M
I followed Mark's previous instructions and it tested fine.
M
😂 Good thing I've got a dump bed!!!!
M
Update time.
I think I'm stuck without the MCS. I replaced the EOT and Coils, no luck. I made a peak voltage tester out of a board from an old TV I had, so it's probably not the most accurate, but here are the things that have checked out OK according to the manual. (most of them multiple times):
- EOT and Coils obviously
- PCM (from my dad's Pioneer)
- Drive power circuit
- starter relay and circuit\
- Idle control valve and IACV
- inhibitor relay
- fuel relay
- starter relay switch
- all fuses and fuse box (proper power leaving fuse)
- ignition relay
- CKP voltage, continuity, and switch
- Diode (is bad, but shouldn't prevent starting)
- Spark plugs
- All 4 ground points (sanded, cleaned, tightened, tested for continuity)
- battery load test
- power input line
- coil power continuity (red/blk)\
- power line inspection\
- relay coil ground line
- entire wiring harness and connections
- stored codes (drive power code did trip again. I triple checked it and had new eyes check it)
I'm sure there's more that I can't think of. I'm out of ideas and STILL don't have any spark.
Is it dealership time?? I feel like they will just throw parts at it until something sticks. I dunno, pretty bummed that I haven't figured this out yet.
I think I'm stuck without the MCS. I replaced the EOT and Coils, no luck. I made a peak voltage tester out of a board from an old TV I had, so it's probably not the most accurate, but here are the things that have checked out OK according to the manual. (most of them multiple times):
- EOT and Coils obviously
- PCM (from my dad's Pioneer)
- Drive power circuit
- starter relay and circuit\
- Idle control valve and IACV
- inhibitor relay
- fuel relay
- starter relay switch
- all fuses and fuse box (proper power leaving fuse)
- ignition relay
- CKP voltage, continuity, and switch
- Diode (is bad, but shouldn't prevent starting)
- Spark plugs
- All 4 ground points (sanded, cleaned, tightened, tested for continuity)
- battery load test
- power input line
- coil power continuity (red/blk)\
- power line inspection\
- relay coil ground line
- entire wiring harness and connections
- stored codes (drive power code did trip again. I triple checked it and had new eyes check it)
I'm sure there's more that I can't think of. I'm out of ideas and STILL don't have any spark.
Is it dealership time?? I feel like they will just throw parts at it until something sticks. I dunno, pretty bummed that I haven't figured this out yet.
M
Mark in Northern Iowa
Well-Known Member
Club Contributor
I guess I still have a few that you have not mentioned.
.
1) Have you tried that old computer reset?
Unhook positive and negative main battery cables, and then holding them together for 30 seconds with the key on. Reconnect cables, now start.
Have read about a few owner no starts, where that actually worked.
Maybe you will get lucky. 👍
.
next
2) Have you tried starting while pressing on the brake?
.
Lastly, now that all your codes are gone.
3) Have you went through the Symptom Troubleshooting on page 4-6?
hondasxs.com
.
Have a good day
.
1) Have you tried that old computer reset?
Unhook positive and negative main battery cables, and then holding them together for 30 seconds with the key on. Reconnect cables, now start.
Have read about a few owner no starts, where that actually worked.
Maybe you will get lucky. 👍
.
next
2) Have you tried starting while pressing on the brake?
.
Lastly, now that all your codes are gone.
3) Have you went through the Symptom Troubleshooting on page 4-6?
P1000 - Diagnostic Trouble Code(DTC), 2016-2020 Honda Pioneer 1000, ALL
I could not find these all in one place, so I thought I would add them. . Check Engine Light blinking, Page 4-9. . Gear Indicator Light blinking, Page 11-11. . Electric Power Steering(EPS) Light blinking, Page 24-11. . Symptom Troubleshooting, Page 4-6. . HOW TO pull stored codes, page 4-8. ...
hondasxs.com
Have a good day
M
You truly are a legend Mark! I haven't tried #1, never even heard of it, will do!!I guess I still have a few that you have not mentioned.
