Engine Oil

[Mlaz81]

All those years I was self employed and worked on power strokes and Cummins I always used 15w40 diesel oil. I used which ever Advanced Auto had on sale,not shell rotella, not Dello 400, and I never ever had an oil failure.

Did you use it with a wet clutch?

 

[DG Rider]

@Farmer
The p1k also has a wet clutch but it is different in that it has a new type of control circuit for the clutch.
There is no history out there...

Elaborate on what you mean by control circuit if you can? I was under the impression the P1K's clutches were conventional piston/drum set up just like the 700's (and many other auto trannies) controlled by pulse-width-modulated valving.

I have not seen any post to date showing a quality oil failed to provide protection vs. most engine related problems resulted from abuse, i.e., hydro lock, or similar.

Exactly!

 

[Mopower58]

Did you use it with a wet clutch?

Never have with a wet clutch but both my mowers,tractor and both generators / Honda and Yamaha use it. My point was that just because it has a "special" name does not make it any better than an oil with the same specs but a lesser name.

 

[Farmer]

Ok, I FOUND IT! My last read was in january but it is here now for you guys to pick apart. As stated above I am using "both" types of oil so I clearly am not picking a side here. Enjoy...

Do I need to use JASO certified "motorcycle" engine oil in my bike?

 

[LarryAmboy]

My Dads fatherly lesson some 40 odd years ago...
"What's the best oil Dad?"..."Clean oil"
"How often do you change your oil Dad?"..."when it's not clean oil" lol

Yep, I ask my powerstroke mechanic about Dino vs synthetic oil and his comments were similar to your dads and he added that if you do the cost differential between Dino and synthetic, that it might be cheaper to do a long block every 250,000 to 300,000 Miles rather than synthetic


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[jinx]

Yep, I ask my powerstroke mechanic about Dino vs synthetic oil and his comments were similar to your dads and he added that if you do the cost differential between Dino and synthetic, that it might be cheaper to do a long block every 250,000 to 300,000 Miles rather than synthetic


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I'm not going to say my Dad didn't have preferred oils because he favored Valvoline then Quaker State for years, but he would press the point of keeping the oil checked/changed regardless of brand. He would say clean cheaper oil beats dirty expensive oil

 

[Mlaz81]

Thanks everybody. I think I'm going to stick with yamalube 10w-40

 

[ZZ15]

Amsoil does not make any oil, they just buy and package it.

Not 100% factual. While they don't refine oil they do purchase base oils and additives and they design and manufacture their oils in Superior, Wis and have been since 1972, some time before Mobil 1 came to market circa 1974. They do not buy oil and repackage it. One thing about AMSOIL is that they are one of very few independent oil companies left (Royal Purple & Redline sold out to petroleum oil companies). AMSOIL is not beholden to stockholders (privately owned) and forced to use base oil and additives from their parent oil company. They are free to search the world over for the best additives, some of which many others are unwilling to invest in.

I have used AMSOIL since 1975 in all my vehicles and never anything else. I have also used it in Honda ATV's for over 18 yrs (Ranchers & Rincons) and never had one issue.

►About AMSOIL

 

[KYhillbilly]

They do not just relabel but they do not manufacture the additives or base oils. They purchase and then custom blend to their specs. It is a great product don't get me wrong but it is nothing that special to warrant the price. I have been in the refining/lube oil/additive business for 27 years and could write books about who makes what and how and what additive packages are used. I have also been involved in extensive wear testing and long term testing and any quality oil will work. Key is just taking care of what you have with regular maintenance.

 

[swsebek]

They do not just relabel but they do not manufacture the additives or base oils. They purchase and then custom blend to their specs. It is a great product don't get me wrong but it is nothing that special to warrant the price. I have been in the refining/lube oil/additive business for 27 years and could write books about who makes what and how and what additive packages are used. I have also been involved in extensive wear testing and long term testing and any quality oil will work. Key is just taking care of what you have with regular maintenance.

What do you use

 

[ZZ15]

AMSOIL chose early-on to make the best product, not provide the lowest price. Anyone CANNOT make the best product.

 

[Mudder]

Found this a while back. After break in, put in Mobile 1 synthetic, good or bad... its in there. Mud, deep water, poor maintenance and rough riding style likely causes more machine problems than any certified oil, but thats why we bought these to play in the dirt. Have fun..Its a Honda!

