Y
That's a damn shame. I love mine. Maybe if purchaser was willing to sign a waiver of liability? P1000 - Cover for shifter holes
W
How come you don't want to sell those you realize how much money he can make I mean there's a lot of people are just got condos that can use that shift and cover especially me hopefully he understands what we're going through
W
C
Y
C
Are you still making these? I would love to buy one if you are, please let me know, thanks
C
I just saw this, thanks for letting me knowSaw a post from him yesterday saying he's not selling them anymore
Plowboy1466
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Build it, sell it with a waiver, and we will buy it!!! Plus it comes with the best customer service EVER!!! Thanks again for your service in Vietnam. And if you decide not to make anymore shifter covers, I understand. I just hate to see a quality product not being made.
Scoop
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
I could be wrong, but I'm going to venture a guess that @Montana isn't a virgin ... 😆
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I'd totally buy one right now!! I hate freezing my hands in the winter 😒
To bad Montana got scared off by that because I think that was probably a dealer issue more than Honda them selves. If it was an issue at all.
J
I'm new to forum and while looking around I came across this cover for thw Pioneer 1000 shifters. Are these still available and if so how can I order one? Thanks in advance.
Well this is a shame. Not being critical of the OP, but I have seen many many many aftermarket parts that were junk, and were obviously not effective, and in some cases you can clearly see that they were detrimental to the vehicle or whatever that it was made for. My opinion is that, if you have a product that people want, then make and sell the product. It is a simple thing to put in your marketing full disclosure that Honda’s stated company policy is that aftermarket parts will void the factory warranty. So, buyer be ware. Still, look at how many aftermarket parts there are for any manufacturer of 4 wheelers and side by sides. And I will bet that almost any after market part for suspension, drivetrain, lifts, steering etc that the manufacturer may very well say that they won’t honor the factory warranty if you have a lifted suspension, or added power steering to a unit that had none, etc. And yet, there are still millions of dollars being spent on modding and upgrading your ride. People do it all the time. Even with DoT legal street vehicles, they mod them and out aftermarket parts in them. If it was me, I would be selling as fast as I could manufacture and ship them. Personally, I think the OP is being a little too over cautious.
Hey Montana, with full respect, do you want to sell your R&D, plans, specs and remaining prototypes and product???
Hey Montana, with full respect, do you want to sell your R&D, plans, specs and remaining prototypes and product???
Help please!
I am very surprised to see this thread active. I bought my Montana covers over a year ago, and shortly thereafter I read that he no longer sold them due to a warranty voiding problem. Therefore, I put my uninstalled original package in the basement since there seemed to be a major problem with the product. Now I find that they really haven't been determined to cause a problem other than the minor risk of the warranty violation. Now I will install if I can figure it out, but I do have a few questions.
Last year when I was investigating how to install, I managed to get the original factory, rubber shift lever backing out of its original position. It is very tight back there and the original rubber is still there, but out of place. Is this a problem? How do you get back behind the dash to tighten the new bolts?
Any tips on how to install would be greatly appreciated. I thought I was halfway mechanically inclined, but the P1000 seems to be a different animal.
Thanks
I am very surprised to see this thread active. I bought my Montana covers over a year ago, and shortly thereafter I read that he no longer sold them due to a warranty voiding problem. Therefore, I put my uninstalled original package in the basement since there seemed to be a major problem with the product. Now I find that they really haven't been determined to cause a problem other than the minor risk of the warranty violation. Now I will install if I can figure it out, but I do have a few questions.
Last year when I was investigating how to install, I managed to get the original factory, rubber shift lever backing out of its original position. It is very tight back there and the original rubber is still there, but out of place. Is this a problem? How do you get back behind the dash to tighten the new bolts?
Any tips on how to install would be greatly appreciated. I thought I was halfway mechanically inclined, but the P1000 seems to be a different animal.
