tjoreo
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@Gator @Tramguage1 Do you know what size or part number for the bushing you got from polybushings.com? I found a set of used shocks on ebay yesterday and would like to maybe put them on during the Christmas break. I'm sure it is on here or the other thread but I thought I would ask. Thank you guys for all your input.
Gator
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This is a copy from @green02crew :
polyurethane T bushings by size
Bushing number 2056, 4 of them. They don't come in metric, only standard. They are roughly 24mm OD but need to fit in a 23mm ID shock eye. It's a tight fit. Inside of the bushing is 14mm ID.
STEEL PRECISION TUBE 14mm OD x 300mm LONG 1mm WALL
This pipe, cut into 40mm long sections to use as a sleeve in the bushing. I cut it with a standard pipe cutter, new disc will be needed after cutting steel, oops. The pipe is 14mm OD, 12mm ID with a 1mm wall. You can source it somewhere else but it's hard to find in the US due to metric sizing
The harder part was getting the tubing. It came out of Australia.
Worked nicely.
polyurethane T bushings by size
Bushing number 2056, 4 of them. They don't come in metric, only standard. They are roughly 24mm OD but need to fit in a 23mm ID shock eye. It's a tight fit. Inside of the bushing is 14mm ID.
STEEL PRECISION TUBE 14mm OD x 300mm LONG 1mm WALL
This pipe, cut into 40mm long sections to use as a sleeve in the bushing. I cut it with a standard pipe cutter, new disc will be needed after cutting steel, oops. The pipe is 14mm OD, 12mm ID with a 1mm wall. You can source it somewhere else but it's hard to find in the US due to metric sizing
The harder part was getting the tubing. It came out of Australia.
Worked nicely.
tjoreo
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Thank you very much. I figured I would have to order the bushing, but I'm a machinist by trade so I'll try and make the sleeves. After all of your great reviews on the conversion, I have been watching ebay like a hawk. I picked up all 4 yesterday for about $160 so I figured that was pretty good. Hopefully all goes well. Happy Holidays to you. Thanks again.
Gator
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Tflynn
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Tramguage1
Texan
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tjoreo
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Gator
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Let me give you a piece of advice. Wives don't really want anything for Christmas except your love and a chance to cook you a nice Christmas dinner.
PioneerPete
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I'd like to have your wife talk to my wife please... sounds like I need to get mine straightened out!
tjoreo
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I have to agree with Pete. Please let her talk to mine. Just joking. My wife usually drives our rig alot around town and to school, so when the power steering showed up, she said there's your Christmas so what are you going to get for me!! I told her that was fine, but when she takes the rig, I want her to unhook the power for the steering because it is my present. She said, "I guess it is both of our presents". I am actually a VERY lucky guy, my wife is one of the best one's out there. I pretty biased though, and she is the only one I've every owned.
Tramguage1
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Took me 700-4 by my dealer this weekend. Mitch wanted to check out the shock mod.
He and the service manager took it for a short ride around the dealership where they demo all there Pioneers.
They could not beleve the difference in the ride quality.
They are now activity searching there other dealerships for XT pulloffs.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
He and the service manager took it for a short ride around the dealership where they demo all there Pioneers.
They could not beleve the difference in the ride quality.
They are now activity searching there other dealerships for XT pulloffs.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
L
did anyone ever do a walkthru write up on this? id like to see details on which bushings got replaced, and what is meant by lowest preload... id also like to see how people get the bushings out.. did anybody try putting their bushing in the freezer first to shrink them down... conversely did anybody freeze their sleeves before inserting them into the bushing? i hear freezing metal makes it smaller..idk ijs. can somebody place a link to the write up if so? ive already been thru "the 27 pages of vague trail and error". thanks in advance
The front are stock shocks and springs from a can-am commander. I detailed that earlier on in the thread.
The rear are stock shocks from the same model commander but with high lifter springs for that commander. The only modifications required were bushings and sleeves to fit for the rear shocks only.
polyurethane T bushings by size
Bushing number 2056, 4 of them. They don't come in metric, only standard. They are roughly 24mm OD but need to fit in a 23mm ID shock eye. It's a tight fit. Inside of the bushing is 14mm ID.
STEEL PRECISION TUBE 14mm OD x 300mm LONG 1mm WALL
This pipe, cut into 40mm long sections to use as a sleeve in the bushing. I cut it with a standard pipe cutter, new disc will be needed after cutting steel, oops. The pipe is 14mm OD, 12mm ID with a 1mm wall. You can source it somewhere else but it's hard to find in the US due to metric sizing.
Loose bottom knuckle bolt and remove top knuckle/a-arm bolt to gain room to access. Remove stock Honda shocks, push the stock bushings out of Can-Am shocks using a large and small socket in a bench vice. Then push the new bushing into the shock eyelet using the included grease and a bench vice. Place a socket on one end of the shock eye to push the bushing through. Then grease the 40mm long sleeve and push that into the bushing in the same manner. They will be a tight fit, push hard and use a good vice.
It will look like this when finished:
The new bushings will stretch and be approximately 40mm after being pressed into the shock eyelets so they make a hard fit into the shock mounting points. Some "persuading" with a small crow bar, hammer or screwdriver and I was able to get them into place. If need be you can always spread the mounts slightly. To bolt the knuckle back in on top you'll have to compress the shock a bit by either lowering it onto something or jacking the bottom of the knuckle up then slip the bolt through.
I am still working on bump stops or limiting straps but it's rolling and ready to go.
Hope this is what you need.
The rear are stock shocks from the same model commander but with high lifter springs for that commander. The only modifications required were bushings and sleeves to fit for the rear shocks only.
polyurethane T bushings by size
Bushing number 2056, 4 of them. They don't come in metric, only standard. They are roughly 24mm OD but need to fit in a 23mm ID shock eye. It's a tight fit. Inside of the bushing is 14mm ID.
STEEL PRECISION TUBE 14mm OD x 300mm LONG 1mm WALL
This pipe, cut into 40mm long sections to use as a sleeve in the bushing. I cut it with a standard pipe cutter, new disc will be needed after cutting steel, oops. The pipe is 14mm OD, 12mm ID with a 1mm wall. You can source it somewhere else but it's hard to find in the US due to metric sizing.
Loose bottom knuckle bolt and remove top knuckle/a-arm bolt to gain room to access. Remove stock Honda shocks, push the stock bushings out of Can-Am shocks using a large and small socket in a bench vice. Then push the new bushing into the shock eyelet using the included grease and a bench vice. Place a socket on one end of the shock eye to push the bushing through. Then grease the 40mm long sleeve and push that into the bushing in the same manner. They will be a tight fit, push hard and use a good vice.
It will look like this when finished:
The new bushings will stretch and be approximately 40mm after being pressed into the shock eyelets so they make a hard fit into the shock mounting points. Some "persuading" with a small crow bar, hammer or screwdriver and I was able to get them into place. If need be you can always spread the mounts slightly. To bolt the knuckle back in on top you'll have to compress the shock a bit by either lowering it onto something or jacking the bottom of the knuckle up then slip the bolt through.
I am still working on bump stops or limiting straps but it's rolling and ready to go.
Hope this is what you need.
L
is this top and bottoms bushings on the rear of the pioneer? or just the top bushing? or just the bottom?
To anyone who has done this. Have you noticed, as I have, that the front CV’s bind at full droop? After installing the Can-Am front, and before lowering the jack, I spun the wheel and they’re definitely binding. I was wondering if anyone else has noticed this, and if so, how did you remedy it? Straps?
