P1000 Front end loose? Sloppy steering?

[JTW]

I’m sure that would extend the service interval. I think those bushings are about 15 bucks and not too bad to change but I would try a softer metal just to see what happens. Looks like it would be a fairly intricate piece if it were made of metal which would make it expensive.

I see... I haven’t changed mine yet. But it’s needed

 

[Admin]

 

[P1K5Dave]

Make sure you punch the new washer so it locks the steering pieces together. The driver side doesn’t have this bushing.

I'm confused about punching this lock washer. Everything else I'm reading says to line it up with the slots and put it together. The reference to punching it in the service manual has the whole steering box out on a bench.

If I'm just swapping out a tie rod, what am I punching, and how?

 

[joeymt33]

I'm confused about punching this lock washer. Everything else I'm reading says to line it up with the slots and put it together. The reference to punching it in the service manual has the whole steering box out on a bench.

If I'm just swapping out a tie rod, what am I punching, and how?

Honestly I don’t punch them in mine but I’ve got to say the proper way so someone doesn’t have one come loose and then completely loose.

But here’s what the manual states:

 

[Adam490]

I'm confused about punching this lock washer. Everything else I'm reading says to line it up with the slots and put it together. The reference to punching it in the service manual has the whole steering box out on a bench.

If I'm just swapping out a tie rod, what am I punching, and how?

If you look at the lock washer that you pulled off (if it was factory installed) you'll see they actually have 4 indents to prevent it from loosening up. A lot of people don't punch them when replacing on the side of a the trail because it's a pain in the ass to get to.

 

[joeymt33]

I'm confused about punching this lock washer. Everything else I'm reading says to line it up with the slots and put it together. The reference to punching it in the service manual has the whole steering box out on a bench.

If I'm just swapping out a tie rod, what am I punching, and how?

Also, just because you line up the two pieces in the slots doesn’t prevent the tire rod from spinning. Line up the lock washer with the two slots will prevent the washer from spinning and then punch the washer onto the tie rod and that will keep the tie rod from spinning

 

[Adam490]

Honestly I don’t punch them in mine but I’ve got to say the proper way so someone doesn’t have one come loose and then completely loose.

But here’s what the manual states:

View attachment 234786

A ghost!

 

[JACKAL]

I'm confused about punching this lock washer. Everything else I'm reading says to line it up with the slots and put it together. The reference to punching it in the service manual has the whole steering box out on a bench.

If I'm just swapping out a tie rod, what am I punching, and how?

refer to the pictures in this post

Multi - Field Stripping a Tie Rod

Does your tie rod look like this? Thought you would customize your Pioneers looks on an old stump? In case you where wondering, it is supposed to look like this: This guide is intended to help you get on your way, it is not a copy of the official factory service manual. Be carful working...

hondasxs.com

whole thread is about replacing the tie rod.

 

[P1K5Dave]

Thanks guys...how's a tie rod going to spin when it has a locking nut on the tie rod end?

Edit: wait, that's wrong. The ball joint can spin and unthread at the steering box side.

 

[P1K5Dave]

...and I'm assuming that when you take one apart, you're pushing the punch indentations back out by spinning it, or possibly tearing off those tabs?

 

[P1K5Dave]

Anyway, I did the steering "bearing" (plastic bushing) last night, I'll go back in today and punch that locker.

One note on the bushing, Joey's write-up says the two tabs on the bushing go into two holes in the steering box - it's actually just a groove going all the way around the inside of the hole that they clip into.

I also found that most of my slop came from the nappy old ball joint on the steering box end of my tie rod, so be prepared to replace the tie rod altogether if you're looking at sloppy steering.

I haven't gotten to trying step 3 yet...

 

[JTW]

...and I'm assuming that when you take one apart, you're pushing the punch indentations back out by spinning it, or possibly tearing off those tabs?

Tabs just tear

 

[JACKAL]

Thanks guys...how's a tie rod going to spin when it has a locking nut on the tie rod end?

Edit: wait, that's wrong. The ball joint can spin and unthread at the steering box side.

Though improbable, who wants to find out at 60 mph? 😬

 

[ohanacreek]

Though improbable, who wants to find out at 60 mph? 😬

Not improbable, if it’s SLIGHTLY loose all the vibration and steering movements WILL loosen it up. A little orange thread locker and punching the tabs is good insurance.

 

[Adam490]

Not improbable, if it’s SLIGHTLY loose all the vibration and steering movements WILL loosen it up. A little orange thread locker and punching the tabs is good insurance.

Also, any small bit of slack in the steering components puts a lot of stress on the rack. My rack was tight like new at 1000 miles, but as soon as my SATV bushings went to s*** in the arms after the driver side upper loosened up a couple times it wore the rack bushing significantly.

 

[JTW]

Also, any small bit of slack in the steering components puts a lot of stress on the rack. My rack was tight like new at 1000 miles, but as soon as my SATV bushings went to s*** in the arms after the driver side upper loosened up a couple times it wore the rack bushing significantly.

(Clears throat)..... have you considered??

 

[P1K5Dave]

I went back in yesterday to punch that locking washer. It's really hard to see where to punch when you're working ON the vehicle and not on a bench. And you cant get to more than one or two of them with a punch. I did the best I could, anyway.

 

[Adam490]

I went back in yesterday to punch that locking washer. It's really hard to see where to punch when you're working ON the vehicle and not on a bench. And you cant get to more than one or two of them with a punch. I did the best I could, anyway.

Yep, that's about all you can do.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I replaced the plastic bearing 5000 miles ago, never did @joeymt33 's second step. Now, recently I'm showing wobble on the RF tire pretty bad. I thought it was the inner tie rod end, replaced it with a new one and here's how it looks after completion:

Pioneer 1000 RF Steering Wobble

youtube.com

Pioneer 1000 RF Steering Wobble 2

youtube.com

 

[P1K5Dave]

So I'm looking for direction here. I can re-do the plastic bearing, and I will try to tighten the adjusting screw, but I wonder if I'm beyond that? Is this steering box in need of rebuild or replace instead?

LF side is tight as a drum, no problems there.

Running 30s on 1.5" spacers, Texas Tough Customs 3" lifted forward arms.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I went ahead and ordered a new steering box, figuring I can probably go thru this worn one when it's off the machine, perhaps rebuild it and keep it as a backup.