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P1000 Dual Batterys and a horse with no legs

nitzo

nitzo

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I know we have about rode the legs off this horse, but..........
I have two questions if ya'll would be so kind.

Ok, I have the second battery, the true isolator, blue sea fuse block, bussmann 100a circuit breaker, stinger 80a isolator, relays, all the wire and connectors I will need, switch panel and switches. I have about all I will need and I think I understand, pretty much what I need to do. I just have two questions.
I have a dual voltage gauge, I will be getting my power for my stinger from the factory 15a acc. fuse, I understand I can also tap into this line to get the voltage reading for my primary(house battery),

Question 1 : Where do I get the voltage for my second battery/reading from. And is this just straight up wiring to the gauge, two positives and one ground.

Question 2: I am planning on just running everything off my acc. switch, knowing when the key is off nothing will work. Should I run a second circuit to a dpdt switch so I have power when I flip that switch.
I know I will have two feeds then and I saw on youtube where a guy had wired in diodes so he would not get any back feed from the other circuit, Do I need to do this? I'd really like to have the two feeds if it would be a simple wiring job.

Ok guys, there it is.....Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Hondasxs

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1 -
Get second battery voltage anywhere after the stinger once it is engaged. Assuming it is hooked to the second battery.
Primary battery voltage can come from the 15a acc line and will work with key-on.
BUT, if you are using the TrueAm kit with the relay and dual volt. just follow those directions.

2 -
Either a DPDT or SPDT would work if you want to do this.
Do you feel like you have a need for accessories with key off?
Most do. For example. UP would be ALWAYS ON. Middle would be OFF. Down would be KEY-ON.
The 2 feeds thing I think you are talking about is if you want to combine them with just an SPST On/Off switch.
I like DPDT with Indipendiant lights. -->OTRATTW - the Switch Guys Carling Technologies V-Series switches
 
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ehart814

ehart814

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I'm getting ready to do this project, and my list is almost identical to this list. I purchased a DPDT On-Off-On switch to run accessories with the key OFF... still not sure how to wire that.
 
Hondasxs

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EDIT... DPDT is what I use if you want lights to work right.
I think this is correct.
But there is a few ways to accomplish same results. Depending on how u want the lights to work.
Upload 2019 9 11 16 9 4
 
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nitzo

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I'm getting ready to do this project, and my list is almost identical to this list. I purchased a DPDT On-Off-On switch to run accessories with the key OFF... still not sure how to wire that.

Whew.......glad it's not just me. Go figure, I'm a Lineman, I can get power from a substation to a toaster and yet can't wire a 12volt switch......lol.

BTW: where did you get the switch.
 
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P1000 - OnTheJob's P1K-3 Build: "The Pie-O-Near" | The Honda Side by Side Club!

Check out how This guy did his, I almost duplicated it on mine and it is rock solid. I like having the 3 position switch on my main power to my dash switches. If it is in the up position, it is key on and all my switches have power. If it is in the middle, there is no power to any of the switches. All the way down is power from the battery, so I can use my switches with the machine off.
 
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nitzo

nitzo

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P1000 - OnTheJob's P1K-3 Build: "The Pie-O-Near" | The Honda Side by Side Club!

Check out how This guy did his, I almost duplicated it on mine and it is rock solid. I like having the 3 position switch on my main power to my dash switches. If it is in the up position, it is key on and all my switches have power. If it is in the middle, there is no power to any of the switches. All the way down is power from the battery, so I can use my switches with the machine off.


For sure.......Lots of good stuff here.
 
ehart814

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Whew.......glad it's not just me. Go figure, I'm a Lineman, I can get power from a substation to a toaster and yet can't wire a 12volt switch......lol.

BTW: where did you get the switch.

Ebay. Carling DPDT rocker They have a few different colors available. It was like $19
 
RockRain

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Also possibly reconsider the stinger solenoid. Mine just went out and I know there was a few others that have had there's go out too. It's been in for a little over a year and maybe 400 miles.
 
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nitzo

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Hondasxs

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This "should" work for that switch.

