P500 EZ steer power steering motor mount flex?

pFive

pFive

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I am installing EZ steer and it looks to be clearing everything under the hood, but the motor still flexes the mounting plate, even while sitting in the slick floor without me in it. I have it installer per the instructions, it looks just like the photos and I cant see any collision points, but this much movement seems sketchy to me? It looks exactly like the instructions, but something does not feel right. How much movement do you get? Do you feel any "Thump" at any point?
 
Bad_bowtie

Bad_bowtie

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Mine seemed to have a fair amount of flex to it but dont recall ever having a "thump".
 
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DG Rider

DG Rider

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There was a thread about this not too long ago but i can't find it. I think the fix involved loosening bolts (on the shafts?) and letting the whole thing self center into its happy spot.
Maybe someone involved in that will chime in soon.
 
Mudder

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@DG Rider has it right, took me a few tries loosening up bolts and shafts to find the sweet spot, thump at first, now none. Working fine after 1.5 years. Patience pays off, well worth it.
 
trigger

trigger

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I even called SuperATV about it when I installed mine and they said the flex was normal due to confined space and such short shafts. Just loosen the top one that hooks to steering shaft, go full turns in both directions, as stated find the sweet spot and cinch it back down. Should be good to go.
 
pFive

pFive

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I found that the U-joint was too far onto one of the shafts and was hitting it's knuckle when I turned. The part that pisses me off is those cheap china bolts in the U-joints are crap. If you buy a new kit throw those away and chase the threads with a tap prior to assembly. My lowest pivot bolts destroyed themselves when I went to take it back apart.
 
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JWB

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I found that the U-joint was too far onto one of the shafts and was hitting it's knuckle when I turned. The part that pisses me off is those cheap china bolts in the U-joints are crap. If you buy a new kit throw those away and chase the threads with a tap prior to assembly. My lowest pivot bolts destroyed themselves when I went to take it back apart.
I have someone else's version of the same thing, and I totally concur on cheap bolts. When I took my steering box out, the bolts were all chewed up, and I ended up wringing them off during disassembly. I replaced them with stainless bolts, but like the other guys said, keep everything loose and let it get itself all centered up before snugging it all up. I did mine incrementally and made sure it didn't have issues after tightening each part. It was a little fiddly (is that a word?) but it seems to work very smoothly, and I haven't had any issues with the P.S. unit.
 
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pFive

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If the lower shaft had a slip joint like the upper it would be a much better kit. As it is the lower shaft is just a tick too long considering the "Sandwich" style mounting method they provide, by the time you tighten it down no two machines have the same true location. I think having the motor also supported by the upper cross member would make for a much more precision installation.
 
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nctrailboss

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I used grade 8 ,1/4 inch bolts and nuts to pinch the lower joints.This allowed both to slide a little further on the shafts and allowed everything to fit in a relaxed fit.I have no flexing at all in the motor mount.My motor plate was almost 1/4 inch higher than the shock cross member before changing the lower bolts.It would have put things in bad bind had I clamped it down that way.
 
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pFive

pFive

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I used grade 8 ,1/4 inch bolts and nuts to pinch the lower joints.This allowed both to slide a little further on the shafts and allowed everything to fit in a relaxed fit.I have no flexing at all in the motor mount.My motor plate was almost 1/4 inch higher than the shock cross member before changing the lower bolts.It would have put things in bad bind had I clamped it down that way.
I will try that since mine is apart right now anyway. Good tip.
 
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