It sounds like your coils are grounded out in much the same manner as a kill switch. You said you fried some wires from your winch set up. You may have melted or fused together some wires.
Dirtstiffs-1000
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
- Nov 3, 2018
- 1,655
- 6,029
- 113
- Ownership
-
1000-5
906UP
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
If there's no spark the fuel injectors won't fire either, that's how the P5/5.2's are, would assume the bigger machines are programmed similar.
M
That makes sense. I knew that if there is a bad injector it would kill everything, including the coils, but injectors checked out fine. I just couldn't see fuel coming out, but now I know why. Thanks!
THANK YOU! I couldn't find it in the manual, nor the microfiche. Now that I know where it is I should be able to find it in the manual.
I thought so too, but I've checked and re-checked many times and I have perfect continuity from the coils all the way back to the PCM. If there was an open or short in there it should've showed up.
*****Can anyone tell me more about the drive power circuit? What does it do? Why is it needed? What are some issues it may have that isn't listed in the manual? I've checked it per the manual at least 5 times, had fresh eyes check it twice, and even changed out the PCM to a known good one. Yet it checks out fine every. single. time. What's NOT in the manual I should check.
It's the only code that has been tripped more than once. Maybe it's something connected to the drive power circuit that's failed even though the circuit itself is fine?********
J
Do you have power at coils while cranking.What about the ign switch maybe bad on one out put.When it was breaking up coming home could that have been the seatbelt.
H
HondaTech
Guest
These don't have a tilt sensor to shut fuel/spark off.
M
Ok guys. Here is THE update.
The ultimate culprit (hopefully) was.........drum roll please....................
THE STATOR!!!!
I had checked the CKP previously, but it checked out fine. Where I ran into trouble was my peak voltage tester. It was bad.
With new leads from Amazon I retested the coils. Still had proper battery voltage, but one coil didn't read ANY initial voltage upon cranking, while the other read within tolerance. I then rechecked the peak voltage at the PCM and sure enough, same thing.
So, while I feel pretty confident I have found the problem, I'm not out of the woods yet. However, I'm confident enough to drop $400 on a new stator if that tells you anything.
Of course, I'll update yall after it comes in and I get it installed. Fingers crossed. (I've been wrong about thinking I was wrong before 😜)
Thanks again for all your help!
The ultimate culprit (hopefully) was.........drum roll please....................
THE STATOR!!!!
I had checked the CKP previously, but it checked out fine. Where I ran into trouble was my peak voltage tester. It was bad.
With new leads from Amazon I retested the coils. Still had proper battery voltage, but one coil didn't read ANY initial voltage upon cranking, while the other read within tolerance. I then rechecked the peak voltage at the PCM and sure enough, same thing.
So, while I feel pretty confident I have found the problem, I'm not out of the woods yet. However, I'm confident enough to drop $400 on a new stator if that tells you anything.
Of course, I'll update yall after it comes in and I get it installed. Fingers crossed. (I've been wrong about thinking I was wrong before 😜)
Thanks again for all your help!
M
should be able to test the stator with a descent DVM, its just a 3 phase wye connection, so reading through 2 coils at a time and checking to ground will give you the health of the stator - u r looking for all 3 phases to be close to each other and manual spec and no short to ground - when spinning machine over you should see ac voltage on each phase as well
my recommendation is to also test voltage regulator - the electrical system was giving all it had when it was a dead short to ground
advertisement
M
Yep. Stator is toast. Already have an OEM one one the way.
Good call on the regulator. I wouldn't have thought of that, but makes total sense.
H
HondaTech
Guest
I've had a unit that wouldn't start (no spark) once with the same problem.
CKP sensor voltage at the plug but when connected to the wiring harness it wouldn't start. The sensor was shorted internally and made a circuit when plugged in.
CKP sensor voltage at the plug but when connected to the wiring harness it wouldn't start. The sensor was shorted internally and made a circuit when plugged in.
