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the 33s came on it when bought, so then would it need a gear reduction or stock wheels so the light does not come on? I am not around the machine this week. Just wanted to get some insight.
the 33s came on it when bought, so then would it need a gear reduction or stock wheels so the light does not come on? I am not around the machine this week. Just wanted to get some insight.Your welcome 😂 JK
Yup! Done messed it up with those!
are they the ones you put on? Which ones came with it?
I run 30’s on mine and thats close to max without a gear reduction.
Also….Its not a “Remington” rule lol
I Thank @HBarlow for giving me credit! Im flattered.
Im afraid the POIDH Rule #4 was in place years ago around or just before I joined in 16’ from some other members that have moved on to other ventures that I still stay in contact with. Im just simply carrying the torch and doing the work for the people by the people! 😉
@TS2022 A little forum etiquette and unsolicited advise….
When answering a question to someone, use the reply button at the bottom of there question then type your answer. Otherwise they may not see that you answered. Example, I only knew cuz I came back later just because. But most of the time, people will miss it. Again, Welcome to the Hondasxs club! Post up some pics. Like to see that Rig! There all different in there own way!
Ill start again, heres mine..
View attachment 377919View attachment 377920
If u keep them, you will have to do a gear reduction or portals yes or suffer the same fait. By stepping down a bit in size it might turn your temp light off. But its a start. Id go down to 30’s or lower anyway and see. But there might be a temp sensor thats bad if it was original. Im not 100% sure on all the internal guts to that. @HondaTech might be able to clear that up for ya tho.the 33s came on it when bought, so then would it need a gear reduction or stock wheels so the light does not come on? I am not around the machine this week. Just wanted to get some insight.
I replaced the sensor with a known good one just to rule that out.If u keep them, you will have to do a gear reduction or portals yes or suffer the same fait. By stepping down a bit in size it might turn your temp light off. But its a start. Id go down to 30’s or lower anyway and see. But there might be a temp sensor thats bad if it was original. Im not 100% sure on all the internal guts to that. @HondaTech might be able to clear that up for ya tho.
No.... you don't need OEM wheels/tires or a gear reduction. You might want the gear reduction if you are running BKT's or an aggressive mud tire and play in the mud. Otherwise you'll be fine on 32-33" tires; you'll just notice a bit of a power loss over the stock tire size. You've got something else going on causing that clutch temp light to come on under a load. I've never had the cases apart to change the clutches, but I know when they go there is a ton of clutch material that can clog things up. Sounds like that may be something to look into? It's not your tires.the 33s came on it when bought, so then would it need a gear reduction or stock wheels so the light does not come on? I am not around the machine this week. Just wanted to get some insight.
Had it all apart an cleaned everything. Just stumped on why it’s coming on Under hard accelerationNo.... you don't need OEM wheels/tires or a gear reduction. You might want the gear reduction if you are running BKT's or an aggressive mud tire and play in the mud. Otherwise you'll be fine on 32-33" tires; you'll just notice a bit of a power loss over the stock tire size. You've got something else going on causing that clutch temp light to come on under a load. I've never had the cases apart to change the clutches, but I know when they go there is a ton of clutch material that can clog things up. Sounds like that may be something to look into? It's not your tires.
@HondaTech
@snuffnwhisky
@CumminsPusher
Here's a post from @HondaTech showing the garbage that gets in there and why it is important to clean everything out:
P1000 - Importance of engine cleaning after clutch failure
Pictures of inside the valve body, oil tank and oil pan of Pioneer 1000 after clutch failure. This is why i recommend disassembling and cleaning the rear of the engine after the clutch fails in the 1000 series engine. Flushing will never remove this debris.hondasxs.com
Gotcha. Seems like it's related to flowing enough oil to cool the clutches when under heavy load. Hopefully one of the guys I tagged will have something for you.Had it all apart an cleaned everything. Just stumped on why it’s coming on Under hard acceleration
I appreciate the help. I’ve done everything I know to do. Checked everything I know of.Gotcha. Seems like it's related to flowing enough oil to cool the clutches when under heavy load. Hopefully one of the guys I tagged will have something for you.
