Edit: HELP! First trip transmission problem.

[Cestratton]

My first trip out brand new 2021 1000r Live Valve and on high speed roads the transmission won't shift out of 3rd and 25mph is max speed ound out. Seat belt is on. Manual mode works but when I come to a stop the engine dies and overheat warning light comes on. Fan runs and engine temp is showing 2 dots out of 4. Works fine on the trail going from 1st to 2nd as needed just when trying to go fast on a gravel road.

 

[Admin]

 

[PaulF]

Kinda hard to diagnose without DTC's and your description is a little unclear. Not sure if you have 3rd gear or not but the last sentence makes it seems like you only have 1st and second gear. This can mean the transmission can't shift (only change from the 1,3,5 clutch to the 2,4,6 clutch).

Possible causes...

• Lose battery cable(s). Make sure they are good and tight.
• Lose ground(s). Check all the ground wires for corrosion and make sure they are tight. There are 2 on the left side of the engine, one just left of the engine on the frame and a cluster of them under the driver seat.
• A malfunction with shift solenoid 1 and/or 2. These are behind the clutch cover assembly so you can't check the connectors unless you remove the cover however the most common cause is a wire harness connector not fully plugged in. If the battery cables/grounds do not solve the problem, check the Linier Shift harness, there is a 12 pin connector somewhat hidden under the crossmember just behind the engine (just below and in front of the sway bar). Make sure all the wires are correctly inserted into the plugs and it is fully plugged in. There have been several instances where a wire was not fully "engaged" into the plug causing various problems.

Not a very good pic but this is looking back...

If you can get the DTC's, I can walk you through the diagnostics if you want.

 

[Cestratton]

It performed fine on the trail going from 1st to 2nd but when I got on a gravel road it wouldn't get passed 3rd and ~25mph. I tried shift mode and she would go through the gears but when I stopped the engine died and the transmission or drive shaft made a couple hard clunks. I had the engine temp display up (the four dots) and tried automatic to limp back she got to 3 dots so as I pulled over she hit 4 dots, light came on, and coolant started spewing out of the overflow tube in front of passenger side foot well. I sat for about an hour until the overflow tank settled to almost empty and drove back in manual keeping as high of a gear as it would let me in order to keep rpms low, she stayed at 2 dots on the temp guage. I had to make about a mile highway run and in 6th she wouldn't get over 53 wide open and lost speed going up a slight hill to 40 mph. When I pulled into the parking area as I was down shifting she died and made the clunking sounds again. Luckily I was able to get to the dealer within 10 minutes of them closing and dropped it off. Every time she hung up in 3rd or 4th I would stop and then she wouldn't get out of 1st unless I turned it off and restarted. I'm not even sure she ever got to 4th but if she did she damn sure never got passed it unless in manual.

 

[LilRedDonkey]

brand new, take it back let them fix it!!!!!

 

[Cestratton]

brand new, take it back let them fix it!!!!!

Yea made it there about 10 minutes before close and dropped it off. They're closed on Monday so I'll be on pins and needles until I get a call to tell me what they found.

 

[Cestratton]

Dealer called and said when transmission is cold it goes through the gears as it should but once it gets up to temp it won't shift past 3rd. According to him the 2021 has a 6 pin connector to hook up to the computer and they had to order it. So basically they can't diagnose the problem until that connector comes in Thursday or Friday. At least they were able to replicate and confirm that there is an issue. He said all electrical connections and grounds were good and fluids looked good as far as not being burnt. Guess the wait continues.

 

[Spektrum84]

Last year on the Colorado trip, some P1K's had overheating problems while all other units in the train were sitting steady at 2 bars. I don't know if the issues were ever resolved with those vehicles but I think the consensus was trapped air in the coolant lines.

 

[Cestratton]

Last year on the Colorado trip, some P1K's had overheating problems while all other units in the train were sitting steady at 2 bars. I don't know if the issues were ever resolved with those vehicles but I think the consensus was trapped air in the coolant lines.

Mine was overheating because the transmission wouldn't shift passed 3rd gear and would down shift straight to 1st and not come out. Brand new machine first trip out from showroom floor. Manual mode worked but engine would die once I came to a stop. Because it's new to me I really didn't know what to expect and yes I rode it in 3rd waiting for it to shift, three lights came on and as I slowed to stop it shifted straight to 1st and went to high rev immediately causing the overheat light to come on right as I was turning the key off and it started spewing.

