P1000 Help! Noam NUTV5-S Quad system not working

[jd83768]

Long post but I really need suggestions! I'm at a loss so any help would be appreciated! Got my 2021 Honda Pioneer 1000-5 in March. Bought the $900 Noam system with the sub and 4 speakers. Worked fine the first few times we rode (it was colder out- around 40-50 degrees). Went to a riding event all day in June it was 90 degrees and it worked fine the first few hours then started going off then few minutes later coming back on for maybe 5-10 minutes then back off..repeat all day. Thought it was my phone so used a different one but didn't help. If we would park for awhile then it would work fine again for an hour or so. Thought it was because we were out of service but so was our buddy (both using spotify) and he has Noam NUTV5 Quad (same thing as ours but without the sub) and his was working fine. Thought maybe it was overheating so we moved the amp to the same spot as his. Note: his is a 2020 1000-5. That still didn't work. Got home and added a second battery thinking the sub was using too much power. Took it out and same thing..worked first part of the day then started going silent a few minutes later picking back up where the song shut off EXCEPT it would work fine when driving faster down the gravel roads. Was sure the amp had to be overheating and the air movement was cooling it down. Called Noam and sent amp to be tested. Said it was fine they tested it for hours in extreme heat. They suggested to replace rocker switch (did that) and check wiring (used a tester and was working fine). Had my other buddy with a NOAM system without the sub to wire it up exactly like his. Listened to it for hours in the garage on high volume with no problems. Took it down the road and after 20 minutes it shut off again. The only thing different than his is we have a sub so we unhooked it. Still kept shutting off and coming back on. Called Noam and they said it isn't the system it has to be the sxs. At this point it is wired and placed EXACTLY like my two buddies..differences are the added sub and they both have a 2020 and I have a 2021. Noam won't give me a refund (even though it is still under warranty) or test the whole system for me. We've tried everything we can think of at this point so our only options are to buy a different Noam system (maybe like they both have) or get a completely different system. Either way I'm out $900 if I cant get this one to work. Any suggestions/advice? Thanks!

 

[Remington]

from your description, sounds like your cutting power intermittently. i would wire a cheap volt meter in series with its power coming in and watch it to see if its cutting out there. If thats the case, then its the way u have it hooked up. If it cuts out and the voltage stays the same, its the amp or another component in the system. I would then report my findings to Noam. Good luck.

 

[trigger]

My first thought was amp overheating but if you think that's covered then I'd start checking all the wiring.

 

[bumperm]

When you say it's shutting off, are you referring to the audio, or are all indicator lights, display, etc. off as well? If it's audio only, then no doubt the problem is intermittent within the amp, might be vibration related.

If all power drops off, as Remington mentioned, monitor the power. If you don't have a voltmeter handy, or it would be inconvenient, wiring a 12 volt LED (with resistor built in) or a component LED (add a current limiting resistor, 670 to 1K ohm in series with the LED) across the power leads going to amp. Now when the LED is on you have power, so you can tell if it's power related or a screwed up Naom.

 

[jd83768]

When you say it's shutting off, are you referring to the audio, or are all indicator lights, display, etc. off as well? If it's audio only, then no doubt the problem is intermittent within the amp, might be vibration related.

If all power drops off, as Remington mentioned, monitor the power. If you don't have a voltmeter handy, or it would be inconvenient, wiring a 12 volt LED (with resistor built in) or a component LED (add a current limiting resistor, 670 to 1K ohm in series with the LED) across the power leads going to amp. Now when the LED is on you have power, so you can tell if it's power related or a screwed up Naom.

Just the audio. The rocker switch and Bluetooth controller stay lit up continuously. I recently noticed that Noam sent me a different amp than what’s pictured with the system. I asked about it and they said that isn’t the problem. I attached the pic of the system I bought and one of the amp that came with it. Could that be it? They said if I thought that was the problem I’m welcome to buy the amp and try it. Don’t want to spend $300 more if that’s not the problem.

 

[Remington]

Just the audio. The rocker switch and Bluetooth controller stay lit up continuously. I recently noticed that Noam sent me a different amp than what’s pictured with the system. I asked about it and they said that isn’t the problem. I attached the pic of the system I bought and one of the amp that came with it. Could that be it? They said if I thought that was the problem I’m welcome to buy the amp and try it. Don’t want to spend $300 more if that’s not the problem.

View attachment 294072 View attachment 294073

Id still put a voltage reader in line and check it to be sure. Cross your T’s and dot all your I’s.Take pictures of your results so Noam cant tell you no. As i tell my apprentices, work smarter not harder.

 

[bumperm]

Won't hurt to do as Remington suggests, though I don't think power is the problem. If power sags, or is interrupted so as to dump audio, the lights would all go out in Massachusetts (as the Bee Gees would say).

