P1000 Help!! Wiring switch panel and voltmeters

[JTW]

I did not put a high amprage relay in series with my fuse/relay panel. I just used a key on source to feed the switchs that controll the relays.

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That's what I was intending to do.. my switch lights would power from the Honda accessory.. but the relay box would always be hot so I could play the radio or run a work light on the auxiliary battery without having the key on.

 

[Admin]

 

[JTW]

I do. But I'd leave breaker directly off battery and connect heavy draw items that you may not run through the bussmann. If only planning the winch that could go to batt. instead.


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The only real heavy draw is the winch that's directly hooked to battery 2... the next heaviest draw is the 300watt light bar and it will be ran off the bussman on a relay. The next is the sound bar at less than 15 amps... I'll use a bussman relay since they're there. Anything else will just be minimal... less than 5 amps.

 

[Jshell3]

What it sounds like to me...

 

[CumminsPusher]

The only real heavy draw is the winch that's directly hooked to battery 2... the next heaviest draw is the 300watt light bar and it will be ran off the bussman on a relay. The next is the sound bar at less than 15 amps... I'll use a bussman relay since they're there. Anything else will just be minimal... less than 5 amps.

Then you're probably good without.
I did puke a circuit on my Bussmann my lightbar was suppose to be 300 watt and I hooked it up and occasionally blew 30a fuses I finally put 40a in and smoked that circuit. Pissed me off. I now think it's 380, not positive but apparently you can't run much over 300.


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[JTW]

Then you're probably good without.
I did puke a circuit on my Bussmann my lightbar was suppose to be 300 watt and I hooked it up and occasionally blew 30a fuses I finally put 40a in and smoked that circuit. Pissed me off. I now think it's 380, not positive but apparently you can't run much over 300.


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I checked the draw with an amp clamp when it first came in. It was right at 25 amps. I will say the breaker has been super handy cutting the power while working on things.

 

[CumminsPusher]

I checked the draw with an amp clamp when it first came in. It was right at 25 amps. I will say the breaker has been super handy cutting the power while working on things.

Ya like the breaker for that! Gave up big fuses immediately after using one


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[ghost]

Ya like the breaker for that! Gave up big fuses immediately after using one


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You basic setup is almost the same as mine - looks great.
Except I have the solenoid after the beaker.
I'm changing my main power switch for the solenoid to a DPDT - Off / Key-on Power / Always on.
So from the drivers seat I can switch off all custom wiring - that's handy for troubleshooting and in case of failure. I'll probably leave it on the middle setting most of the time so everything goes hot when I turn the key. Top position is for running stuff with the engine off.

The only thing that the Honda battery powers in my set up is the voltmeter. Theres no way around that. Even the LEDs in the switches and relay coils are powered from the second battery.

 

[ghost]

I used some quick connectors for a couple of things that I might need to disconnect - like my dome lights. So no problem if I want to take the roof off.

I just ordered some of these waterproof ones to replace some basic ones that didnt work out.
Amazon.com: TOOGOO(R) 10 Kit 2 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug: Automotive

 

[Montecresto]

I used some quick connectors for a couple of things that I might need to disconnect - like my dome lights. So no problem if I want to take the roof off.

I just ordered some of these waterproof ones to replace some basic ones that didnt work out.
Amazon.com: TOOGOO(R) 10 Kit 2 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug: Automotive

Yep, those are really a great investment. Spades won't keep the moisture out even with dielectric and heat shrink.

 

[JTW]

I used some quick connectors for a couple of things that I might need to disconnect - like my dome lights. So no problem if I want to take the roof off.

I just ordered some of these waterproof ones to replace some basic ones that didnt work out.
Amazon.com: TOOGOO(R) 10 Kit 2 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug: Automotive

I considered those but just figured spade connectors would do just as well?

 

[JTW]

What it sounds like to me...

Lmao!!! I just watched this!

 

[JTW]

Yep, those are really a great investment. Spades won't keep the moisture out even with dielectric and heat shrink.

But all your switches are already spade.. I'm just not sure it makes much difference. I think it might be easier to just replace a corroded spade every 10 years.

 

[JTW]

You basic setup is almost the same as mine - looks great.
Except I have the solenoid after the beaker.
I'm changing my main power switch for the solenoid to a DPDT - Off / Key-on Power / Always on.
So from the drivers seat I can switch off all custom wiring - that's handy for troubleshooting and in case of failure. I'll probably leave it on the middle setting most of the time so everything goes hot when I turn the key. Top position is for running stuff with the engine off.

The only thing that the Honda battery powers in my set up is the voltmeter. Theres no way around that. Even the LEDs in the switches and relay coils are powered from the second battery.

So if your switches are powered by the second battery you have to manually switch them on to get power to the switch lights? I'm thinking I want them on the keyed accessory power but I dunno.

 

[ohanacreek]

So if your switches are powered by the second battery you have to manually switch them on to get power to the switch lights? I'm thinking I want them on the keyed accessory power but I dunno.

Sounds like he can pick via a switch.

 

[JTW]

Sounds like he can pick via a switch.

Yeah.. that's not computing as to how that works.

 

[ohanacreek]

He has a DPDT switch where the common is the output and the inputs are fed from a constant source and from the ign switched source and he chooses which one powers the relay that turns his accessory power on.

 

[ohanacreek]

He has a DPDT switch where the common is the output and the inputs are fed from a constant source and from the ign switched source and he chooses which one powers the relay that turns his accessory power on.

Wish I'd thought of that but I'm def going to copy it.

 

[ghost]

He has a DPDT switch where the common is the output and the inputs are fed from a constant source and from the ign switched source and he chooses which one powers the relay that turns his accessory power on.

Yeah - thats it. I think.
I have a mater switch that controls everything. It triggers the solenoid which feeds the Bussman.
The DPDT switch can be:
- Off...or
- Key-on power triggers the solenoid... or
- Second battery triggers solenoid (via 5 amp fuse)

So I forgot - the middle position of the switch will also draw some current from the Honda battery when the key is on. Its not just the volt meter.

The only thing thats different is the winch that pulls directly from the second battery. The power to trigger the winch comes from the bussman - so also from the second battery. Im just kinda anal about isolating everything from factory.

 

[ghost]

So if your switches are powered by the second battery you have to manually switch them on to get power to the switch lights? I'm thinking I want them on the keyed accessory power but I dunno.

I can have all my lights on and accessories running. Turn the key off and everything is off. That's great most of the time but sometimes I want to run stuff without turning the key - so I put the switch in the top position and everything comes on again.

 

[JTW]

Yeah - thats it. I think.
I have a mater switch that controls everything. It triggers the solenoid which feeds the Bussman.
The DPDT switch can be:
- Off...or
- Key-on power triggers the solenoid... or
- Second battery triggers solenoid (via 5 amp fuse)

So I forgot - the middle position of the switch will also draw some current from the Honda battery when the key is on. Its not just the volt meter.

The only thing thats different is the winch that pulls directly from the second battery. The power to trigger the winch comes from the bussman - so also from the second battery. Im just kinda anal about isolating everything from factory.

Well that's where I'm at.. waiting on my solenoid and power switch to come in... need to run the rest of my jumper wires and then hook everything up. I'm open to better ways of running things!