Dual Battery Best Practices/Suggestions

[Bhop81]

I have seen some setups run an isolator to the 2nd battery > 2nd battery to continuous duty solenoid (CTS) > CTS to accessory fuse box > accessory fuse box to accessories. There is key-on power running to the CTS to make the circuit when key on. Any issues with this setup? Or better solutions out there? I guess I could run an off/on switch in place of the solenoid, but I prefer everything cut off when key off. Open to suggestions. Thanks.

 

[Remington]

Open to suggestions. Thanks.

Club store.

Honda SxS Club Online Store

Custom parts and accessories for your HondaSxS! The Honda SxS Club Online Store - Featuring the Honda Talon 1000, Pioneer 1000, Pioneer 700, and Pioneer 500.

store.hondasxs.com

 

[Scoop]

I have seen some setups run an isolator to the 2nd battery > 2nd battery to continuous duty solenoid (CTS) > CTS to accessory fuse box > accessory fuse box to accessories. There is key-on power running to the CTS to make the circuit when key on. Any issues with this setup? Or better solutions out there? I guess I could run an off/on switch in place of the solenoid, but I prefer everything cut off when key off. Open to suggestions. Thanks.

That is exactly the way many members install their AUX battery/isolator/fuse panel.

I would maybe suggest a DPDT Carling switch from the Club store so you can switch between energizing the fuse panel only with the key and energizing the fuse panel (manually) with the key off. There is also a neutral position.

 

[CID]

That is exactly the way many members install their AUX battery/isolator/fuse panel.

I would maybe suggest a DPDT Carling switch from the Club store so you can switch between energizing the fuse panel only with the key and energizing the fuse panel (manually) with the key off. There is also a neutral position.

I have to agree with Scoop , there may be times you want the accessories hot with the key off. The additional switch is worth the effort.

 

[Bhop81]

That is exactly the way many members install their AUX battery/isolator/fuse panel.

I would maybe suggest a DPDT Carling switch from the Club store so you can switch between energizing the fuse panel only with the key and energizing the fuse panel (manually) with the key off. There is also a neutral position.

How

That is exactly the way many members install their AUX battery/isolator/fuse panel.

I would maybe suggest a DPDT Carling switch from the Club store so you can switch between energizing the fuse panel only with the key and energizing the fuse panel (manually) with the key off. There is also a neutral position.

I have to agree with Scoop , there may be times you want the accessories hot with the key off. The additional switch is worth the effort.

What does the wiring look like to add it?

 

[Scoop]

What does the wiring look like to add it?

Start by watching this:

 

[Bhop81]

So if I understand this correctly, instead of running key on power directly to the solenoid, you run KOP to the DPDT switch and run the red wire in the diagram to the solenoid? It says Stinger but I assume that’s just a relay solenoid (continuous) in between the battery and the fuse box?

The switch has an on (manual), off (manual), neutral (key on power)?

Do I have it right?

 

[Hillbillytnt]

So if I understand this correctly, instead of running key on power directly to the solenoid, you run KOP to the DPDT switch and run the red wire in the diagram to the solenoid? It says Stinger but I assume that’s just a relay solenoid (continuous) in between the battery and the fuse box?

The switch has an on (manual), off (manual), neutral (key on power)?

Do I have it right?

View attachment 398820

This is how I have mine wired.

 

[Scoop]

So if I understand this correctly, instead of running key on power directly to the solenoid, you run KOP to the DPDT switch and run the red wire in the diagram to the solenoid? It says Stinger but I assume that’s just a relay solenoid (continuous) in between the battery and the fuse box?

The switch has an on (manual), off (manual), neutral (key on power)?

Do I have it right?

Ed Zachary.

They switch position determines if and when power flows to the relay, be it only when the key is on or from the battery itself (plus the neutral position, which means no power to relay). They relay then energizes the fuse panel (or whatever you decide to use downstream from the relay).

Yes, the Stinger is the CD relay. Quote a few people reported issues with the Stinger, including the unit simply failing as well as it freezing up when temp falls below 32F. I recommend the Cole Hersee 24117 marine rated relay if you can find one. They are in short supply right now and about $15 more than what I paid for one ~2 years ago. They used to be everywhere for $35 or so. I just boug ordered one on 01 AUG and it cost ~$47 delivered from oreillyauto.com. I also noticed that the one I received was made in Mexico now, whereas the one I bought for the Pioneer in 2021 was US made. It was not red, despite the picture and description. It is now rated at 85A instead of 65A like my first one, although I have note tested that yet. Here is a link to the item where I ordered it from.

 

[Scoop]

If you don't want to run a fuse panel and separate relays (for each accessory that needs one), you can use an Auxbeam 8-gang switch unit. The Auxbeam unit is compact and, once installed, makes wiring new accessories a breeze, as it has 8 relays and fuses internal to the unit. After installing, all you need to do for each accessory is run power & ground to the Auxbeam power unit.