I recommend powering it up (assuming it's working), gently tug and wiggle all wiring to see if you can induce failure. If that doesn't work, wrap a small hammer or similar in cloth to prevent damage to surfaces. Tap the device/s in different directions if possible to simulate vibration that unit would see in use. This may at least point you in the right direction if the failure is mechanical (intermittent solder joint, crack in PC board trace, etc. and you can induce the failure. Get back to us . . .

 

[Remington]

the lights would all go out in Massachusetts (as the Bee Gees would say).

🤣

 

[jd83768]

Update- did some testing last night. Meter stayed at 13 volts consistently and never changed rather audio was on or off. I unplugged the sub, still lost audio. Unplugged back two speakers, still lost audio. Unplugged only the front speakers, still lost audio. The Bluetooth controller was installed after the problem started so that’s not it. Rocker switch was also replaced recently so that’s not it either. Only thing left is the amp. The odd thing is that I noticed that every time my fan would kick on then that’s when I would lose audio. Once fan kicked back off it would come back on again. That explains why it doesn’t do it when first riding or when riding faster down roads. Maybe it’s the vibration. That’s all I can think of so tonight I’m gonna tap the amp as soon as I start it up and see if moving the amp makes it shut off like suggested.

 

[Remington]

Update- did some testing last night. Meter stayed at 13 volts consistently and never changed rather audio was on or off. I unplugged the sub, still lost audio. Unplugged back two speakers, still lost audio. Unplugged only the front speakers, still lost audio. The Bluetooth controller was installed after the problem started so that’s not it. Rocker switch was also replaced recently so that’s not it either. Only thing left is the amp. The odd thing is that I noticed that every time my fan would kick on then that’s when I would lose audio. Once fan kicked back off it would come back on again. That explains why it doesn’t do it when first riding or when riding faster down roads. Maybe it’s the vibration. That’s all I can think of so tonight I’m gonna tap the amp as soon as I start it up and see if moving the amp makes it shut off like suggested.

Thats good news. Process of elimination.
Question i have for you is, when the fan kicks on, does that voltage change?
Also, do you have the amp connected to that fans Circuit? If so, put the amp on its own. FYI it should be if at all possible.

 

[trigger]

Thats good news. Process of elimination.
Question i have for you is, when the fan kicks on, does that voltage change?
Also, do you have the amp connected to that fans Circuit? If so, put the amp on its own. FYI it should be if at all possible.

That's my question, exactly how is this thing wired? Sharing a circuit with something that's high draw isn't good for an amp.

 

[jd83768]

It’s wired directly to the battery same as my two buddies and we all have the same amp. If that’s it, I’m wondering why theirs doesn’t cut out too.

 

[jd83768]

The volt reader said 13v but the sound system on Noams page says it’s for a 12v vehicle. Maybe that’s it.

 

[bumperm]

The volt reader said 13v but the sound system on Noams page says it’s for a 12v vehicle. Maybe that’s it.

No, that's not it. 12 volt vehicle systems, and associated components, are designed to work properly through a range of voltage, as these systems see fluctuation during normal ops. When cranking the starter, some devices might shut down as the high current draw can drop the voltage as low as 10 to 11 volts or so. The nominally rated 12 volt battery will have a voltage of from the low 12's to as much as 14.2 or so while charging with the engine is running.

Devices, like radios and amps will have a specified voltage range that is often broader than the above. They'll have an on-board DC to DC converter to accept, as example, a range of 8 volts to 18 with no problem.

Back to the OP. If you feel the fan is involved, disconnect it while testing to see if the amp still fails. If the amp is easy to remove, swap it out for the amp from one of your friends. That way you can get proof positive that the amp is at fault, if that is the case.

 

[Remington]

No, that's not it. 12 volt vehicle systems, and associated components, are designed to work properly through a range of voltage, as these systems see fluctuation during normal ops. When cranking the starter, some devices might shut down as the high current draw can drop the voltage as low as 10 to 11 volts or so. The nominally rated 12 volt battery will have a voltage of from the low 12's to as much as 14.2 or so while charging with the engine is running.

Devices, like radios and amps will have a specified voltage range that is often broader than the above. They'll have an on-board DC to DC converter to accept, as example, a range of 8 volts to 18 with no problem.

Back to the OP. If you feel the fan is involved, disconnect it while testing to see if the amp still fails. If the amp is easy to remove, swap it out for the amp from one of your friends. That way you can get proof positive that the amp is at fault, if that is the case.

☝️ ☝️☝️THIS☝️☝️☝️

 

[thirdparty]

Would love to hear what the resolution of this was? If it was a wiring issue with the fan and not the amp, it's only fair to clear the air for NOAM.

 

[CID]

Would love to hear what the resolution of this was? If it was a wiring issue with the fan and not the amp, it's only fair to clear the air for NOAM.

He hasn't been here since September 2021.

 

[Remington]

Would love to hear what the resolution of this was? If it was a wiring issue with the fan and not the amp, it's only fair to clear the air for NOAM.

Sure would! Just like alot of threads with issues, people post them, get there answer and not show back up. The op hasn't been seen in just over a yr