P1000 2nd battery sizes

Robobrainiac

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I have another question. Should I use 4 Awg or 6 AWG wire to go from the TrueAM that will be under the hood to the battery
 
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bumperm

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I have another question. Should I use 4 Awg or 6 AWG wire to go from the TrueAM that will be under the hood to the battery
The True comes with wiring. The distances are short, so wire resistance and its resulting voltage drop isn't so much an issue with the short runs. Also, consider that lead acid batteries have relatively high internal resistance, more when they are discharged, less so when fully charged, but there's still a bit. This keeps the inter-battery charging current, when the engine is running or when charging from shore power, relatively low so long as the charging voltage is appropriate.

In other words, it's not as critical as the wiring from the AUX battery to winch. The same run coming forward to the winch can be used for the connection to the True - you can make that from the winch contactor (if its under the hood, etc.).
 
Robobrainiac

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I have yet another question. Do I run the ground from the 2nd battery to the frame or the ground to the fuse box or both? Do I run the TrueAM ground to the frame or the battery? Should I ground the radio, amplifier, LED lights to the frame or run grounds to the battery?
 
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bumperm

bumperm

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I have yet another question. Do I run the ground from the 2nd battery to the frame or the ground to the fuse box or both? Do I run the TrueAM ground to the frame or the battery? Should I ground the radio, amplifier, LED lights to the frame or run grounds to the battery?
You can ground the second battery to the frame, so long as it's a good ground - using a star washer and silicone grease will insure a good ground and prevent oxidation (corrosion) that could otherwise cause problems later. The True will most often be grounded to a negative terminal of either battery - - but again, ground is common, so as long as the ground is and remains good, doesn't matter where it's attached.

When adding small accessories and electronics, good practice is to run the ground back to the ground buss - and the buss is connected to a battery negative. The problem with grounding a bunch of different things to the frame in different places is in maintaining all those grounds in pristine condition to prevent resistance build-up, "floating grounds" etc. A ground buss bar (often as part of the fuse box) keeps things in order.
 
Robobrainiac

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You can ground the second battery to the frame, so long as it's a good ground - using a star washer and silicone grease will insure a good ground and prevent oxidation (corrosion) that could otherwise cause problems later. The True will most often be grounded to a negative terminal of either battery - - but again, ground is common, so as long as the ground is and remains good, doesn't matter where it's attached.

When adding small accessories and electronics, good practice is to run the ground back to the ground buss - and the buss is connected to a battery negative. The problem with grounding a bunch of different things to the frame in different places is in maintaining all those grounds in pristine condition to prevent resistance build-up, "floating grounds" etc. A ground buss bar (often as part of the fuse box) keeps things in order.
Thank you for the response. I think my plan is slowly coming together!
 
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Hawk53

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Figuratively lol.
Ive had my Odyssey on with the stereo blasting, amp, sub and whips for 6hrs a few times the way your describing and was still at 11amps according to my meeter. I also have a blue seas cut off switch that i highly recommend and set it for 10.5 amps to cut the power. A battery starts to head in to permanent damage zone at 10amps.
Voltage is a measure of the pressure that allows electrons to flow, while amperage is a measure of the volume of electrons
 
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Hawk53

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You dont say? 🤔 😂

But thanks for the refresher.
Figuratively lol.
Ive had my Odyssey on with the stereo blasting, amp, sub and whips for 6hrs a few times the way your describing and was still at 11amps according to my meeter. I also have a blue seas cut off switch that i highly recommend and set it for 10.5 amps to cut the power. A battery starts to head in to permanent damage zone at 10amps.
So you have a switch that cuts off when it see’s 10.5 amps of current flow. Just trying to understand this statement. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Remington

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Figuratively lol.
Ive had my Odyssey on with the stereo blasting, amp, sub and whips for 6hrs a few times the way your describing and was still at 11amps according to my meeter. I also have a blue seas cut off switch that i highly recommend and set it for 10.5 amps to cut the power. A battery starts to head in to permanent damage zone at 10amps.
So you have a switch that cuts off when it see’s 10.5 amps of current flow. Just trying to understand this statement. 🤷🏻‍♂️
Just as it says.
the OP was concerned about operating time with a larger under the seat battery vrs the smaller under the hood battery while running an amp and radio. I just gave him what my experience has been with my under the hood battery and that i use a blue seas cut out switch set for 10.5 volts (i see where u might be confused cuz i typeoed amps for volts) so further damage doest occur to the battery if Things run too long.
did that help?
 
Hawk53

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Just as it says.
the OP was concerned about operating time with a larger under the seat battery vrs the smaller under the hood battery while running an amp and radio. I just gave him what my experience has been with my under the hood battery and that i use a blue seas cut out switch set for 10.5 volts (i see where u might be confused cuz i typeoed amps for volts) so further damage doest occur to the battery if Things run too long.
did that help?
Yes I saw the typo three times in a row that is why I questioned it.
 
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Yes I saw the typo three times in a row that is why I questioned it.
If u seen the typo, then why didn't you just say
“didn't you mean volts not amps?”
instead of going through all that engineer mumbo jumbo? Do u make mistakes?
 
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Robobrainiac

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I did some research on the FVP battery and could not find any Amp Hour specifics. Their website advertises 170 minutes of runtime on a 25 amp draw. So I ran some numbers thru a calculator again and found the Walmart battery is supposed to last 240 minutes at a 25 amp draw. My concern is that technically that is a full drain to 0 on the Walmart battery. Do you think the FVP battery advertising 170 minutes is a consistent expected use without battery damage? Or do you think the 170 minutes drains the FVP to 0
 
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Is anyone using a 2nd battery under the seat? What sizes is everyone using for under the seat or under the hood?
I put the biggest car sealed battery that would fit, 500+ cca Your choice starter or deep cycle, both will do the job. The deep cycle has thicker plates so will last longer in either case watch your volt meter try not to discharge the batter over 50% average for a long life 12.3-12.4v as an average. Average battery lifespan 4-5yrs.
Heat you want: solution stick in and 750 watt inverter and when the engine is running use a small cheap 200-300 watt 110v. heater to take off the chill. Not a perfect solution but works and use com sense, "A rare commodity ".

Old School
 
Robobrainiac

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What is the little tab for on the TrueAM?

IMG 20211022 122818
 
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