Engine Oil

[BigOL3]

Rotella T6 did in my wet clutch
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As for the rest ....
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I am not familiar with T6, but my '18 is purring like a kitten with the 15-40 dino.

 

[DG Rider]

T6 I polarizing stuff. Maybe because it doesn't cost a fortune.

Got in a debate not too long ago on FB about it where someone called it "garbage oil". I ask for facts to support that claim, and the person proceeded to start talking about his degree in engineering, etc...but no facts or data. I doubt any engineer would make such statement to start with...but such a defence always pegs my BS meter.

And the same folks who get bent about running T6 will brag about how they've never had their valves adjusted because "sound".

 

[JACKAL]

T6 I polarizing stuff. Maybe because it doesn't cost a fortune.

Got in a debate not too long ago on FB about it where someone called it "garbage oil". I ask for facts to support that claim, and the person proceeded to start talking about his degree in engineering, etc...but no facts or data. I doubt any engineer would make such statement to start with...but such a defence always pegs my BS meter.

And the same folks who get bent about running T6 will brag about how they've never had their valves adjusted because "sound".

I think Rotella T6 is a fine oil for it's advertised application in diesel engines. I have used it for over 800k miles in my last 3 trucks. As part of it's protection properties is a molybdenum content of approximately 200 ppm.

The top 2 "energy conserving" "protective" oils are 400 to 600 ppm molybdenum content which are definitely a no no in an engine with a wet clutch.

Honda GN4 oil is sub 50 ppm molybdenum content.

I attributed heat combined with the higher molybdenum in the T6 that glazed my clutch packs and a ran it until the friction material was gone on clutch 1.

All those PPM levels were from dozens of Blackstone oil analyses submitted in a forum. I will see if I can dig it up, I had it stashed away here in a 2 yr old conversation with people smarter than me who pointed it out.

 

[DG Rider]

I think Rotella T6 is a fine oil for it's advertised application in diesel engines. I have used it for over 800k miles in my last 3 trucks. As part of it's protection properties is a molybdenum content of approximately 200 ppm.

The top 2 "energy conserving" "protective" oils are 400 to 600 ppm molybdenum content which are definitely a no no in an engine with a wet clutch.

Honda GN4 oil is sub 50 ppm molybdenum content.

I attributed heat combined with the higher molybdenum in the T6 that glazed my clutch packs and a ran it until the friction material was gone on clutch 1.

All those PPM levels were from dozens of Blackstone oil analyses submitted in a forum. I will see if I can dig it up, I had it stashed away here in a 2 yr old conversation with people smarter than me who pointed it out.

Which weight was tested? A quick Google shows 5-40 at approximately 60 ppm from different sources, but I did not pay attention to the age of the posts, so who knows.

 

[JACKAL]

Which weight was tested? A quick Google shows 5-40 at approximately 60 ppm from different sources, but I did not pay attention to the age of the posts, so who knows.

I was using and referring to 15-w40 Rotella T6 full synthetic oil.

 

[HappyCamper]

Good discussion here boys. Here's my $.02, I've had about 50-55 cars and trucks over the years and have been running Mobil 1 in everything from my lawn mower to my Porsche since 1974. I have kept up on most of the oil formulations out there over the years and have recently switched from Mob1 to Pennzoil Platinum as I've ascertained it is probably the best out there as of this writing. In my Diesel PU I run a synthetic also, Triax Fleet Supreme 15W-40, and I change it out every 12000 miles, although it is rated for 25,000 for PU trucks and 80,000 for over the road haulers. I've run many samples of oils through infrared spectroscopy, particle counting and patch microscopy testing and have found that most all of us are changing our oils way before they have run out of usefulness. I'm going to do an oil analysis on my next change from my 1000/5 and see what the numbers say. I've just changed my oil to Pennz Plat. last month so it'll be a while before I test it but, I'll post those numbers as soon as I get them back. It should be interesting!

 

[JTW]

Good discussion here boys. Here's my $.02, I've had about 50-55 cars and trucks over the years and have been running Mobil 1 in everything from my lawn mower to my Porsche since 1974. I have kept up on most of the oil formulations out there over the years and have recently switched from Mob1 to Pennzoil Platinum as I've ascertained it is probably the best out there as of this writing. In my Diesel PU I run a synthetic also, Triax Fleet Supreme 15W-40, and I change it out every 12000 miles, although it is rated for 25,000 for PU trucks and 80,000 for over the road haulers. I've run many samples of oils through infrared spectroscopy, particle counting and patch microscopy testing and have found that most all of us are changing our oils way before they have run out of usefulness. I'm going to do an oil analysis on my next change from my 1000/5 and see what the numbers say. I've just changed my oil to Pennz Plat. last month so it'll be a while before I test it but, I'll post those numbers as soon as I get them back. It should be interesting!

I ran the penzoil platinum in my last truck. It did fine but then I never tested it either

 

[mjn]

I ran the penzoil platinum in my last truck. It did fine but then I never tested it either

Well, that's a pretty worthless comment. You didn't even test it? We're not even talking about trucks.. why did you post? 😇

 

[JTW]

Well, that's a pretty worthless comment. You didn't even test it? We're not even talking about trucks.. why did you post? 😇

You sound like a woman...why did you do this, why did you do that? Women ask why... men ask, WHY NOT!!?

 

[70Bones]

Ok, I FOUND IT! My last read was in january but it is here now for you guys to pick apart. As stated above I am using "both" types of oil so I clearly am not picking a side here. Enjoy...

Do I need to use JASO certified "motorcycle" engine oil in my bike?

THis dude really adds confusion, by wasting 10 minutes of my time to say that "And as long as the components of the oil do not cause a problem with the wet clutch assembly of a bike, SM rated oils should be every bit as good,". We use JASO MA because that is the only way we have to know that the oil won't hurt our clutches, not because it's the best oil in the world. I guess trial and error with any non-JASO oil would be another way to know that a certain oil won't hurt our clutches, but who wants to go there...

 

[70Bones]

T6 I polarizing stuff. Maybe because it doesn't cost a fortune.

Got in a debate not too long ago on FB about it where someone called it "garbage oil". I ask for facts to support that claim, and the person proceeded to start talking about his degree in engineering, etc...but no facts or data. I doubt any engineer would make such statement to start with...but such a defence always pegs my BS meter.

And the same folks who get bent about running T6 will brag about how they've never had their valves adjusted because "sound".

lol, this is who you were arguing with...

 

[DG Rider]

lol, this is who you were arguing with...
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Debate....it was a DEBATE! And you're probably 100% right.