any electricians out there?

L2R

L2R

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I got just what I needed here.

I am all for DIY when I can but I won't skimp on protecting family or investments.

The plan was always to do it right, just didn't know some of this would have to be done over.
 
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JTW

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My shop cost me about $18 a month in electric... it’s on its own meter.
I suspect it would be cheaper to have a new meter set than running a big enough line to the shop. If you haven’t had a quote to do so... get one.
 
seig

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My shop cost me about $18 a month in electric... it’s on its own meter.
I suspect it would be cheaper to have a new meter set than running a big enough line to the shop. If you haven’t had a quote to do so... get one.


Man, that's nice. We're on a co-op in this part of my county, they were gonna charge me $55.00 a month just for the service on a second meter plus usage.
 
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JTW

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Man, that's nice. We're on a co-op in this part of my county, they were gonna charge me $55.00 a month just for the service on a second meter plus usage.
Really? We’re a co-op as well... they charge $18 as a monthly base price, at most I’m $5-10 more than that if I’m out there a lot in the winter months. That’s a 40x60 building and a hot water heater on full time.

I wouldn’t pay $55 plus usage. That’s retarded!
 
Hondasxs

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Just had my meter set in my shop Nov 5th with zero usage so far. Got the bill today.
$17.40 plus taxes.
On a Co-OP as well.
 
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Gator

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I was going to run a feed from the house to my shop.
At the last minute I decided to get a new meter.
If you have any electric heat and a drill press and or a welding machine, you will dim the lights in the house.
I usually run about $25/month with an occasional excursion up to $35.

24" underground is legal and necessary. make that your minimum.
No junction box underground ever.
Wire size depends on the max amperage.
You will have to have 220 and a breaker box. No electrician/inspector is going to approve it otherwise.
 
L2R

L2R

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Whatever you do... don’t put the old electric furnace from the house in the shop and try to heat it that way... I about stroked out!


On tap-a-talk, it looked like you were talking to me.
Doesn't matter, too late, I already in stalled it.
It was toasty warm for about 45 minutes until the fire trucks arrived.
 
nitzo

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You're going to want access to that junction box, I wouldn't bury it. 24" to 30" below grade is standard for conduits. Throw a layer of dirt over them and then run some caution tape along the top of that before backfilling completely. Go with the 1ga copper for 100 amp service, you'll regret it later if you don't.

Everything he said here is good except the copper wire, never ever run copper urd wire. If the wire is copper and you do get a fault it could burn in the ground and not fault for years causing a much higher electric bill. With aluminum wire if you get a fault it will burn in the clear rather quickly and you can find it and make repairs. There is a reason almost every electric company in the country uses aluminum urd wire. I'd go with a 2" plastic conduit pipe with 4/0 wire for the phases with a 1/0 neutral.
 
Smitty335

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Everything he said here is good except the copper wire, never ever run copper urd wire. If the wire is copper and you do get a fault it could burn in the ground and not fault for years causing a much higher electric bill. With aluminum wire if you get a fault it will burn in the clear rather quickly and you can find it and make repairs. There is a reason almost every electric company in the country uses aluminum urd wire. I'd go with a 2" plastic conduit pipe with 4/0 wire for the phases with a 1/0 neutral.
I have a dumb question, We have a red iron shop at home, can I run pvc conduit and metal boxes to ground the fixtures to and still run ground back the panel and be safe? Since all the boxes will be mounted the to the red iron.
 
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nitzo

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I have a dumb question, We have a red iron shop at home, can I run pvc conduit and metal boxes to ground the fixtures to and still run ground back the panel and be safe? Since all the boxes will be mounted the to the red iron.

I'm not sure what you are asking, but I would run a separate ground to every box and also every piece of equipment then tie them all together to the main source ground. Don't depend on mounting boxes to metal frames to provide a ground. I guess I'm saying make sure everything has a dedicated ground.
 
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Smitty335

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I'm not sure what you are asking, but I would run a separate ground to every box and also every piece of equipment then tie them all together to the main source ground. Don't depend on mounting boxes to metal frames to provide a ground. I guess I'm saying make sure everything has a dedicated ground.
Grounds would be run back to breaker ground panel bar and backed up with two ground rods for stray voltage. I always go kick my ground rods every time I go by them to see what condition there in. I will be running electric to our shop in the near future, Separate metered 200 amp under ground service, that way I don't have any worries. I plan to do some kind of hobby shop and with a separate meter the IRS has less to look at!
 
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L2R

L2R

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Well, going to take everyone's advice.
I will leave the wire as is and can move the existing boxes towards the pool using it for pump and lights. That will actually reduce the draw on the 110 and keep me from adding another junction box sitting above ground.

The power company can run power to the shed. I will find a 100 amp box and get whatever I could want in the shop.

Last question, will a 100 amp box run a small ac, lights, power tools , on demand water heater and lights for a bath house? thinking ahead as others suggested?

thanks for all the good advice. Would not have come to this solution without all the input.
 
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Smitty335

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Nice. You can also ohm out your grd rods to make sure you are good, different soil conditions will require a different amount of rods.
That's why I install two.
 
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Smitty335

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Well, going to take everyone's advice.
I will leave the wire as is and can move the existing boxes towards the pool using it for pump and lights. That will actually reduce the draw on the 110 and keep me from adding another junction box sitting above ground.

The power company can run power to the shed. I will find a 100 amp box and get whatever I could want in the shop.

Last question, will a 100 amp box run a small ac, lights, power tools , on demand water heater and lights for a bath house? thinking ahead as others suggested?

thanks for all the good advice. Would not have come to this solution without all the input.
Good thinking!
 
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ohanacreek

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Well, going to take everyone's advice.
I will leave the wire as is and can move the existing boxes towards the pool using it for pump and lights. That will actually reduce the draw on the 110 and keep me from adding another junction box sitting above ground.

The power company can run power to the shed. I will find a 100 amp box and get whatever I could want in the shop.

Last question, will a 100 amp box run a small ac, lights, power tools , on demand water heater and lights for a bath house? thinking ahead as others suggested?

thanks for all the good advice. Would not have come to this solution without all the input.

unless the service is a lot more from power company I’d just put a 200amp service and you won’t have to worry
 
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JTW

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On tap-a-talk, it looked like you were talking to me.
Doesn't matter, too late, I already in stalled it.
It was toasty warm for about 45 minutes until the fire trucks arrived.
Lol.. I wasn’t meaning it was a fire hazard as much as the freaking bill I got that winter! It was the first time I ever attempted heating the shop with it and over the course of about a week. My bill was about $400 out there... it’s insulated well. But apparently heating a 40x60’ with 16’ eves takes a lot of juice to bring up to temp in single digit weather!!
 
Gator

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I have a dumb question, We have a red iron shop at home, can I run pvc conduit and metal boxes to ground the fixtures to and still run ground back the panel and be safe? Since all the boxes will be mounted the to the red iron.
Yes, you can.
 
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