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AK_Centurion's P1000-5
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AK_Centurion's P1000-5
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Ended up pulling a Commander 15 miles back to camp. Video doesn't do it justice. I made it to the top of the hill quicker than the camera man expected.
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Monument was an easy stroll for the honda, went up there twice. Took the trail north toward the Nelchina also, went back to the river.
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Last Friday we rode King River. First time there, don't think we ended up where we planned on going, sti
ll a great ride though.
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The Rancher had issues getting across this section, but the Pioneer just walks through it.
Had a little trouble getting out at the end.
Had a little trouble getting out at the end.
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Ended up bending my passenger side tie rod again, same one that I bent when I broke through the ice. This time it its toast. Was able to get it straight enough to ride out. Ordered 2 more so I would have a spare, if it ever happens again. Won't be in till Wednesday, so I tinkered on the rig this weekend.
Got some heat sheilding installed. 24" wide Reflectix insulation I had left over from doing my roof.
If you remove the seat back and filler panel, you can tuck the extra back there. It should direct any heat up and behind the seat. It also hides the silver from showing.
Got some heat sheilding installed. 24" wide Reflectix insulation I had left over from doing my roof.
If you remove the seat back and filler panel, you can tuck the extra back there. It should direct any heat up and behind the seat. It also hides the silver from showing.
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Messed around with installing a snorkel. I like the way it turned out!
2" I.D. shop vac hose
2- 2" street 90
4- hose clamps
1' or so of 2" ABS pipe
4- 1" self tapping screws
2" rubber coupler
I removed the section of pipe under the seat and both couplers. Used the coupler from the front to attach the vac hose to the air box.
Ran the hose foward and looped it back up the drivers side, behind the filler panel and seat back.
Came up right next to the air box. Had to trim the access cover a little.
Then up between the roll cage and seat back. Trimmed the plastic on the top edge of the bed.
From there, up behind the head rest, to the top roll bar.
Add the 2" rubber coupler, street 90, with a couple of hose clamps. then the 2" pipe and the other 90. I used self tappers to hold the pipe and 90s together and still be able to disassemble if needed. Hoses clamp the snorkel to your roll bar. I re used the original prefilter, trimmed and stuffed in the last 90. It should keep water out when washing and the self tappers will keep the filter from being sucked in.
System is leak free and will choke out the engine in seconds when covered.
2" I.D. shop vac hose
2- 2" street 90
4- hose clamps
1' or so of 2" ABS pipe
4- 1" self tapping screws
2" rubber coupler
I removed the section of pipe under the seat and both couplers. Used the coupler from the front to attach the vac hose to the air box.
Ran the hose foward and looped it back up the drivers side, behind the filler panel and seat back.
Came up right next to the air box. Had to trim the access cover a little.
Then up between the roll cage and seat back. Trimmed the plastic on the top edge of the bed.
From there, up behind the head rest, to the top roll bar.
Add the 2" rubber coupler, street 90, with a couple of hose clamps. then the 2" pipe and the other 90. I used self tappers to hold the pipe and 90s together and still be able to disassemble if needed. Hoses clamp the snorkel to your roll bar. I re used the original prefilter, trimmed and stuffed in the last 90. It should keep water out when washing and the self tappers will keep the filter from being sucked in.
System is leak free and will choke out the engine in seconds when covered.
i love how u did the 3" pipe for the rear did that work as well as expected? mine is bone stock and I am installing street rays 2.5" spacers on the front so would I have to measure them and add the same height in the rear? and lastly did it effect your self leveling at all that you know of thanks for our time nice mod
Clearance with CATVOS arms, spacers and stock tires.
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does anyone else know any info on rear spring spacers? I have the street rays 2.5 on front rather than 2.0" simply cause I am going to be putting heavy boss plow up front and figured I ride hard also and might need that little bit extra so.... any feedback would help greatly!!!!
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Been awhile since I updated this. A few people were wondering how the rear spring spacers were working. Well, they work great! A little stiffer ride all around, but I still feel comfortable on high speed runs. I am able to go faster on some sections because the fronts don't bottoms out anymore.
The combination of a CATVOS lift and spring spacers on the fronts have cost me 3 front axles so far. Hopefully some steering stops will solve that problem. Another call to CATVOS and they have some stops being shipped to me.
The combination of a CATVOS lift and spring spacers on the fronts have cost me 3 front axles so far. Hopefully some steering stops will solve that problem. Another call to CATVOS and they have some stops being shipped to me.
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Our last ride was supposed to be a quick 6-7 mile run and back. 2-RZR1000-4, A Rubicon, and my Pioneer. Left Settler Bay at 2:30PM and didn't make it back till 3:00AM. I think we only made it half way before we had to turn around because of the carnage.
This me getting pulled out by a RZR. This is in a buddy's front yard, about 70'x100' off swamp on his ten acres.
When the trail leader says the trail gets tight and he is on a Rubicon! You end up with tree bark in your tire bead.
Tight turning trough the trees.
This is where we decide to turn around. Came to swampy area with lots of water. It was dark and we couldn't light up arcoss the water to see were the trail came out. One of the RZRs decided to turn around in a wide spot in the trees, got stuck and broke 3 axles trying to get out.
Broke both my fronts axles trying to help him out.
We got every on turned around and back on the trail. The good RZR towed the broke one out. The Rubicon lead the way and I was last. The RZRs had a hell of a time getting through the holes and making the turns through the trees. I told them not to stop for me until they reached solid ground. My wife learned a lot about winching that night! It was a winch fest for us. I had already broke my cable in half helping the RZR get turned around. 25ft of cable left and hook that was just tied on, not to mention trees in the swamps aren't great for anchors.