I would want the top light to be battery and bottom to be key on.
Both lights would be off when in the middle.
B913972db64c7813a97f80cd52dc5537

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
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ehart814

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Thanks for helping.

I found this one:https://www.amazon.com/Carling-Technologies-Lighted-Connections-Actuator/dp/B07LGMXCC4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14CT89N5G9QMH&keywords=carling+dpdt+rocker+switch&qid=1568329396&sprefix=carling+dpdt,aps,171&sr=8-1

Does it look right? Now how do I wire it for my application. I want the ignition on in one positions, off of course in the middle and just battery in the other position.
Yeah it looks like the one I ordered. I haven't received mine yet so I can't give feedback or much help, yet.
 
nitzo

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Ok ya'll, maybe one more question.;)

As I posted above, I want to have two feeds, one acc power (when key is on), and one battery (so no key is needed just turn the rocker switch on). I've got a 6 place rocker panel dash plate. In the first hole I want to place a Carling 7 pin dpdt on-off-on. I want my two feeds to start here ( I assume). In the next 5 holes I'll be using a combination of Carling, Mictuning and DJI4x4 toggles on-off, all 5 pin, all have the same pin position on the back. I want these all tied together, ie: jumpers......not really sure. Now the question, how do I do it? You guys are really good at making those diagrams and making them easy to understand.

Could someone please, pretty please:D.
 
Hondasxs

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Your getting deep now and I truley wished I had time to help.

Here is a layout for the standard 5 pin
NOTE, If you are using replays the "To Battery" can be jumped off the AUX switch. Otherwise, it needs to be fed from a fuse box. You can combine switches to 1 fuse if low draw. Ex. Dome light, USB, Voltmeter.

Bd4ed8237e
 
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nitzo

nitzo

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Your getting deep now and I truley wished I had time to help.

No,No, don't hurry, I have plenty of time. I am grateful to have the help.

Here is a layout for the standard 5 pin
NOTE, If you are using replays the "To Battery" can be jumped off the AUX switch. Otherwise, it needs to be fed from a fuse box. You can combine switches to 1 fuse if low draw. Ex. Dome light, USB, Voltmeter.

View attachment 156273

Ok, this is good. I think I understand this part, but, I will have a bank of these(5) after the 7 pin. I will be running a blue sea fuse block with relays on every piece of load (LEDS Only)I have. What I am wondering is, how I will wire these toggles in a series that will be powered by either of the feeds (only battery or acc key on) I choose.

Or am I over thinking this and missing a key point here. I want to be able to run everything on either the key on or battery power feeds. And I'm thinking I have to start at the 7 pin rocker and work out from there.

Thanks
 
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Hondasxs

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I recomend installing a large constant relay and using that to power the fuse box.

The AUX switch will then ONLY trigger the relay to closed.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
RockRain

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No,No, don't hurry, I have plenty of time. I am grateful to have the help.



Ok, this is good. I think I understand this part, but, I will have a bank of these(5) after the 7 pin. I will be running a blue sea fuse block with relays on every piece of load (LEDS Only)I have. What I am wondering is, how I will wire these toggles in a series that will be powered by either of the feeds (only battery or acc key on) I choose.

Or am I over thinking this and missing a key point here. I want to be able to run everything on either the key on or battery power feeds. And I'm thinking I have to start at the 7 pin rocker and work out from there.

Thanks
20180307 070559


So maybe this image will confuse you more or if you stare at it long enough like I have too it might start to make sense. So this is a diagram that I drew while I was doing mine that helped me visualize what needed to be done and if I ever had to troubleshoot later I had some way of remembering what I did. So if you look at the center switch for batt 1 and batt 2, I believe that is how I have it wired to accomplish what you want to do as well. Here is what the switches look like on the back side physically. So if I understand what you are asking correctly, run a ground up to your main switch and then jumper that switches ground to all the others. Then look at how I have the battery and ignition wires running to that dpdt switch so you can have control of ignition or aux battery to run all your accessories.
20180908 142707
 
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