.
1) Have you tried that old computer reset?
Unhook positive and negative main battery cables, and then holding them together for 30 seconds with the key on. Reconnect cables, now start.
Have read about a few owner no starts, where that actually worked.
Maybe you will get lucky. 👍
.
next
2) Have you tried starting while pressing on the brake?
.
Lastly, now that all your codes are gone.
3) Have you went through the Symptom Troubleshooting on page 4-6?
.P1000 - Diagnostic Trouble Code(DTC), 2016-2020 Honda Pioneer 1000, ALL
I could not find these all in one place, so I thought I would add them. . Check Engine Light blinking, Page 4-9. . Gear Indicator Light blinking, Page 11-11. . Electric Power Steering(EPS) Light blinking, Page 24-11. . Symptom Troubleshooting, Page 4-6. . HOW TO pull stored codes, page 4-8. ...
Have a good day
#2 occurred to me last night. I was thinking no way would it be that easy.....it wasn't.
The only code that has re-tripped is drive power circuit. I have checked it 4 times, and had my friend check it, and my dad. It has always checked out.
I really thought the EOT sensor made sense because the fail safe is EXACTLY what it did on my way home. But I replaced it with no luck.
I'm going to start back at the beginning again and recheck all the grounds for the 3rd time. Also try #1. Thanks!!
P1K5Dave
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Club Contributor
So - going back to the basics - every time it wouldn't start in all of your examples, it did always crank over strong?
I keep thinking it's got to be something simpler...
I keep thinking it's got to be something simpler...
Mark in Northern Iowa
Well-Known Member
Club Contributor
revisit again, something you posted about your codes
"the Drive Power Circuit and the EOT sensor are the only ones that would prevent the machine from starting."
That code 29 - IACV, could prevent starting if IACV is stuck closed.
.
But, now thinking about all them codes.
How did you have your winch grounded?
When it burnt wires, could it have melted a main ground or main hot?
Not at the point of connection, but somewhere along one of the main wires?
.
Just trying to give you some ideas, because you said,
"The only code that has re-tripped is drive power circuit."
.
Have a good day
"the Drive Power Circuit and the EOT sensor are the only ones that would prevent the machine from starting."
That code 29 - IACV, could prevent starting if IACV is stuck closed.
.
But, now thinking about all them codes.
How did you have your winch grounded?
When it burnt wires, could it have melted a main ground or main hot?
Not at the point of connection, but somewhere along one of the main wires?
.
Just trying to give you some ideas, because you said,
"The only code that has re-tripped is drive power circuit."
.
Have a good day
M
Yes, it cranks over very strong.
Good point. I already checked the IACV. It scared me when I turned the key on because I thought it was going to unscrew itself! It checked out fine, including all the way back to the PCM. However, I think I messed it up when I put it back it. The book says to turn clockwise until it seats, but does that mean until it seats at the bottom (tight) or barely threaded? I could never get it to bottom, and now it makes the same noise it previously did in the middle (normal, growl, normal) all the time. Regardless, I don't think that's the problem.
The Drive Power Circuit threw yet another code tonight (third time and only code). I'm currently re-checking it.....again.
You might be onto something with the winch ground. I had the factory secondary ground hooked to the winch solenoid, but the weird thing is while the power wire from battery to solenoid burnt, the wiring I ran for the underseat fan also melted. So much so that when we decided to hoof it out of the woods I had to yank the power AND the ground wires to shut it off. Granted, I had hooked the power wire for the fan to the constant hot for the winch, but it backfed all the way through the ground AND killed the diode in the fuse box without blowing any fuses. It also eventually started after that. Very strange.
I haven't traced the main hot wire yet. I will do that as well. ANY idea is always welcome!!
Thank you EVERYONE for your help!
