Stripped mine out when I was adding an accessory, just gave up after a few tries on fix'n it and used tarp straps to hold the cover on, easier to get into now, anyway.
...and... almost off topic, while I was at it I also wired in a two prong trailer electrical pigtail running outside the battery box for future use for my trickle charger, sprayer tank pump hookup, and any other light load requirement. I just don't want to have to be wrestling that cover off for a minor power requirement.
But, dabbing a little Never-Seize on the bolts and stud/nuts hopefully will prove worthwhile if/when I do need to get to the battery.
H
After finally getting my winch installed and wired up I just gotta say WOW. What a piss poor design on Honda’s part on this battery box and location. Absolutely ridiculous. Working on and around that battery will make a preacher cuss on Sunday. Why in the world did Honda not put it under the seat or under the hood. Blows my mind. Come on Honda. My biggest gripe with the entire machine so far. @Mudder anyway you could post a pic what you done with the wing nuts? Also it was near impossible to get the 4 gage wire in there from the winch. Boy did I have a sweat going and cussing messing on that stupid battery. I was glad to see the skids are actually really good from the factory.
J
JTW
Guest
The what are really good? Dude I think you may have inhaled too many battery fumes!
J
JTW
Guest
Someone did a tutorial on the winch hookup.. and I liked how their wires ran so I followed their “lead”.. and you better get your eyes checked because stock skid plates suck on these things! Not as bad as the 1000 because they’re smaller. But they aren’t a skid plate to protect against impact.
H
Well comparing them to my atvs in years past and my first SxS (Kymco 450) they are great skid plates IMO. I mean the main plate under there is at least metal! I was shocked to find metal. Mine is a 2018.
You got a link for those battery wires and breaker you spoke of? Or a pic???
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Mudder
NTC/TAP Transition Member
Lifetime Member
H
Thanks. I will certainly fix those battery box screws. And I’ll relook at the wiring for the power lead going into the box soon as I get a chance. I’ll post some pics up soon of everything. Turned out really good.
Mudder
NTC/TAP Transition Member
Lifetime Member
OEM skidplates were ok,....until the Takeover ride. Recommend Full or at least something like Ricochet Rock Sliders. P500 Turtle now has hard bottom shell.
trigger
Old Ironsides
Vendor
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
I think we all got new skids after the Jackal ride, lol!
J
JTW
Guest
I’m pretty sure I warned y’all! All your rocks got pushed down here during the last ice age!
Alphapup
Member
My wife and I took delivery of a new 2018 P5 2 days ago. We had a blast on the snow covered forestry roads and then.... the battery cover! I read the entire thread and prepared to wire in a battery tender. I smiled when the bottom bolt came out, the top one just spun. After much frustration, I took out the 2 top battery case bolts. The top of the whole battery case was then pulled out enough to get a small flat mirror behind the formerly hidden squareish retainer / nut. I then turned the bolt to get the square "nut" now visable to have one of the left sides of it vertical. I then took a 1/16th drill bit and drilled a hole to the left of the bolt, just touching the bolt. You can see the drill bit passing through the plastic and just missing the square "nut". The drill happens to just miss the side of the square nut and holds it from turning. I removed the drill and put the shank end of the drill back into the hole and pushed it in. I then held the drill bit perpendicular to the case and with a 10mm socket slowly removed the bolt. I hope this helps anyone from tearing the battery case off in frustration.
tomcj2
I forgot the ditch was so close
Lifetime Member
Mudder
NTC/TAP Transition Member
Lifetime Member
Welcome @Alphapup , smart approach with drill bit pin against keeper nut! Wonder if Honda ever reads our Honda feedback posts? Anyone picking up a new machine from their should have them try to remove it before departing dealership, so adding a thread under Buying a P500, ..(wish I knew this before).
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dannyboy
The older I get the better I was
Supporting Member
@Alphapup well done sir. That is the exact procedure I used on our 2017 P500. Both top and bottom bolts in my case. You, however, have explained it much better than I would have. Oh, and welcome from northern Wisconsin.My wife and I took delivery of a new 2018 P5 2 days ago. We had a blast on the snow covered forestry roads and then.... the battery cover! I read the entire thread and prepared to wire in a battery tender. I smiled when the bottom bolt came out, the top one just spun. After much frustration, I took out the 2 top battery case bolts. The top of the whole battery case was then pulled out enough to get a small flat mirror behind the formerly hidden squareish retainer / nut. I then turned the bolt to get the square "nut" now visable to have one of the left sides of it vertical. I then took a 1/16th drill bit and drilled a hole to the left of the bolt, just touching the bolt. You can see the drill bit passing through the plastic and just missing the square "nut". The drill happens to just miss the side of the square nut and holds it from turning. I removed the drill and put the shank end of the drill back into the hole and pushed it in. I then held the drill bit perpendicular to the case and with a 10mm socket slowly removed the bolt. I hope this helps anyone from tearing the battery case off in frustration.
Alphapup
Member
Thank you dannyboy. Nothing like frustration followed by desperation then anticipation and then the resulting suprise that it seems to have worked! An example of the Honda accountants momentarilly distracting the engineers. Why pay more for the 2 bolts when the 2 pieces of metal with a hole comes standard? I feel better now.
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