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P1000 Hello guys, need some help with my 2016 P1k Shifting Issues

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superman

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Hey guys,


I'm trying to chase down what the dealer and I think is in electrical issue. A new clutch (2nd time) and clutch upgrade was performed. After everything was put back together the sxs will not shift correctly and seems to go into a limp mode. Does it in manual or auto. The oil pressure light eventually comes on as well. The dealer said it was showing a code P74 and they replaced the 2 shift valves. They took it apart again and did something with the oil pump and checked for blockages and cleaned valve body. They replaced the PCM and the code remained. The clutch relearn was done but it seems like the PCM is resetting and losing the relearn state. When you try and drive it, the gear indicator acts like it just went into relearn mode and goes blank then dashes. Then gets stuck in whatever gear you where in. I cleaned the 3 ground connectors and put them back with dielectric grease. I did the same for the 2 ECU/PCM or whatever they are called connectors under the driver seat. I disconnected the 2nd battery and any ties into the main battery just incase it was something shorting out from my added accessories. Been trying to research on the forum to find other people with similar issues. I'm not sure if the oil light coming on and the shifting issues are related. The dealer mentioned when the light comes on their scanner still shows the pressures are fine. One person I saw had fixed a similar issue but cleaned out the 3 oil sensors connectors underneath the clutch assembly. I guess I need to get a service manual to find where those are. Thanks for any help.
 
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walexa07

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Yes, seems like another person had a similar problem where the oil pressure light would come on once warmed up and it turned out to be a missing o-ring.

Waylan
 
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Eltobgi

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Hey guys,


I'm trying to chase down what the dealer and I think is in electrical issue. A new clutch (2nd time) and clutch upgrade was performed. After everything was put back together the sxs will not shift correctly and seems to go into a limp mode. Does it in manual or auto. The oil pressure light eventually comes on as well. The dealer said it was showing a code P74 and they replaced the 2 shift valves. They took it apart again and did something with the oil pump and checked for blockages and cleaned valve body. They replaced the PCM and the code remained. The clutch relearn was done but it seems like the PCM is resetting and losing the relearn state. When you try and drive it, the gear indicator acts like it just went into relearn mode and goes blank then dashes. Then gets stuck in whatever gear you where in. I cleaned the 3 ground connectors and put them back with dielectric grease. I did the same for the 2 ECU/PCM or whatever they are called connectors under the driver seat. I disconnected the 2nd battery and any ties into the main battery just incase it was something shorting out from my added accessories. Been trying to research on the forum to find other people with similar issues. I'm not sure if the oil light coming on and the shifting issues are related. The dealer mentioned when the light comes on their scanner still shows the pressures are fine. One person I saw had fixed a similar issue but cleaned out the 3 oil sensors connectors underneath the clutch assembly. I guess I need to get a service manual to find where those are. Thanks for any help.
@superman, Let me know if you are interested in any sections here...
8DC0D502 10AC 42FB 8D8F C7B9BA26004B 9A2AEBC0 3FDC 40B8 9894 01E6AF2C2A52 E4540391 C83D 48A1 8F38 2E2B61F2F2AF
 
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Eltobgi

Eltobgi

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This is probably what was performed!
03392403 CE91 4F34 A489 0C7E849112B2
 
CumminsPusher

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Does it show "e" or just the dashes? Does it go into limp mode and show oil light just after two bars as it warms up?
 
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superman

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Does it show "e" or just the dashes? Does it go into limp mode and show oil light just after two bars as it warms up?

I'm not sure what's considered limp mode. I can start it up first thing when it's cold and it takes off in first then the RPM seems to go higher than normal before it shifts into 2nd. Seems to work better when I let off the gas. Then gear indicator blinks with dashes and goes blank then the number 2 starts blinking and it won't upshift or downshift. After it warms up then the oil light comes on. I can start it up and let it idle and not drive it then after 2 bars it finally shows the oil light. There's no check engine light that comes on. Maybe because the code is already stored in the computer.
 
