P1000 2021 P1K5 Won't start - any help?

StewB

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Soo . . ., I have a 2021 P1K5 (bought new in Jan. 2021) with the original battery. I also have a True dual battery set up. The machine sits in my cabin garage and I drove it around just fine last week. Not always, but for the last several weeks it has a trickle charger attached. The trickle charger reads that it is charging. Still charging.
Today, I tried to fire it up and the dash lights up, but nothing happens. I didn't even hear the solenoid click for the starter.
The True dual voltmeter shows 12.3 volts in the main and 12.9 in the dual battery. It usually reads 14 volts.
I will go try to jump start off my truck and will follow up.
Does this sound like it's time for a new battery?
 
Vikes79

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Hopefully the trickle charger didn’t fry the battery.

Other than that check all your connections. If it cranks with the jumper cables then you got something going on in your battery or connections.
 
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StewB

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And the LiO battery jumper did not get it to crank. The battery jumper read 12.6 volts.

Now I'm not sure if I need a battery or if something else is amiss. :mad:
 
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Remington

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Now I'm not sure if I need a battery or if something else is amiss. :mad:
Yours being at a cabin like mine, check for chewed wires. Get ya every time the little fucers!
 
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Remington

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Sounds like a bad connection or wiring problem
1701735266054
 
StewB

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12v is enough, you should hear a click at a minimum. Sounds like a bad connection or wiring problem

My follow up.
I put one of those LiO jumper battery packs on the terminals, and had nothing. I charged the thing before doing this, so it was at the top of its game. It failed.
I then hooked up my truck and the P1k5 main battery by jumper cables. Revved the truck a few times, then tried to start the P1k5.
Nothing more than before. Dash lights came on, but it would not engage or try to start.
Futzed around for a while and gave the key one last chance while the jumper cables were attached.
It fired up and I drove it around and plowed.

My take is that it is a really dead battery and a simple jumpstart wasn't enough to get the amps necessary to crank and start.
 
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bumperm

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No doubt
My take is that it is a really dead battery and a simple jumpstart wasn't enough to get the amps necessary to crank and start.
Your take is correct, your original '21 battery is toast. Mine failed in less than a year. Problem being the parts shortage had those batteries sitting on the shelf or installed in unfinished units for too long. Lead acid batteries, in storage in *good* conditions need to be charged every 6 months minimum - - - you know they didn't do that, so the plates started to sulfate and the battery lost capacity. If you want to double check, and have a voltmeter handy, when cranking, your battery should stay above 10.5 volts. Not sure if your panel voltmeter will do, as I think it may go blank when cranking.

Buy a new battery and 99% your starting problem will disappear.
 
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packer58

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My follow up.
I put one of those LiO jumper battery packs on the terminals, and had nothing. I charged the thing before doing this, so it was at the top of its game. It failed.
I then hooked up my truck and the P1k5 main battery by jumper cables. Revved the truck a few times, then tried to start the P1k5.
Nothing more than before. Dash lights came on, but it would not engage or try to start.
Futzed around for a while and gave the key one last chance while the jumper cables were attached.
It fired up and I drove it around and plowed.

My take is that it is a really dead battery and a simple jumpstart wasn't enough to get the amps necessary to crank and start.
That seems a little odd to me, I would give it one last test and disconnect the battery leeds from the primary and hook your jumpers directly to the leeds then try to start it.
 
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bumperm

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That seems a little odd to me, I would give it one last test and disconnect the battery leeds from the primary and hook your jumpers directly to the leeds then try to start it.
The "problem" with that is success is predicated on the ampacity of the jumper cables and the contact area of the cable clips involved. Many so-so jumper cables work fine when connected to a good voltage source and then left in place for long enough to build up a decent charge in the "low" vehicle battery. The low battery gets a charge built up and then has enough capacity to start the vehicle. BUT, if the low vehicle battery is sulfated and thus has very low capacity, or if the low battery is intentionally disconnected, then the jumper rig has to have enough ampacity to handle the whole starting chore, and voltage drop due to any marginal connections may leave it not up to the task.

A good check, again, is to monitor the battery voltage while cranking, should stay above 10.5 volts.
 

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