It was all cleaned when apart, checked the regulator an it seems to be free an clean. I checked pressures while driving it, spec I believe around 5,000 was 50 psi with 2-3 psi bleed over between both clutch packs. They both were fine. Never had any loss when accelerating hard on it. Clutch line pressure at idle was good. I tried manual mode an it still seems to do it, hard to tell which gear though when getting on it.There are 3 oil pumps. Oil pan pickup tube has one that sends oil to the oil tank. Engine oil pump and Trans oil pump. If the pickup is blocked from clutch material, it will starve both of oil. Oil pressure regulator for the clutch is inside the oil tank. There's a metal screen inside the valve body of the clutch cover that needs to be cleaned. Clutch oil pressure at idle should be over 100 psi.
The 50 psi should be engine oil pressure. I do not believe the book shows how to check the clutch pressure or specs. I manually checked on my pioneer many years ago. Mine was 110 psi at idle and 130 psi at 5k rpm.It was all cleaned when apart, checked the regulator an it seems to be free an clean. I checked pressures while driving it, spec I believe around 5,000 was 50 psi with 2-3 psi bleed over between both clutch packs. They both were fine. Never had any loss when accelerating hard on it. Clutch line pressure at idle was good. I tried manual mode an it still seems to do it, hard to tell which gear though when getting on it.
Thanks for the info, yes I checked the pressure there which is good. Also checked pressures at both clutch pack pressure sensors To make sure I had no pressure loss when driving it. I’ve actually had it apart twice because I thought maybe it was a oring under the clutch packs or sealing ring, but everything was ok even replaced again when had apart. Replaced all solenoid valves and linear valve. Cover bearing is in correct per service manual. I won’t be able to check driving it for a few days.The oil pressure regulator for the engine pump can be removed from the outside of the oil tank, easy. The reg for the trans pump is inside the oil tank. Oil tank has to come off to get to it, PITA.
I had the regulator out for the transmission and cleaned.Thanks for the info, yes I checked the pressure there which is good. Also checked pressures at both clutch pack pressure sensors To make sure I had no pressure loss when driving it. I’ve actually had it apart twice because I thought maybe it was a oring under the clutch packs or sealing ring, but everything was ok even replaced again when had apart. Replaced all solenoid valves and linear valve. Cover bearing is in correct per service manual. I won’t be able to check driving it for a few days.
Pressure is over 100 at idle an around 130 or so at 5,000. I will have to check the wires going to the ecuThe temp sender just sends a ground to the ECU to trigger the light. Make sure those wires are not rubbed through touching the engine or frame also. Trans pressure should be over 100 psi where i checked in the pic above.
The temp sender just sends a ground to the ECU to trigger the light. Make sure those wires are not rubbed through touching the engine or frame also. Trans pressure should be over 100 psi where i checked in the pic above.
Yep. Shared ground going to the sensor and other wire, only 2 to it, goes to ecu. Sensor trips and passes the ground to ecu to trigger the light. Sensor mechanically trips at a set temp to complete the circuit. Common sensor for temp lights and fan control. Already swapped to a known good one so should eliminate the sensor.There isn't any new sensors in the engine/trans on a Talon that aren't in the Pioneer.
From what I've gathered Honda is using the Oil temp sensor in the clutch cover to monitor oil temp and trigger the PCM to turn the clutch "overheat" light on. They didn't add any additional sensors for that function is what I'm getting at.
Wee were talking to another dealership who was trying to run KOH this year with a fresh engine build having this same issue. As far as I know they hadn't resolved, atleast not since I last spoke to them.
That sensor uses the dame ground for all 3 Oil Pressure sensors in the clutch cover as well. I'm beginning to wonder if it's not a ground issue, I believe OP replaced the sensor already so it rules that out. I'm wondering what the sensor is reading and if it really is hot or just reading hot. Since unplugging temperature sensors usually causes high volatge and fans to turn on when used in the cooling system.
If you unplug thay sensor, does the light stay on?