P1000 About to install electrical - design questions

[DawgU]

About to do all the electrical work on new PK15 Forest. Bought Auxbeam 8 gang panel. Bought dual isolater from here. Trying to decide what additional switches I'll need - and wondering if there's a better/simpler way to do it than I'm thinking. I found a shop highly recommended and decided to pay them to do it all so I don't waste every weekend between now and duck season trying to do it all myself. I don't know sh*t about electrical so it's a given I'm going to ask some dumb questions.....

Front bumper light pods - auto on with high beams (trigger harness from here - so don't need switch or connection to Auxbeam)
Roof light - to individual switch/button on Auxbeam
Side pods - to individual switch/button on Auxbeam
Reverse pods - to individual switch/button on Auxbeam
Swamp Donkey - to individual switch/button on Auxbeam - is this necessary/good? Any need for separate power switch just for radio?

Combining floor and rear cargo lights to floor switch
Adding led dome lights and going to use cargo switch. If those lights are going to be mounted to my roof, would you add disconnect in case I have to take the roof off for some reason? Same question for light bar on roof? (I have Ranch Armor aluminum roof - not factory one)

Adding dual voltmeter rocker switch (don't like the round ones)
Adding cheap wireless controller for factory Warn winch - would you add power on/off rocker switch for winch?
Would you add Accessories on/off rocker switch to control power to Auxbeam?
Would like to add combo usb/usb-c in rocker switch location but I can't find one. Put one in cigarette lighter, but think rocker switch location would be much easier to access

Bought Anti-gravity lithium battery for extra battery. Read some things here about not using lithium to power winch. Should I use the factory battery as the extra battery and use the lithium as primary? Lithium has higher cranking amps and re-start reserve.

If reverse pods are connected through Auxbeam I don't think I can also install auto-reverse because I don't think the Auxbeam has three way switch type switch functionality - but would be convenient if possible. I want all the lights, except the front bumper, on the Auxbeam because I can link them and turn them all on with one switch on the Auxbeam (when putting out duck decoys I can just hit one button and light up the whole duck hole - so I don't want reverse lights on separate 3 way switch).

If you had side and reverse pods would you have them on separate switches on the Auxbeam or just have them all come on anytime you wanted reverse lights - either to just help you see or to save a switch on the Auxbeam for later?

Things I might install in the future - wondering if I should go ahead and do any of them now.....
Fan override
Fan to help cool seat in summer (already installed both the DEI and the Quickshield, working great so I don't think I'll need it, haven't gone on long slow ride yet so not sure.
Heated front seats
Heater - doubtful but my girlfriend is very cold natured. Think I'll just do propane heater between driver/passenger
Going to get a sprayer. Would you add a rocker switch to control it or just use the switch that comes with the sprayer? I think having the switch in hand may make more sense - and it already has cigarette plug in cargo area. Never used one, so I don't know.

I'm biting the bullet on paying for the whole thing. I'd like to do things once, have it done right, and be done. I'll get over the cost. Anything else you'd do? Any other advice? Lord only knows how many hours I've spent reading posts on here. I've learned a ton. As always, thank you very much for your help!!!

 

[Scoop]

Swamp Donkey - to individual switch/button on Auxbeam - is this necessary/good? Any need for separate power switch just for radio?

Yes. You WILL forget to turn it off. Might as well ID-10T it.

Combining floor and rear cargo lights to floor switch
Adding led dome lights and going to use cargo switch. If those lights are going to be mounted to my roof, would you add disconnect in case I have to take the roof off for some reason? Same question for light bar on roof? (I have Ranch Armor aluminum roof - not factory one)

I added some inline disconnects for a few select things not because I thought I'd remove the roof, but because I thought I would R&R the accessory. Honestly, unless I roll this thing over, I don't ever expect to remove the roof on either machine. It doesn't really hurt to add the disconnects - just a little more work. Put them where you can hide them nicely. If you think you'll remove the roof more often, then by all means, disconnects are cheap and make it easier in the future.

Adding cheap wireless controller for factory Warn winch - would you add power on/off rocker switch for winch?

Don't need a full-blown Carling rocker but put a small toggle switch somewhere that interrupts the wireless transceiver. Some have reported RF interference causing the winch to move on its own.