 

[Cestratton]

Kinda hard to diagnose without DTC's and your description is a little unclear. Not sure if you have 3rd gear or not but the last sentence makes it seems like you only have 1st and second gear. This can mean the transmission can't shift (only change from the 1,3,5 clutch to the 2,4,6 clutch).

Possible causes...

• Lose battery cable(s). Make sure they are good and tight.
• Lose ground(s). Check all the ground wires for corrosion and make sure they are tight. There are 2 on the left side of the engine, one just left of the engine on the frame and a cluster of them under the driver seat.
• A malfunction with shift solenoid 1 and/or 2. These are behind the clutch cover assembly so you can't check the connectors unless you remove the cover however the most common cause is a wire harness connector not fully plugged in. If the battery cables/grounds do not solve the problem, check the Linier Shift harness, there is a 12 pin connector somewhat hidden under the crossmember just behind the engine (just below and in front of the sway bar). Make sure all the wires are correctly inserted into the plugs and it is fully plugged in. There have been several instances where a wire was not fully "engaged" into the plug causing various problems.

Not a very good pic but this is looking back...
View attachment 280721

If you can get the DTC's, I can walk you through the diagnostics if you want.

Dealer hooked it up but no codes are showing yet they are able to replicate the symptoms. Said they're going straight to Honda for technical.

 

[Cestratton]

Dealer called today. The machine had low compression but showed no signs of low compression, can't remember the number. Honda tech line told them to check valves, springs, and adjustment which all checked out and compression came up to 110 but no low compression symptoms (supposed to be 140?). All the new info was sent this morning from dealer to Honda tech line. I called Honda CS and found out my case number and was told that today (takes 24 hours to upload) Honda has directed the dealer to reset PCM, check E-valve, and initialize the clutches. My question is if it was and still is low on compression like they say and the valve train was in spec 1) why no low compression symptoms 2) how did it magically increase and 3) how will reflashing increase the compression?

 

[Ugly]

Thanks for giving the members and update. We can sympathize with trying to get answers to this problem. Wish you had better news.

 

[Jerryg]

Dealer called today. The machine had low compression but showed no signs of low compression, can't remember the number. Honda tech line told them to check valves, springs, and adjustment which all checked out and compression came up to 110 but no low compression symptoms (supposed to be 140?). All the new info was sent this morning from dealer to Honda tech line. I called Honda CS and found out my case number and was told that today (takes 24 hours to upload) Honda has directed the dealer to reset PCM, check E-valve, and initialize the clutches. My question is if it was and still is low on compression like they say and the valve train was in spec 1) why no low compression symptoms 2) how did it magically increase and 3) how will reflashing increase the compression?

Did they check the compression with or without the decompressor engaged?

 

[Cestratton]

Did they check the compression with or without the decompressor engaged?

Not sure but I'm thinking the computer has the timing off and hopefully a reset will take care of my problems. Like I said earlier in the thread when I ran in manual in 6th on the road about 52 was all she'd do and the slightest hill made her drop to about 46 pedal to the floor.

 

[HondaTech]

Did they check the compression with or without the decompressor engaged?

The decompression release os automatic, theres no way to disengage these machines.

 

[Jerryg]

The decompression release os automatic, theres no way to disengage these machines.

There has got to be a way to defeat it?

 

[HondaTech]

There has got to be a way to defeat it?

Its made onto the camshaft. Unless you were to remove it all together, then the engine would have difficulty cranking fast enough.

 

[Jerryg]

Its made onto the camshaft. Unless you were to remove it all together, then the engine would have difficulty cranking fast enough.

Couldn't you just loosten a rocker?

 

[DAJO]

The numbers Honda publish, does it not take compression release effect on the number? Or do they not give a compression number in the manual.

 

[Jerryg]

The numbers Honda publish, does it not take compression release effect on the number? Or do they not give a compression number in the manual.

I think it gives you both but the only true way to get an accurate number is to disable the compresion release.

Otherwise valve timing can effect your number.

 

[Cestratton]

So dealer removed and reattached all grounds and said the transmission is shifting through all gears in automatic. But when they got to 50mph the water temp started rising and once back to the shop it started spitting coolant again. Same thing when it overheated for me was while it was running. Dealer said they previously let it idle for 3 hours and temp never got above normal so it's overheating while moving. They claim no air in the system and the fan is turning in the right direction. They ordered a new thermostat and said if that doesn't work next would be water pump. Thoughts from any techs on here?