P1000 Catalytic converter removal with pics and videos

Robobrainiac

Robobrainiac

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I agree with your assessment about keeping smooth flow,
keeping the "interior" pipe should help with keeping things cooler?
I used a 2.5"od exhaust pipe, it slides over the cut off cat pipe and into the exhaust can. Keep the reassembled length the same as it was. I clamped the exhaust flange to my welding table and used a framing square to get things lined up. Someone here suggested taking a zip disk and making slits at the cat end of your replacement pipe to be able to tack it in place. once you start it goes together as easy as it came apart.
Hope this helps
In theory the interior pipe would help keep things cool. I would assume by design they attempted that from the factory with the catalytic converter. The machine should run cooler without the catalytic converter and the machine should have a slight more pep. If mine doesn't go back together smooth I will try the slits.
 
Robobrainiac

Robobrainiac

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I finished my cat removal today and edited my previous post to include the pictures. I won't be able to install it for at least a couple of weeks due to my schedule. I got the adapter from autozone and the connector from O'Reilly.
 
bumperm

bumperm

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I haven't removed mine yet, it's on the to-do list. I have a TIG welder and all the stuff I need, so I'll cut it apart and most all are doing.

Have a question for those who've removed theirs already, doubtless the best way cutting and welding. But since many don't weld, do you think it would be doable to use a long drill, or perhaps a punch, to displace, and or remove, enough of the cat's innards to effectively remove it without cutting the muffler open? Looks like it's a straight shot in to the cat. Thoughts?
 
Robobrainiac

Robobrainiac

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I haven't removed mine yet, it's on the to-do list. I have a TIG welder and all the stuff I need, so I'll cut it apart and most all are doing.

Have a question for those who've removed theirs already, doubtless the best way cutting and welding. But since many don't weld, do you think it would be doable to use a long drill, or perhaps a punch, to displace, and or remove, enough of the cat's innards to effectively remove it without cutting the muffler open? Looks like it's a straight shot in to the cat. Thoughts?
My only concern would be emptying the muffler after beating it out. The way the inside of the muffler is designed would make for alot of shaking to get all the debris out. Otherwise I would assume you could beat it out. It is a straight line of sight thru the flanged pipe.
 
bumperm

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If the muffle was positioned so you were drilling upwards, most of the debris would fall out the pipe. My company makes long drill bits for our own use (or used to, I retired 20 years ago). To do that, the back annealed part of the drill is center drilled on the lathe, then a spring steel shaft is silver soldered in that hole and three flats are ground on the distal end to fit in a drill chuck. Long shaft drills are probably available commercially as well.

Just a thought, would be easier for many folk that cutting and welding.
 
Robobrainiac

Robobrainiac

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I talked with my catalytic converter guy. I am not sure what he takes for a cut but he takes catalytic converters and pays you and he turns around and scraps them in for bigger money for himself in the big city 2.5 hours away. So I can understand he offers little. However I have had decent experience with him in the past, he comes to where I work and hands over cash for whatever "core" I may have to turn in. I have made $100-$200 each in the past on converters. He is kind of a neat guy. He literally buys almost anything an automotive "core" could be.

However

He was willing to give $6 for the 2020 Honda Pioneer 1000-5 catalytic converter :/

I called my local scrap yard and they do not pay per model or pound. They pay for quantity. $15 each no matter what it came from.
 
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bumperm

bumperm

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I talked with my catalytic converter guy. I am not sure what he takes for a cut but he takes catalytic converters and pays you and he turns around and scraps them in for bigger money for himself in the big city 2.5 hours away. So I can understand he offers little. However I have had decent experience with him in the past, he comes to where I work and hands over cash for whatever "core" I may have to turn in. I have made $100-$200 each in the past.

However

He was willing to give $6 for the 2020 Honda Pioneer 1000-5 catalytic converter :/

I called my local scrap yard and they do not pay per model or pound. They pay for quantity. $15 each no matter what it came from.

So, if I'm understanding you right, I guess I should cancel the security service I've had guarding my P-1000 against cat theft every night?
 
JenElio

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Just did this tonight and thought I should take some temp readings just for POIDH sake 😂

These were all after about 5 minutes idling....

BEFORE...
IMG 20230713 231241292
IMG 20230712 203225173 HDR


AFTER...
IMG 20230712 203259835 HDR

IMG 20230713 231132651 HDR

So, not a huge difference but it's something 🤷‍♂️ ...sounds a little deeper when you give it gas and we'll see how it acts when I take it out again. All in all any little amount of reduced heat is good in my book 👍
 
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Robobrainiac

Robobrainiac

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I would like to add this forum link here to help coordinate the two in case anyone is attempting to research this topic.

 
ODAMO

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Here is my thoughts on it

Inside the neck of the muffler the catalytic converter is set inside of a neck that directs exhaust into the muffler. If you forego the pipe and weld the neck back in place you could create turbulence in the exhaust rather than directing the exhaust as the OE muffler was designed to do.

Does that make sense?

I should have my pipe pieces today at some point. If all goes according to my mental plan it will aid in my inability to weld.

View attachment 394772





Neck side of the catalytic converter.
Inlet
View attachment 394773



Muffler side of the catalytic converter. The end that seats into the muffler.
Outlet
View attachment 394774
Good info.
I was in the machining/toolmaker biz for over 40 years and not once did I see a digital caliper that would readout in fractions. Learn somethin new every day.
 
bumperm

bumperm

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Good info.
I was in the machining/toolmaker biz for over 40 years and not once did I see a digital caliper that would readout in fractions. Learn somethin new every day.

Of all the digital (and a few dial) calipers I have scattered around, two of them have a fraction mode. I find it completely useless as the fraction displayed is seldom something that "clicks into the old brain to correlate to a value that's worthwhile". Example 109/250, or in other words, "What the heck??". . . now most would know right off what 0.439" is as a quantitative measurement, right?
 
ODAMO

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Of all the digital (and a few dial) calipers I have scattered around, two of them have a fraction mode. I find it completely useless as the fraction displayed is seldom something that "clicks into the old brain to correlate to a value that's worthwhile". Example 109/250, or in other words, "What the heck??". . . now most would know right off what 0.439" is as a quantitative measurement, right?
Calipers for carpenters.
 

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