If/How you run a CD relay/key-on/DPDT switch to power the Auxbeam is still up to you. I actually have both on my Pioneer, as I found out about the Auxbeam after wiring up most things the other way. My '23 Talon will start with just the Auxbeam (and CD/key-on/DPDT switch) and only use standard Carling switches & relays if absolutely necessary.

 Auxbeam panel on Amazon (also available on our Club store - it costs a little more there, but it does support these forums)

Extension cable for panel if needed

 

[Bhop81]

If you don't want to run a fuse panel and separate relays (for each accessory that needs one), you can use an Auxbeam 8-gang switch unit. The Auxbeam unit is compact and, once installed, makes wiring new accessories a breeze, as it has 8 relays and fuses internal to the unit. After installing, all you need to do for each accessory is run power & ground to the Auxbeam power unit.

If/How you run a CD relay/key-on/DPDT switch to power the Auxbeam is still up to you. I actually have both on my Pioneer, as I found out about the Auxbeam after wiring up most things the other way. My '23 Talon will start with just the Auxbeam (and CD/key-on/DPDT switch) and only use standard Carling switches & relays if absolutely necessary.

 Auxbeam panel on Amazon (also available on our Club store - it costs a little more there, but it does support these forums)

Extension cable for panel if needed

 

[Bhop81]

This is really helpful!

Trying to wrap my head around the wiring for the DPDT switch. Originally I was going to run power from the blue key on power plug to the solenoid relay so all I would have is key on power to the aux battery.

Using the DPDT switch, I’m a little confused on the wiring.

1) Does the switch run off of the aux battery or main battery? I assume AUX, but not 💯.
2) Where do you connect the switch lead for key on power? I assume blue key on connector to the switch.
3) I assume the other switch lead runs directly to the solenoid relay?

I get the concept of the DPDT but not confident I have it right. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

[Hondasxs]

We have a new wire harness designed to help simplify this. It is a pre-wired Aux/Key-on rocker switch unit.
Comes with all the wires you need. Takes the complications stated above and simplifies it down to 2 connections not laid out.
1- A ground, which you can get anywhere.
2 - Key-on power, which can come from the horn wires.
Rest is taken care of in the harness work.

Pre-Wired Relay Control Switch for AUX and Key-on usage. For Stinger, Cole Hersee or any.

Pre-Wired control switch and harness for large relays such as a Stinger, Cole Hersee, or any high AMP relay. This harness was designed to simplify the installation of a control switch for the secondary accessory system (fuse box). Kit allows you to run key-off AUX power upon demand, unit off...

store.hondasxs.com

 

[Hondasxs]

Using the DPDT switch, I’m a little confused on the wiring.

1) Does the switch run off of the aux battery or main battery? I assume AUX, but not 💯.
2) Where do you connect the switch lead for key on power? I assume blue key on connector to the switch.
3) I assume the other switch lead runs directly to the solenoid relay?

I get the concept of the DPDT but not confident I have it right. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

but to answer
1 - either, but recommend the aux. really it doesn't matter seeing its such a low draw item.
2 - yes, blue key-on connector or other source is fine.
3 - yes, the wire that says "stinger" is the relay control wire.

Thanks.

 

[Bhop81]

I’ve got everything all wired up and running like it should. Does the voltmeter stay on all the time? Voltmeter is wired to true isolator.

 

[Prntckt]

I’ve got everything all wired up and running like it should. Does the voltmeter stay on all the time? Voltmeter is wired to true isolator.

View attachment 400884 View attachment 400885

You can wire a relay to the key on power and provide a switched ground from the relay contacts so the voltmeter doesnt stay on all the time

 

[Bhop81]

Do you know where to purchase the right relay? Should have bought the kit.

 

[CID]

@Bhop81 Any standard automotive relay will work, available at your local auto parts store for a few bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/sspa/click?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[Bhop81]

I get the concept but not quite sure how to wire? So in this diagram, 87 runs to the positive on voltmeter for Primary battery? 30 and 86 are run to the Primary battery positive or positive of the primary voltmeter? And 85 is ground. Wiring help greatly appreciated.

 

[CID]

I get the concept but not quite sure how to wire? So in this diagram, 87 runs to the positive on voltmeter for Primary battery? 30 and 86 are run to the Primary battery positive or positive of the primary voltmeter? And 85 is ground. Wiring help greatly appreciated.

View attachment 401020

87 runs to the common on the VM. The other 2 leads on the VM run to the isolator (shown below), pretty sure the VM is stenciled so the main battery will show on the top display. 30 is bridged to 85 and ground. 86 goes to your switched ignition lead. You'll only have one wire on 87, the kit comes with a spare that you don't need.

When you turn the ignition off, the connection between 30 and 87 is broken, dropping the ground to the VM, turning it off even though both Hots stay connected to the VM.

Happy to answer further questions to the best of my ability.