending moment being applied to the bolts with any lateral loading. If bolting only, I'd recommend something like these:

Shackle mount

Bolts are 3/8 - 16 X 1-1/4 grade 8

Bolting and welding doesn't make a lot of sense either, as if welding, the mounts should be positioned in line with the bumper mounting struts that are on each side of the fairlead, as this would result in a stronger overall mount for the shackle. If bolting only, the shackle mount wants to be as close to that inside weldment as the backing plate will allow.
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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I did not have any issues. I used rollbar paint and painted them black and then taped off the bumper to align them correctly with marks. The metal plate provided enough backing that it feels pretty solid.

You're not going to want to pull to much with those. Assuming the SE has the same bumper structure, that's not very thick stuff.
 
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