P500 1st Clutch Adjustment

C

Chooglin

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Guys
I think I'm having clutch issues, but I have a 2017 P500. My owners manual has nothing on clutch adjustment. What "manual" are you referring to? Can I get a scan of the pages?
Thanx Al
IMG 0971
 
Mudder

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Guys
I think I'm having clutch issues, but I have a 2017 P500. My owners manual has nothing on clutch adjustment. What "manual" are you referring to? Can I get a scan of the pages?
Thanx Al
See my post above, did the adjustment on my 2017 and much improvement. Just turn the slotted screw a little at a time and check it until you find the sweet spot. The manual referenced was from an Atv but they work the same. Suggest a short flat tip screwdriver thru a box head wrench to keep the screw still when locking down the lock nut. Did mine thru the opening under the drivers seat.
 
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AlR

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Thanx Mudder: I adjusted the clutch. It was easy to do. Take the seat off. Remove the driver's side dust flap, or the storage bin; whatever you have. Use a flashlight and you'll see this:
20170129 122811 resized Like Mudder said, take note of where the adjustment screw (centre screw) is. Use a 14 mm box-end wrench and loose the lock nut. The 'manual' says to 'turn clockwise until resistance is met'. Well, as soon as I turned clockwise, I met resistance. This thing came to me not-adjusted to Honda specs. Anyways, I met the resistance then turned back clockwise just a tad over 1/4 turn. I no longer have a shifting problem. Adjusting the clutch makes it shift WAY better. Super simple to do. Happy happy.

At the same time I adjusted the pre-load on the shocks. Using this tool:
20170129 131006 resized I dialed each shock only one-click higher. I bounced the shocks & pushed down abit to make sure the suspension wasn't sitting artificially high. That resulted in a 1/2" rise in clearance in the back and just under 1/2" rise in the front; now 10 1/2" clearance fore and aft.
Al
 
H

HondaTech

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HondaTech,

Am I correct? As the clutch wears, the gap gets smaller?
If you ever take off the cover of a Honda atv with adj, clutch you'll see a plate with 3 indents affixed to this adjustment bolt. This plate sits on 3 ball bearings and when a shift is commanded the plate pushes on the clutch to disengage it. When you screw this bolt in, effectively yes your making the gap between this plate and the clutch smaller. It basically takes up the space when the clutch wears. I'm guessing since the engine is automatically made to stall for a split second, if the clutch is disengaged for too long then the engine cant pick itself back up quick enough. It's just something new we'll have to adjust to, since we're use to letting off the throttle while shifting and these units do it themselves.
 
RydeAK

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This was way more of a pain than I thought it would be! I only have 150 miles though, so I think my clutch has not worn much. It took less than the 1/4 turn but took awhile to figure that out...
 
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Montecresto

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This was way more of a pain than I thought it would be! I only have 150 miles though, so I think my clutch has not worn much. It took less than the 1/4 turn but took awhile to figure that out...
I’m curious as to what made you think that it needed adjustment, particularly at just 150 Miles? I have 2,500 Miles on mine and I’ve never adjusted it or felt the need. Do you think that yours may have been out some from the factory???
 
RydeAK

RydeAK

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It was taking multiple attempts to shift from low to 2nd while moving. Has pretty much always done that. So I figured I'd see if it would get better
 
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trigger

trigger

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I’m curious as to what made you think that it needed adjustment, particularly at just 150 Miles? I have 2,500 Miles on mine and I’ve never adjusted it or felt the need. Do you think that yours may have been out some from the factory???

Lots of us have had to do it. Maybe not tightened up enough at factory, wrong setting at factory or each one wearing differently.
 
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Bad_bowtie

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It was taking multiple attempts to shift from low to 2nd while moving. Has pretty much always done that. So I figured I'd see if it would get better

Mine did the exact same thing. Wouldn't shift from Low to 2nd. I adjusted once and it helped some, but not entirely fixed. I recently changed oil and readjusted and it really seemed to help but haven't gotten to ride it much since.

Was wanting to hit Windrock today but heavy rains and high winds most of the day. Hopefully we can ride next weekend.
 
rocmar

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I've never adjusted mine..
it shifts..rough when cold..
New oil helped...I let it run
..a few mins before riding...
....
 
Montecresto

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It was taking multiple attempts to shift from low to 2nd while moving. Has pretty much always done that. So I figured I'd see if it would get better
Mine has done that from day one if I start out first thing cold and go. A little warm up and I never get that. Otherwise I guess I’ve just been lucky with mine not needing adjustment.
 
Montecresto

Montecresto

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Maybe not tightened up enough at factory, wrong setting at factory .
I guess I could see that possibility. I bought a unit mfg on a Wednesday. :D
 
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Christepher

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I have noticed that mine, when warm, will take a split second before shifting when driving manual. I paddle it up, wait then gear engages. Does this sound like an adjustment is needed? (2017 P500 1500kms).
 
Montecresto

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I have noticed that mine, when warm, will take a split second before shifting when driving manual. I paddle it up, wait then gear engages. Does this sound like an adjustment is needed? (2017 P500 1500kms).
Mine doesn’t do that, but I bought it when Honda rolled them out and there was no auto/manual option. Though I don’t know that there’s a relation. 4 years now, 3K miles and no clutch or valve adjustment needed.
 
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Fischer

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Did the adjustment today, went too far and would die out on shifts, then err code and stuck in 1st. Worst on AT mode. Scary. Went back between 1/3 and 1/4 to find the sweet spot after a few try's. All ok and smoother now. Don't you like things you can actually work on with a screwdriver and wrench, like the old cars used to be? Good 35 mile ride in the steep hills today.
I was wondering when you fine tuned your transmission back to 1/4 or 1/3 from when the transmission stalled, did you have to go through the whole one full turn right then counterclockwise to resistance or did you just move it to the sweet spot and bypass the initial steps.
 
Mudder

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I was wondering when you fine tuned your transmission back to 1/4 or 1/3 from when the transmission stalled, did you have to go through the whole one full turn right then counterclockwise to resistance or did you just move it to the sweet spot and bypass the initial steps.
I think I went all the way back, but don’t know if it mattered. Have not had to do an adjustment since.
 

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