P1000 Charging with an isolator

[Fdxjettech]

Is there anything I need to know about charging my batteries with an isolator hooked between them?

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

If you wired per instructions.
Then no. There is not.

Recommend trickle charging the primary. Once it gets almost charged the isolator will close (turn on) and start to charge the second automatically.

-------------------------
Here is a recent discussion, If you have time.
There is also some info at the end that states opposite. But I think it is wired using an alternate method.

Dual Battery Charging Question

I had posted this in another forum when I thought I was posting it here. I wondered why I hadn't received much input until finally I got an answer. It was @TxDoc (thanks doc!). He gave me what I think I was looking for. I just wondered if others have had my experience when charging dual battery...

hondasxs.com

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Hondasxs]

I assumed you have a automatic isolator like the True-Am?

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Fdxjettech]

I assumed you have a automatic isolator like the True-Am?

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Yes. The True.

 

[Fdxjettech]

A secondary question if you please.
My soundbar has become main shop radio now. It’s powered off my switched bus. (which explains the battery charging question. ).
Can damage be done to the machine by having the switch in the on position for substantial periods of time with out starting it.

 

[Prntckt]

You could always install an override switch to energize the stinger relay for your auxilary power to avoid leaving the ignition on, to listen to your soundbar in the shop. I did this to my P1000-3 and works well.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Wire it on a second battery and isolated fuse bank.
Don't leave a key on.

 

[bumperm]

What "Cleanlimps" said! If you leave the key on, my understanding is it'll run the hours up on the Hobbs meter (hour meter).

I wired my radio, so that if radio on, it turns on/off with the key switch. In the pic below, there's a little round rocker switch, below the radio, that allows me to turn on the radio when key-off. It does this by applying constant power to the radio's "positive key-switched" wire in when this switch is on. An isolation diode is used to keep the constant positive from back feeding the switched fuse block.

 

[Fdxjettech]

What "Cleanlimps" said! If you leave the key on, my understanding is it'll run the hours up on the Hobbs meter (hour meter).

I wired my radio, so that if radio on, it turns on/off with the key switch. In the pic below, there's a little round rocker switch, below the radio, that allows me to turn on the radio when key-off. It does this by applying constant power to the radio's "positive key-switched" wire in when this switch is on. An isolation diode is used to keep the constant positive from back feeding the switched fuse block.View attachment 310335

That is one clean looking layout. very nicely done. You wouldnt happen to have a link to/or picture of the diode would you? I'm confused as to which type to buy. The booted switches look great also.

 

[bumperm]

That is one clean looking layout. very nicely done. You wouldnt happen to have a link to/or picture of the diode would you? I'm confused as to which type to buy. The booted switches look great also.

Thanks for the compliment!
It was a Shottky rectifier diode I had a bunch of. A small rectifier diode, such as a 1N4007 - would work well ( diode ). If there was ever a non-critical diode application, this is it! Most any small signal or rectifier diode should do. I didn't measure, but current isn't much, as this is not the main feed to the radio, that's the heavier fused wire wire that connects to always on power. The small red wire is just to tell the radio the key switch is on.

The little round booted rocker switch is: switch

 

[bumperm]

Oh, forgot to add on the small "booted" rocker switch: I have two of those out exposed to the sun and weather by a small solar, Pb battery installation to run a fountain pump and electric fence (to keep the bears and herons out of a pond) - the herons like to stand at the edge and nail the fish (it's what they do). However, they'll only try it once when they get zapped! The switches have lasted for two years with no signs of wear.

 

[bumperm]

Here's a crude diagram of the "key override" that lets the radio function normally, i.e. if radio is left on, it follows the key switch. However, if the switch in the diagram is closed (on), then the radio is available when key off.

All wiring for this override switch can be made at the radio, save for running a key-switched to positive wire if none is already available. Function is as follows:

Switch off (as shown), the red wire must receive it's positive voltage from the key switched source on the right (this would normally be from the aux fuse box). With ignition on, the switched positive voltage is felt through the isolation diode and the radio is on (or can be turned on as normal). With ignition off, the switched pos. turns off as does the radio.

Switch on, the +12 volts (on the left) now goes through the switch and is applied to the red "radio control" positive wire. The radio is now available. However, the +12 volts will not be seen on the right side, key-switched source, as it is blocked by the diode.

Sorry for the crude schematic diagram. Any questions, fire away.

 

[Fdxjettech]

Here's a crude diagram of the "key override" that lets the radio function normally, i.e. if radio is left on, it follows the key switch. However, if the switch in the diagram is closed (on), then the radio is available when key off.

All wiring for this override switch can be made at the radio, save for running a key-switched to positive wire if none is already available. Function is as follows:

Switch off (as shown), the red wire must receive it's positive voltage from the key switched source on the right (this would normally be from the aux fuse box). With ignition on, the switched positive voltage is felt through the isolation diode and the radio is on (or can be turned on as normal). With ignition off, the switched pos. turns off as does the radio.

Switch on, the +12 volts (on the left) now goes through the switch and is applied to the red "radio control" positive wire. The radio is now available. However, the +12 volts will not be seen on the right side, key-switched source, as it is blocked by the diode.

Sorry for the crude schematic diagram. Any questions, fire away.



View attachment 310388

That seems pretty easy. With possible exception of the diode. My other plan is to remove my 10 port “switch on” fuse block and replace
It with two six ports. One for switch on power and one for constant hot. Then I can power the stereo off and on through a rocker switch. What do ya think?

 

[bumperm]

Good idea. I took a 12 fuse block apart and cut the internal bar to make it 6 of each. Much easier to buy 2 sixes.

 

[Scoop]

Good idea. I took a 12 fuse block apart and cut the internal bar to make it 6 of each. Much easier to buy 2 sixes.

They also make split bus fuse blocks (e.g., Blue Sea P/N 5032).

 

[Fdxjettech]

Good idea. I took a 12 fuse block apart and cut the internal bar to make it 6 of each. Much easier to buy 2 sixes.

I shouldn’t need a diode at that point should I?

 

[bumperm]

I shouldn’t need a diode at that point should I?

No, but diodes, like a check valve for water, are indispensable for most other things in life (that require a diode!).