M
Just to clarify, if I get all the way to step 4 on page 4-28 (drive power circuit) and it says to use a known good PCM to check again, and I do that, and end up right back at "use a known good PCM"; what are you supposed to do then?? Just keep putting PCMs in until one works in your machine even though all of them work in their "home" machine?
This is the only code that has been thrown multiple times, so there HAS to be something to it.
Muhalo
This is the only code that has been thrown multiple times, so there HAS to be something to it.
Muhalo
your first symptom before everything burnt up was not starting
somewhere along the way you stated IACV did not pass test and I think its been in and out
may tube videos on IACV in and out process
what is voltage with key on and key off
you did take battery out and have load tested or you do have a true battery load tester
you did replace reverse? diode and take all fuses out and double checked all are good and seated properly
somewhere along the way you stated IACV did not pass test and I think its been in and out
may tube videos on IACV in and out process
what is voltage with key on and key off
you did take battery out and have load tested or you do have a true battery load tester
you did replace reverse? diode and take all fuses out and double checked all are good and seated properly
Last edited:
Could the oil pressure relief valve have anything to do with it? Stuck open or closed.
M
Correct
IACV did not ohm within specs, so I took it out to inspect it. It seemed to work properly spinning back and forth, but I will watch videos, recheck, and report back.
Battery voltage? 12.6v I followed Mark's load test instructions and the battery performed normally. I have also rechecked all grounds, re-sanded, and tightened.
Not sure what you mean by replace reverse. Please explain.
Diode was bad, ordered new one, but I took the diode out of my dad's and it started fine. I have been through the fuse block more times than I can count. Everything checks 100% normal every time.
I haven't read anything about an oil pressure relief valve, so I haven't checked it! Thanks for the idea!! I'll check it tonight and report back.
***Question***
Should you be able to see fuel squirting from the injectors with the throttle body butterflies open? I would've thought they went straight into the cylinder, but I swear it looks like they could inject right before intake. Just curious.
**Story Time**
I physically checked the fuel tank last night because my wife said "It sounds like no fuel to me". "Yea right," I thought. I can hear the fuel pump, and the gauge says half a tank, but I figured why not?! It will make her happy and weirder things have happened. When I looked in the tank I said, "Holy crap I think the fuel gauge is bad!! I knew it would be something simple!! Where is the gas can?!? AHHHH!".
I didn't have any gas so I grabbed my keys. I was as excited as x-mas day!! I asked her to double-check me before I left, just to make sure I wasn't so beat down from this quest that I wasn't seeing a mirage.
When I shook the machine you could clearly see half a tank of fuel. She showed me and my dreams were dashed. I fell back into the empty void of disappointment and sadness. Doomed to stay in the Pioneer continuous circle of electrical troubleshooting purgatory.
Oh well......
M
Dirtstiffs-1000
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
- Nov 3, 2018
- 1,552
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1000-5
..." I was maybe at a 30 degree incline. Out of options I walked out and back to the cabin to grab my dad's 1000-5 and pull it out"
Angle sensor or bad or connection to it is my next guess.
Pioneer 1000 Angle sensor
Angle sensor or bad or connection to it is my next guess.
Pioneer 1000 Angle sensor
Last edited:
J
Do you have spark.If you dont know for sure take the air intake off and hit with eather while cranking.Make sure your tank is not full of water.You can snap on grounds with a jumper any place you want one .Just not hots anything after the computer is low voltage.Everything you have added take off or disconnect.
M
So there IS and angle sensor!?! I hadn't seen it in the manual, but I'll look for it now and check it. Thanks!
That's been my problem the whole time, I don't have spark. I have proper power to the coils just nothing coming out.
Dirtstiffs-1000
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
- Nov 3, 2018
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1000-5
You know, my idea could be wrong about the Pioneer 1000 having a Bank Angle Sensor. I'll grab my manual and look more closely.
Or ping @HondaTech verify.
