P1000 Answer to Dust!

[DenMachine]

You've caught my attention! Haha

Can you post a picture of those doors?

Ok, here you go.

 

[Admin]

 

[TripleB]

Ok, here you go.

View attachment 277454 View attachment 277455 View attachment 277456 View attachment 277457

That's cool as hell

 

[DenMachine]

That's cool as hell

Yes, I fell into this Honda equipped as you see it. It was like winning the lottery! I'm so blessed by this deal last summer that is when no machines were even available to buy. My Honda dealer as of yesterday still does not have any machines to sell other than what is on order.

 

[TexasJackKin]

Just Ordered 20 feet of the prescribed weather stripping from McMaster-Carr, Hope it does the job!

Added weather stripping to front doors, and it seems to have helped a lot for the front passengers, but the back still gets a deep layer of dust in the back. Who's got the solutions for the poor folks in the back?

 

[BrophyCreek]

I added the weather stripping from McMaster to the front and it made a huge difference!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[bumperm]

Added weather stripping to front doors, and it seems to have helped a lot for the front passengers, but the back still gets a deep layer of dust in the back. Who's got the solutions for the poor folks in the back?

Still waiting on mine, but my neighbor, who has a 2020 P1K5, added a back windshield and said it made a significant difference in reducing dust to the rear.

 

[tincangob]

I can open the door and drain water but I couldn't close it hard enough to keep dust out (it pours in through the gap in front doors on a gravel road) so I decided to make my own seals which IMO look as though they could be OEM.

The following were all purchased through Amazon for under $40.

1.3M 4298 Adhesion Promoter, 5 Sponge Applicators
2. 3M VHB Heavy Duty Mounting Tape 5952, 0.5" width x 5yd length
3.3M D-Shape Door Seal 0.59" Height X 0.47" Width, Weather Stripping Hollow Black (10 Feet)



View attachment 92639 View attachment 92640 View attachment 92641 View attachment 92642

 

[tincangob]

I have all the exact material, and I'm ready to install. One question if you don't mind. On the bottom, front of the doors the plastic door gets really narrow. Did you just follow the ridge of the door, or did you go in a bit where you could get where it's flat. I was going to take the tape inside, but the picture looks like you went right down the edge. I assume you went around the door with one contiguous length of tape and door seal material.

Thanks, sorry to pester you.

 

[StewB]

I made a mesh rear windshield. It helps, but there's still a lot of dust piling in back.

 

[301]

I have all the exact material, and I'm ready to install. One question if you don't mind. On the bottom, front of the doors the plastic door gets really narrow. Did you just follow the ridge of the door, or did you go in a bit where you could get where it's flat. I was going to take the tape inside, but the picture looks like you went right down the edge. I assume you went around the door with one contiguous length of tape and door seal material.

Thanks, sorry to pester you.

I used one continuous loop along the very bottom, doesn’t matter how thin the door gets just mold the seal to the door. The s***’s sticky and it will adhere. Never pull on the material or you’ll flatten it out and have gaps. Take your time and let the seal keep its original shape and size around every bend.

 

[301]

Still waiting on mine, but my neighbor, who has a 2020 P1K5, added a back windshield and said it made a significant difference in reducing dust to the rear.

My son-in-law has the SuperATV rear and it does a good job. His only leaks now are the gaps in the plastic around the B Pillar and between the bed and cab.

 

[Spoonbill]

I have all the exact material, and I'm ready to install. One question if you don't mind. On the bottom, front of the doors the plastic door gets really narrow. Did you just follow the ridge of the door, or did you go in a bit where you could get where it's flat. I was going to take the tape inside, but the picture looks like you went right down the edge. I assume you went around the door with one contiguous length of tape and door seal material.

Thanks, sorry to pester you.

Looks like a YouTube video is needed here; I have the same questions

 

[bumperm]

I have all the exact material, and I'm ready to install. One question if you don't mind. On the bottom, front of the doors the plastic door gets really narrow. Did you just follow the ridge of the door, or did you go in a bit where you could get where it's flat. I was going to take the tape inside, but the picture looks like you went right down the edge. I assume you went around the door with one contiguous length of tape and door seal material.

Thanks, sorry to pester you.

I went in a bit, where it is flat, (as you suggested). It's important to apply as much pressure as possible, and then leave it undisturbed for 24 hours or so (it's tough not to try opening and closing the door a few times, but the adhesive really does take some time to reach near full strength).