CumminsPusher

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That's weird it slips coming into second though, that's not common. Hopefully it is something as simple as an o ring like mentioned, could be one of the fiber rings bunged up from install, my guess is somewhere in the wiring for the clutch cover. I've had close to the same issue and was in/out of it a bunch of times. This transmission is so overly complicated it's not funny. Is it not at the dealer? Has Honda been involved yet?
Out of curiosity what mileage did first clutch fail and what's it at currently with the second?
 
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Neohio

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Like the gentleman that had a similar issue a few weeks ago, ask dealer to order a new clutch cover kit. Ask them to install paying careful attention to all seals, wiring etc.

I hope it is as simple as a bad oring like before.

This makes me reconsider sending mine in too early. I don’t really trust my service department. Last time they had it, a bunch of my wiring had been disconnected, and fuses were blown. Wasn’t terribly impressed that they would not own up to it either.
 
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superman

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That's weird it slips coming into second though, that's not common. Hopefully it is something as simple as an o ring like mentioned, could be one of the fiber rings bunged up from install, my guess is somewhere in the wiring for the clutch cover. I've had close to the same issue and was in/out of it a bunch of times. This transmission is so overly complicated it's not funny. Is it not at the dealer? Has Honda been involved yet?
Out of curiosity what mileage did first clutch fail and what's it at currently with the second?

It was at the Honda dealer for 14 weeks. The miles were like 300 first time then like 350 second time.
 
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superman

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Like the gentleman that had a similar issue a few weeks ago, ask dealer to order a new clutch cover kit. Ask them to install paying careful attention to all seals, wiring etc.

I hope it is as simple as a bad oring like before.

This makes me reconsider sending mine in too early. I don’t really trust my service department. Last time they had it, a bunch of my wiring had been disconnected, and fuses were blown. Wasn’t terribly impressed that they would not own up to it either.

They did order the new cover which I guess is part of the clutch campaign. But it still has same issue after doing the upgrade.
 
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CumminsPusher

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It was at the Honda dealer for 14 weeks. The miles were like 300 first time then like 350 second time.
wow that second time was fast! It sure seems like they screwed something up on install on paper at least but I'm wondering if debris got inside one of the ports on first failure causing second so fast. Hopefully it's something simple. Love to see that back out going for you, I'm sorry for your bad luck Please keep us informed
 
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superman

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wow that second time was fast! It sure seems like they screwed something up on install on paper at least but I'm wondering if debris got inside one of the ports on first failure causing second so fast. Hopefully it's something simple. Love to see that back out going for you, I'm sorry for your bad luck Please keep us informed

If I didn't have bad luck, I would have no luck at all :)
 
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superman

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Yes, seems like another person had a similar problem where the oil pressure light would come on once warmed up and it turned out to be a missing o-ring.

Waylan

Do you know what part of the clutch the o-ring was missing from? Is this part of the normal clutch replacement or the new clutch campaign replacement?
 
Neohio

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Do you know what part of the clutch the o-ring was missing from? Is this part of the normal clutch replacement or the new clutch campaign replacement?
The missing/damaged o-ring was part of the improvement campaign.
He had the update installed at the dealer and started having issues.
We suggested he take it back and request a new kit be installed. It was during the 2nd installation that the o-ring issue was found. I believe that has solved his issue.
 
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superman

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The missing/damaged o-ring was part of the improvement campaign.
He had the update installed at the dealer and started having issues.
We suggested he take it back and request a new kit be installed. It was during the 2nd installation that the o-ring issue was found. I believe that has solved his issue.

Ok, thanks. Is that person on this forum?
 
Neohio

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I just tagged you in both threads. If you go to new posts, they will be there, or look on your profile under alerts.
 
CumminsPusher

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Still at the dealership trying to figure it out. I’ve been assigned a case manager and corporate is getting involved. Maybe they’ll buy back my machine and give me a brand new 2018 :)
Definitely a complicated system. Hopefully with Honda involved they'll get it figured out in a timely fashion. Thank you for the update
 
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