Thanks
M
I grabbed some allen head bots from ace hardware. Worked perfect. Installed mine three years ago.
The dash comes out, easily enough. There are some good YT videos out there. Basically, the push clips on the left and right side fenders have to come out so the fenders come out and free up the dash sides. The rest of the push clips and bolts in the dash also come out. The shift knobs will come off when you twist and pull steady and hard. Pry out the center cap for the steering wheel and pull the nut. Wheel comes off easily. Pull the trim from around the steering wheel, and pull the dash. Pretty simple. Move and set the rubber where you want. Disassemble the stock shift plates from the dash, install the new dash plate. I may have misremembered a step in there, but you should have the dash out in about 10 to 15 minutes. There may be some attachment under the hood, pull the hood and do what you need to. It’s a lot simpler than you think.
Your response is a tremendous help. Thanks, Now I have to think what else I'd like to do if I get the dash off. LOL There are a few switches for accessories that I've avoided seriously considering due to the how difficult the dash is to access. The dealer made taking off the dash sound like a major project.
Well thanks!)) I would humbly suggest that you take a hard look at what all accessories you have, and have planned. If you don’t have a second battery setup and are considering it, I strongly urge you to look at that. It is super simple, and there are several great explanations and videos on here, and YT. The trick is that you will have a battery that runs the side by side, and the spare which runs all your extra accessories. I set up a main power bus bar and a main ground bar. I have most of my accessories run through one stinger relay for the main power, which is controlled by key-on power. Then I have a few accessories that are available through an accessory power switch even when key is off. Such as USB charge ports, and my lighted whips (set for yellow and red, as safety beacons. I use my buggy for work on the pipeline), and 1 12volt power point. So I can run a few things without having to run the motor. I have a few pod lights and a huge light bar up top. All accessories are fused, and all switches go to relays so the switch is not carrying the load. It’s a little extra wiring, but it’s worth the effort. My plans include adding a CB radio, a radio for tunes and weather reports, and another fan or two, to help cool the motor in the summer heat. Already have a heater installed, and I am adding more vents. And I do have a winch, fused and relayed to main auxiliary battery. It’s getting tight behind the dashboard, but if you are going to add more than just a radio for tunes and couple pods and light bar, then you need to take the time, plan it out and do it right. A big 53” LED bar may only pull about 25-35 amps, but if you run it through the switch directly it will wear out the switch eventually. Most switches are rated for 20 amps max, and really should be about 10 amps or less. Learning to draw this out, add in relays and fuses, is not hard. I’ll have to look, there is a member here who has an awesome YT video that shows the dual battery install and it is diagramed out. Very simple and straight forward. He explains everything at a layman’s level, and then walks you through the actual installation.
There are other considerations, when mixing key-on and key-off power systems, the front under-hood air box, winch power system/relay/control solenoid, and trying to shoe horn all of that under the hood. Remember that everything is usually a trade off, and that each system is actually very simple. Main power. Aux power. Main fuse box. Relays. And then you can also look at each accessory as a mini-system. Don’t get bogged down in all the spaghetti wires. Draw it out first, as a schematic just showing the pathways and not the actual physical locations. Get all your main components and put them in place temporarily as a mock up. Do you have the room? Bundles of wires, and thicker wires and cables need more room to turn. How will you change any blown fuses, or bad relays? Do you have everything secured and neat? Are ALL of the positive power terminals/junctions protected from shorting out on a wrench or screwdriver or whatever? Several people relocate the main air box to get more room under the hood. Some use heavy duty velcro to hold the fuse box onto the air box or auxiliary battery, so it can move out of the way when necessary. Remember to leave room for extra length of wires. But not too much! If you want to PM me, we can have a more in depth conversation, if you feel you need the help. There are several posts in various places about everything I have talked about if you want to try to DIY. Just remember, plan your work, work your plan. And look at one thing at a time, instead of the complete spaghetti mess of wires 😂 😎👍👍
K
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