Here is what was left of my cable.
It was about 6PM when we decide to turn around, 9 hours to get back to our starting point.
This me getting pulled out by a RZR. This is in a buddy's front yard, about 70'x100' off swamp on his ten acres.
When the trail leader says the trail gets tight and he is on a Rubicon! You end up with tree bark in your tire bead.
Tight turning trough the trees.
This is where we decide to turn around. Came to swampy area with lots of water. It was dark and we couldn't light up arcoss the water to see were the trail came out. One of the RZRs decided to turn around in a wide spot in the trees, got stuck and broke 3 axles trying to get out.
Broke both my fronts axles trying to help him out.
We got every on turned around and back on the trail. The good RZR towed the broke one out. The Rubicon lead the way and I was last. The RZRs had a hell of a time getting through the holes and making the turns through the trees. I told them not to stop for me until they reached solid ground. My wife learned a lot about winching that night! It was a winch fest for us. I had already broke my cable in half helping the RZR get turned around. 25ft of cable left and hook that was just tied on, not to mention trees in the swamps aren't great for anchors.
Here is what was left of my cable.
It was about 6PM when we decide to turn around, 9 hours to get back to our starting point.
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After that last ride, I had to do some more modifications.
Added a small LED to light up the winch drum, so I didn't had to carry a flashlight to check on it. I use a red one for trailer lighting. While I had the bumper off for the rope swap. Made a hole big enough for the rubber grommet in the plastic just below the radiator. Wired the light off the Illumination for my switch panel.
Swapped the cable out for some red 1/4" rope, rated at 6400#.
Added 2 more 8" light bars. One on each side of the 30" up top. They are mounted on the angled part of the cage and work well at that angle.
Mounted a 4" blower under the seat. Need to get some pipe and duct it to the front panel of the seats. Plan is to get a custom switch made with heat and cool symbols of wording on it. Wire it up so the blower can be reversed with a flip of the switch.
Added a small LED to light up the winch drum, so I didn't had to carry a flashlight to check on it. I use a red one for trailer lighting. While I had the bumper off for the rope swap. Made a hole big enough for the rubber grommet in the plastic just below the radiator. Wired the light off the Illumination for my switch panel.
Swapped the cable out for some red 1/4" rope, rated at 6400#.
Added 2 more 8" light bars. One on each side of the 30" up top. They are mounted on the angled part of the cage and work well at that angle.
Mounted a 4" blower under the seat. Need to get some pipe and duct it to the front panel of the seats. Plan is to get a custom switch made with heat and cool symbols of wording on it. Wire it up so the blower can be reversed with a flip of the switch.
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Few other things I have done. Moved one of the control boxes under the drivers seat for better access to that space.
Moved the one that was at the rear to the side.
Update on my switch panel. Winch switches I wanted. Old winch switch would only light up when you pressed in or out. New switch lights up both words so yo can find the switch in the dark.
Moved the one that was at the rear to the side.
Update on my switch panel. Winch switches I wanted. Old winch switch would only light up when you pressed in or out. New switch lights up both words so yo can find the switch in the dark.
CumminsPusher
Just a Honda doing Honda things.
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
I really like the idea of the lit up winch that's great! Holy crap what an ordeal though I'm sorry to hear about your rig.
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Josh, the guy that broke 3 axles was disappointed. The wife and I still had a great time. She had enough fun, that I'm allowed to spend even more on the Pioneer. It was a long night and tough ride, but everyone was still smiling when we got back!
I didn't do too bad with my rig. Kinda fibbed. Asked the service guy if they would warranty my axles, if I changed them out my self. Told them the machine was stuck out at a friends cabin, since it only had rear wheel drive and I couldn't get it out. He just said to bring in the old axles after I swap them out.
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I also made more progress on the blower/heater set up. 4" blower mounted on some flat stock I bent. 4"x3" flexible coupler, 3" street 90, 3"X3" ABS pipe, 3" 90, and 3" drain. Total price about $40 so far. I need to swap out the last 90 with a street 90 so the drain will slide right on. Original plan was to have 2 or 3 vents, but I just didn't have enough room and would have to move some harnesses around. New plan is to build a center compartment that will hold ducting and vent on the bottom half and some sealed storage above. Currently wired up to blow air into the cab area for heat. I have ordered and on-off-on switch with heat and cool symbols for $21. Once that arrives, it will reversible with the flip on a switch. I didn't think it through very well when I mounter the blower last night. Just thought it was a convenient spot and still have access to the dipstick. I didn't realize how well the Honda exhaust shielding works! The shield sits right in the middle off the blower, so I get a mix and luke warm air. If I place my hand so the blower only pulls from the exhaust side of the shield, I get nice warm air. I'll see how she does while driving, may have make up a shroud.
CumminsPusher
Just a Honda doing Honda things.
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
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Should have a good chance to test the output tomorrow. Forecast calling for a high of 36 degrees. Still think I'll have to build a shroud or move the blower closer to the center. Won't have any reliable review for moisture. I only have the wind deflector, nothing else. I did notice a good amount of heat come through the access panel whenever the fans kicks in. Might looking into a way to harness the heat when we need it or deflect it toward the wheel well to keep from steaming you out in the summer.
if I do just the spring spacers will I have to worry about anything like that?
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