At least on the Pioneer, the lower front corner of the door is a tight radius. So much so that it will tend to stretch the outer seal edge of the weatherstrip, while compressing the adhesive side. This causes the outer seal edge to move in towards the adhesive, leaving a gap between the seal outer edge and the door frame.

I haven't fixed this on mine yet, but several possibilities come to mind. Firstly, the weather strip is hollow and if water gets in, it won't drain unless there is a hole/s at the lower part. Cut off the weather strip (remove a section at the forward corner radius). replace this with several small sections, each cut at an angle so the adhesive base is shorter than the outer surface (trapezoid shaped). Hold a piece in place without sticking it, to check and see if it'll fill the gap. If it doesn't, use one of more strips of double sided 3M VHB tape to "build up" the door edge to close the gap. Then install several of the short length so seal radius of door.

Also thought about shaping a piece of hard rubber to attach to the floorboard/door frame to provide a seal for the forward edge of the door to come up against.

Been working on other stuff, so it might be awhile until I play with it.

 

[tincangob]

I used one continuous loop along the very bottom, doesn’t matter how thin the door gets just mold the seal to the door. The s***’s sticky and it will adhere. Never pull on the material or you’ll flatten it out and have gaps. Take your time and let the seal keep its original shape and size around every bend.

Hey, thank you very much for the info. I used my Dremel to smooth out the seam, and I should be ready to do the job. You say let the seal keep its original shape, I take that to mean that I should not try to form it around that narrow part in the corner of the doors. Without you input, my instinct would be to bend over the sides of the tape. I may actually get my wife to go on trails again. LOL

Again, thank you.

 

[TexasJackKin]

What's the status of the rear door dust seals talked about in the first few posts on this thread?

 

[Spoonbill]

Thanks for the great pics! How did you fix that speaker in place?? I have the next size up and having problems with securing it?

 

[tincangob]

I can open the door and drain water but I couldn't close it hard enough to keep dust out (it pours in through the gap in front doors on a gravel road) so I decided to make my own seals which IMO look as though they could be OEM.

The following were all purchased through Amazon for under $40.

1.3M 4298 Adhesion Promoter, 5 Sponge Applicators
2. 3M VHB Heavy Duty Mounting Tape 5952, 0.5" width x 5yd length
3.3M D-Shape Door Seal 0.59" Height X 0.47" Width, Weather Stripping Hollow Black (10 Feet)



View attachment 92639 View attachment 92640 View attachment 92641 View attachment 92642

I finally got around to installing the door seals on my P1000-3 as 301 was good enough to provide the pictures and guidance. The job went well, but I may have a 6" area that I might have to re-do. I plan on buying some single sided insulation tape to provide a little better seal on the slight opening at the front, bottom of each door, and I will get the 1/8" or 1/4" thickness depending on the gap.. I thinking of cutting approx. 8 inches of the insulation tape to affix the the door frame for both doors (Amazon's B07S1HXZ4 or similar - many sizes available). I really appreciate the info 301 provided which I followed to a "T". Now for turn signals and something to block the air stream coming in around the shifting levers.

 

[NEfarm_ranch]

I used a weather resistant foam rubber seal from McMaster-Carr (item # 93085K551) it has a 3M adhesive backing. So far it’s held up well and does a dang good job keeping the dust out. Plus it helps the heater out this time of year! I highly suggest cleaning the surface area throughly before installing!View attachment 252979

How many feet of the rubber seal do you need to go around the front half doors. I have a 1000-3 ordered so I can't measure it. I'm also wanting the seal ready to go so I can apply it when it's new and clean.

 

[EMAW]

How many feet of the rubber seal do you need to go around the front half doors. I have a 1000-3 ordered so I can't measure it. I'm also wanting the seal ready to go so I can apply it when it's new and clean.

I think I ordered 10ft (seems like that was the minimum). It has been on my P1k3 for almost a year and has held up well.

 

[tincangob]

How many feet of the rubber seal do you need to go around the front half doors. I have a 1000-3 ordered so I can't measure it. I'm also wanting the seal ready to go so I can apply it when it's new and clean.

Yes, 10' fill do both doors on a P3 and you'll have about 30" left over. I did mine yesterday.