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Positive cable : Enter & Follow the same path as OEM run up & over top of battery.
Not fun : Tight fit can be done.
Ground cable : pick-up outside of battery box.
Sorry no Pictures:
Thanks, I’ll look at it again tomorrowWeren't you using a #1 wire? It might just be too big and you'll have to do some cutting to the box. I know I used #4 welding cable and believe I just fit it in the hole with all the other wires coming into the box.
Finally got it done! Battery fits like a glove in under hood tray. Negative buss bar, fuse box, Isolator all mounted on under hood cross member. Auxiliary battery ground disconnect switch located under dash on passenger side. Main battery positive routed up in chassis.
While thinking about the routing of the main battery positive cable I installed installed a 30” light bar on roof, 2- 4” cubes on back glove box with rockers for lights and USB ports and a AMP METER that gives readings for both batteries. A Equipment Defender locking 2-1/2 gallon gas can rack and new uhm skid plates with aluminum stick stoppers.
Now it’s time to do first service since I only have 80 miles on it.
Thanks for everybody’s input.
Thanks. Sorry I do not have a diagram. I ran #4 welding wire along the frame rail in split loam above my full skid plate to the front.Montecresto that's clean! Very nice. Any details on wires coming from original stock battery, maybe a diagram?
You are going to have trouble fitting your subwoofer under your driver seat with that battery in the way, 😝
Yup.The Green Goat, that's nice! Did you run the factory wire that was connected to the original battery + up to the switch like below? So with this set up I would need to bring two positive wire and one negative from existing battery box.
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