Would you add Accessories on/off rocker switch to control power to Auxbeam?

I didn't add an Auxbeam-specific on/off switch on my P1K5, and I won't do it for my Talon, either. What I did do it add the DPDT switch from the Club store that has three positions: (1) Energize every accessory ONLY when key-on power is present, (b) energize every accessory even if the key is off (e.g., hanging @ the lake listening to the radio or working in the field and you want your rear work lights on, but not run the machine), and (c) do not energize anything regardless of key-on or key-off. This would serve the same purpose as your Auxbeam-specific switch, but does it for ALL accessories connected to your AUX battery/fuse box.

Put one in cigarette lighter, but think rocker switch location would be much easier to access

I have an adapter pushed into my 12V socket right now: One USB-C and two USB-A 3.0. I, too, am looking for a better permanent installation like you.

If reverse pods are connected through Auxbeam I don't think I can also install auto-reverse because I don't think the Auxbeam has three way switch type switch functionality - but would be convenient if possible. I want all the lights, except the front bumper, on the Auxbeam because I can link them and turn them all on with one switch on the Auxbeam (when putting out duck decoys I can just hit one button and light up the whole duck hole - so I don't want reverse lights on separate 3 way switch).

Some of the 'lectrical geniuses here can give you better direction on this one, but you might be able to connect both the auto-reverse and the Auxbeam switch if you use a diode to prevent current flow reversal depending upon which source is powering the pods.

If you had side and reverse pods would you have them on separate switches on the Auxbeam or just have them all come on anytime you wanted reverse lights - either to just help you see or to save a switch on the Auxbeam for later?

I don't want ANY lights coming on and off when I shift in/out of reverse. I might have to do a 3-4-whatever point turn, which means your lights will be turning on and off multiple times while going between D and R. I'm a "turn them ON until I'm done with them" kind of guy. Also, I want to be able to use my reverse pods as work lights, and I don't need the side ones on when working behind the machine. I would have side and reverse pods on separate switches that you turn on/off manually. YMMV.

Things I might install in the future - wondering if I should go ahead and do any of them now.....
Fan override
Fan to help cool seat in summer (already installed both the DEI and the Quickshield, working great so I don't think I'll need it, haven't gone on long slow ride yet so not sure.

I would wait until you put some miles on it to see if either are even necessary. No need in farkling up with things you don't really need. For example, I made my own heat shield, and I get very little benefit out of the bilge fan I installed. If I were doing it again, I would likely forego the bilge fan.

Heated front seats

Wait to see if they are needed.

Heater - doubtful but my girlfriend is very cold natured. Think I'll just do propane heater between driver/passenger

I installed the Ice Crusher heater. Sure is nice to be able to twist the knob and get heat in the cab and on the windshield. But if your SO is not happy, you won't be happy. Most heaters are a PITA to install. I wish I had installed mine FIRST, before the dual battery and other stuff. I had to remove it and remove the entire front clip to install my heater. Depending upon the brand/model you choose, you could end up in the same boat.

Going to get a sprayer. Would you add a rocker switch to control it or just use the switch that comes with the sprayer? I think having the switch in hand may make more sense - and it already has cigarette plug in cargo area. Never used one, so I don't know.

Get the sprayer and use it as is. If you find it cumbersome, THEN decide if adding a switch would be worth it.

I'm biting the bullet on paying for the whole thing. I'd like to do things once, have it done right, and be done. I'll get over the cost.

You'll never be done. LOL.

Anything else you'd do? Any other advice?

I know you don't want to hear this, but my advice is to do the work yourself. Sure, paying someone gets it done. But you haven't learned anything about how any of it was installed. If you happen to be out on your own and something goes wrong, knowing what to look for to make a quick repair could be the difference between riding several miles out or walking several miles out.

Lord only knows how many hours I've spent reading posts on here. I've learned a ton. As always, thank you very much for your help!!!

These forums are the best.

 

[Vikes79]

I’d run a fuse block that is controlled by a switched relay off your 2nd battery to run all your accessories.

This way when the key is off, everything on that block is off. I have a common 50A relay driving this fuse block.

I have mine set this way for my fans, lights, heater and winch switch on my dash. My winch remote is direct to the battery.

For the sprayer, I run a separate two wire plug with a hand switch inline, much more useful than a dash switch.