 

[KYhillbilly]

What do you use

I use Rural King synthetic $12.00 for 5 quarts. Its Warren Lubri gold synthetic. Did a lot of research when associated with Valvoline and now have analyzed the data from several oil testing companies and for normal application there is no difference when changed at normal intervals. Have analyzed the iron levels in the oil when fresh and at oil change and no statistical difference between any oil. Some oils will cherry pick data as they have lower starting iron levels to make it look like they have less wear but if you look at the delta between starting and ending there is no difference.

In refineries and chemical plant in pumps and turbines we have used everything from Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, to you name it and their was no noticeable difference in reliability the key is proper PM, same with a car or UTV.

 

[trigger]

Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil 1,

The big 3! Glad to see my brand is in there, I'm a Royal Purple guy. Thanks Hillbilly.

 

[JTW]

I use Rural King synthetic $12.00 for 5 quarts. Its Warren Lubri gold synthetic. Did a lot of research when associated with Valvoline and now have analyzed the data from several oil testing companies and for normal application there is no difference when changed at normal intervals. Have analyzed the iron levels in the oil when fresh and at oil change and no statistical difference between any oil. Some oils will cherry pick data as they have lower starting iron levels to make it look like they have less wear but if you look at the delta between starting and ending there is no difference.

In refineries and chemical plant in pumps and turbines we have used everything from Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, to you name it and their was no noticeable difference in reliability the key is proper PM, same with a car or UTV.

Any brands to stay away from?

 

[BigOL3]

I believe in the old redneck saying ....... if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

EVERY bike/atv I have owned has been Honda, starting in '67. I always used good oil, various brands. That is until my first diesel truck in about '90. I started running Rotella in it and to keep things simple I put Rotella in EVERYTHING .... dino, not synthetic ..... from mowers on up. It is in my '18 P1K5 and running PERFECT, including clutch/transmission.

Yeah, I know, it is not motorcycle oil ...... blah, blah, blah ..... lol.

 

[BigOL3]

Ok, I FOUND IT! My last read was in january but it is here now for you guys to pick apart. As stated above I am using "both" types of oil so I clearly am not picking a side here. Enjoy...

Do I need to use JASO certified "motorcycle" engine oil in my bike?

That article pretty much backed up what I knew to be the case ....... quality 'diesel' oil is about as good as it gets.

"In fact, ANY oil on the shelf that is marketed towards cars or diesels, and has a recent certification such as SM or GF-4, will easily pass the meager requirements of JASO T904"

"The latest service category for heavy duty engine oil applications is the ILSAC (International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee) is the GF4 certification.It should be clear to you from the above certification requirements that the GF4 standards are far more stringent than that of either SM or JASO certifications. Heavy duty engine oils are just that…heavy duty. And they are formulated in a way that will serve the needs of four stroke dirt bike engine just fine. This is why we see so much evidence of riders having great luck with the heavy duty engine oils such as Shell Rotella T and Mobil Delvac. Not to mention that the prices of these HDEO’s are very reasonable."

 

[DG Rider]

Any brands to stay away from?

Asstroglide 20-50

 

[JACKAL]

I’m confident data exist to show wear differs between various oils and I’m not going to get into which is better.

As for myself, I use GN4 and have been running Honda’s for 40 years without a single oil related failure and suspect that trend will continue.

Ditto, 43 years of Hondas for me recommend the GN4 10-w40. I have tried synthetic in a Honda wet clutch didn't work out so well for me, oil may have had nothing to do with it but it was awful coincidental.

 

[JACKAL]

That article pretty much backed up what I knew to be the case ....... quality 'diesel' oil is about as good as it gets.

"In fact, ANY oil on the shelf that is marketed towards cars or diesels, and has a recent certification such as SM or GF-4, will easily pass the meager requirements of JASO T904"

"The latest service category for heavy duty engine oil applications is the ILSAC (International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee) is the GF4 certification.It should be clear to you from the above certification requirements that the GF4 standards are far more stringent than that of either SM or JASO certifications. Heavy duty engine oils are just that…heavy duty. And they are formulated in a way that will serve the needs of four stroke dirt bike engine just fine. This is why we see so much evidence of riders having great luck with the heavy duty engine oils such as Shell Rotella T and Mobil Delvac. Not to mention that the prices of these HDEO’s are very reasonable."

Rotella T6 did in my wet clutch


As for the rest ....