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P1000m5 4-WD Clicking Noise When Turning

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bigfoothunter

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May 24, 2019
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Hi all,

I am new to the forum, and just purchased a 2017 Honda 1000-5 at an auction. It has 300 hours and 2,000 miles on it.
After getting it home it seems that there might be an issue in regards to the 4-wd as when I put it in gear, there is a terrible ticking/clicking sound. It seems to be more localized on the left side of the vehicle and you can feel it in the steering. No issues when in 2wd. Could anyone point me to what might need to be looked at or where to start? I have searched online and on this forum and can’t seem to find much information on this issue. There isn’t a noise when the vehicle is moving with the steering wheel straight.

Thanks,

Adam


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Smitty335

Smitty335

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Hi all,

I am new to the forum, and just purchased a 2017 Honda 1000-5 at an auction. It has 300 hours and 2,000 miles on it.
After getting it home it seems that there might be an issue in regards to the 4-wd as when I put it in gear, there is a terrible ticking/clicking sound. It seems to be more localized on the left side of the vehicle and you can feel it in the steering. No issues when in 2wd. Could anyone point me to what might need to be looked at or where to start? I have searched online and on this forum and can’t seem to find much information on this issue. There isn’t a noise when the vehicle is moving with the steering wheel straight.

Thanks,

Adam


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300 hours and 2,000 miles? I can tell you this isn't trail miles. Think@ Dirtstiffs-1000 is right. Bad CV joint! Hey come join some of our rides!
 
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bigfoothunter

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May 24, 2019
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300 hours and 2,000 miles? I can tell you this isn't trail miles. Think@ Dirtstiffs-1000 is right. Bad CV joint! Hey come join some of our rides!

Okay I’ll take a look at that.

The tires are absolutely shot, it’s looking like they have spent a lot of time on asphalt.

Today I pulled apart the box under the bed that has the adjustable cables because it wouldn’t engage into turf mode and found what seemed to be a good seal to that box, but there was significant moisture and calcium buildup in it (very hard water in this area. It didn’t look like to me it had ever been opened up, which made me wonder how the heck water ever got in it.


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bigfoothunter

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May 24, 2019
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Grab the left axle and try to move it back and forth. Just guessing a broken axle spline or CV joint.

Grabbed the left axle, and it has a little play for sure. The right axle also has a TINY bit of play but not as much as the left.


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bigfoothunter

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300 hours and 2,000 miles? I can tell you this isn't trail miles. Think@ Dirtstiffs-1000 is right. Bad CV joint! Hey come join some of our rides!

What’s would a more typical mileage be for something that has 300 hours?


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Smitty335

Smitty335

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Okay I’ll take a look at that.

The tires are absolutely shot, it’s looking like they have spent a lot of time on asphalt.

Today I pulled apart the box under the bed that has the adjustable cables because it wouldn’t engage into turf mode and found what seemed to be a good seal to that box, but there was significant moisture and calcium buildup in it (very hard water in this area. It didn’t look like to me it had ever been opened up, which made me wonder how the heck water ever got in it.


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If the previous owners drove it in 4 wd lock on payment all four tires would show significant wear. When you get new tires check the front toe in, most at are toed out from the factory. Welcome aboard!
 
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bigfoothunter

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Grab the left axle and try to move it back and forth. Just guessing a broken axle spline or CV joint.

I’m assuming the full axle is what needs replacing? I found the all balls 8 ball axle on rockymountainatv for $157 which seems reasonable. I also noticed the front right tire is balled towards the inside compared to the left front tire which has worn more evenly...not sure if this has anything to do with the axle or cv joints?
 
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Smitty335

Smitty335

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I’m assuming the full axle is what needs replacing? I found the all balls 8 ball axle on rockymountainatv for $157 which seems reasonable. I also noticed the front right tire is balled towards the inside compared to the left front tire which has worn more evenly...not sure if this has anything to do with the axle or cv joints?
Toe in/out.
 
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bigfoothunter

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If the previous owners drove it in 4 wd lock on payment all four tires would show significant wear. When you get new tires check the front toe in, most at are toed out from the factory. Welcome aboard!

Thanks Smitty so much for the help! See my comment above in regards to tire wear. Also if you know the answer to replacing the full axle please feel free to chime in. I can tell I’m going to like this forum! Thanks guys.
 
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Smitty335

Smitty335

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Thanks Smitty so much for the help! See my comment above in regards to tire wear. Also if you know the answer to replacing the full axle please feel free to chime in. I can tell I’m going to like this forum! Thanks guys.
Well you got the hind tit with me, there are really smart people here, they will chime in eventually! The P1 's are great! Pictures please!
 
Smitty335

Smitty335

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Thanks Smitty so much for the help! See my comment above in regards to tire wear. Also if you know the answer to replacing the full axle please feel free to chime in. I can tell I’m going to like this forum! Thanks guys.
Go to You Tube and you will find some vids that show you how to do it, I doubt you need an axel.
 
Adam490

Adam490

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....but there was significant moisture and calcium buildup in it (very hard water in this area. It didn’t look like to me it had ever been opened up, which made me wonder how the heck water ever got in it.

The vent for that box terminates into the frame rail under the seat. It's not that hard to get water in the vent line if you hit it with a good pressure washer (or drive it through water up to the seat). I'd suggest running the vent lines up higher while you are in there working on things anyway. There are 4 that definitely need to be run higher: rear diff, sub trans, gas tank, and that box. I ran mine over the top of the airbox, but a lot of people run them to the roof. If you search for vent lines you'll get all the info you need.
 
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snuffnwhisky

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Grabbed the left axle, and it has a little play for sure. The right axle also has a TINY bit of play but not as much as the left.


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Make sure there is "no" bind on the axle. Really shouldn't be hardly any movement except for in and out maybe 1/4" parallel to the axle.
 
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bigfoothunter

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Make sure there is "no" bind on the axle. Really shouldn't be hardly any movement except for in and out maybe 1/4" parallel to the axle.

The movement is parallel to the axle, no movement perpendicular. I’d say the left axle has 1/4” movement, the right only has 1/16” movement parallel.


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snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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The movement is parallel to the axle, no movement perpendicular. I’d say the left axle has 1/4” movement, the right only has 1/16” movement parallel.


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Sound the same in 4wd or Lock? If those cables are not adjusted, loud ratcheting/popping noise from the front diff. There's an adjustment in the front and rear of the front diff on the pass side. Manual available if your a member, completely worth it.
 
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bigfoothunter

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Sound the same in 4wd or Lock? If those cables are not adjusted, loud ratcheting/popping noise from the front diff. There's an adjustment in the front and rear of the front diff on the pass side. Manual available if your a member, completely worth it.

Yes it sounds the same in 4wd or lock. I didn’t realize there were adjustments for the front as well. I will research that.

The clicking doesn’t seem to be as bad if throttle is consistently applied; it is more noticeable when decelerating or accelerating. It can be felt in the steering wheel and feels like it is coming from the drivers side.


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