P1000 Help!! Wiring switch panel and voltmeters

[JTW]

I can have all my lights on and accessories running. Turn the key off and everything is off. That's great most of the time but sometimes I want to run stuff without turning the key - so I put the switch in the top position and everything comes on again.

I like that.. do you have a link for the switch?

 

[Admin]

 

[ghost]

Well that's where I'm at.. waiting on my solenoid and power switch to come in... need to run the rest of my jumper wires and then hook everything up. I'm open to better ways of running things!

This is one I ordered:
V-SERIES SEALED ROCKER SWITCH, BODY ONLY, NO ROCKER
I chose green leds. Nothing else on mine is green and I wanted it different.
This is the rocker I'm getting.
CONTURA V, AUX BATTERY, ROCKER ONLY
You can change the wording on the rocker - mine says "Accessory Power". I wish I could put Homer Simpsons face as the icon and I would change the words to Max Power.

 

[Hudge]

I need help as well is there another source for keyed power other than the two out put wires on acc fuse I hate to tap into factory wires. Is there a pig tail somewhere?

 

[JTW]

I need help as well is there another source for keyed power other than the two out put wires on acc fuse I hate to tap into factory wires. Is there a pig tail somewhere?

You realize I'm not "tapping" into them but rather using one of these.


Amazon.com: 10 Pack - EPAuto 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder: Automotive

 

[JTW]

I need help as well is there another source for keyed power other than the two out put wires on acc fuse I hate to tap into factory wires. Is there a pig tail somewhere?

I need help as well is there another source for keyed power other than the two out put wires on acc fuse I hate to tap into factory wires. Is there a pig tail somewhere?

But I've asked the same question and nobody has much input on that..

 

[Boomboom907]

Probably redundant, but here's how I did my single battery setup, which would be the exact same thing as a double but with one less solinoid.

Key on power > solinoid.
Battery+ > solinoid.
Battery- > solinoid.
Solinoid + > all switches
Switches + > accessory
Accessory - > solinoid

If you want to do double battery, all you do is throw another solinoid and run the key on to that as well. Wire your second battery to your accessory solinoid.

I don't think there's a pigtail. I spliced and I've had no problems at all. Just make sure to use a relay or solinoid. That wire is stupid thin.

Also, adding a master switch is very easy.... Any switch works. All you do is

Bat+ > switch
Switch > output post of solinoid

Just make sure you select a switch that has no drain when in the off position. 5 pin won't work. I would get one of those jet fighter switches in green. Cool switch cover, you can't accidently turn it off, and when you want to turn it off you just close the cover and it pushes the switch off.
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[JTW]

Am I missing something??



I plugged the fuse taps into the accessory fuse plug and now the lid won't shut... what did you all do about this? This is my source where I'm getting the little bit of keyed power I need.

@CumminsPusher @AKRider

 

[Boomboom907]

Am I missing something??

View attachment 34844 View attachment 34845

I plugged the fuse taps into the accessory fuse plug and now the lid won't shut... what did you all do about this? This is my source where I'm getting the little bit of keyed power I need.

@CumminsPusher @AKRider

Wait.... There's a thing you can slip over a fuse to get power?

If that's what I'm seeing that is the coolest thing ever.

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[JTW]

Wait.... There's a thing you can slip over a fuse to get power?

If that's what I'm seeing that is the coolest thing ever.

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Yep.. only the cover won't fit now.

 

[AKRider]

Am I missing something??

View attachment 34844 View attachment 34845

I plugged the fuse taps into the accessory fuse plug and now the lid won't shut... what did you all do about this? This is my source where I'm getting the little bit of keyed power I need.

@CumminsPusher @AKRider

Sorry I missed this. I did it just like this...

P1000 - Key On Power, Illumination, and backup source! - Honda Pioneer 1000

 

[JTW]

Is this how everyone else has done it??

 

[Boomboom907]

Is this how everyone else has done it??

That's how I did it. I'll get get you a pic if you need.

Just clamp one of those splitters on and run it to your solinoid. It won't take any power worth talking about off the stock wiring. If you don't like it take the clamp off and use some liquid electric tape.

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[CumminsPusher]

Yep.. only the cover won't fit now.

Are used to piggyback and my cover fits


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[AKRider]

Is this how everyone else has done it??

Not sure about everyone. I used the Posi-Taps... like these...

Amazon.com: Posi-Tap Connectors Kit- Includes Taps for 22 through 10 Gauge Wires, Plus 2 Fuseholders!: Automotive

 

[JTW]

Are used to piggyback and my cover fits


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Really?? I tried on mine and dad's machines and the cover won't fit down. It's a good 1/8-1/4 from snapping into place!

 

[JTW]

Not sure about everyone. I used the Posi-Taps... like these...

Amazon.com: Posi-Tap Connectors Kit- Includes Taps for 22 through 10 Gauge Wires, Plus 2 Fuseholders!: Automotive

I bought some just incase.. but I was looking forward to this working!

 

[lrandy129]

Am I missing something??

View attachment 34844 View attachment 34845

I plugged the fuse taps into the accessory fuse plug and now the lid won't shut... what did you all do about this? This is my source where I'm getting the little bit of keyed power I need.

@CumminsPusher @AKRider

It may be a difference in how they're made. The type you have (I have some like them) has a hard sleeve/strain-relief from the add-a-fuse body to the wire and I think that's what the lid is hitting. Maybe slot the fuseblock cover to accommodate or buy the type where the wire comes directly out of the add-a-fuse body.

Would one like this work?


@CumminsPusher Where'd you get yours from?

 

[JTW]

It may be a difference in how they're made. The type you have (I have some like them) has a hard sleeve/strain-relief from the add-a-fuse body to the wire and I think that's what the lid is hitting. Maybe slot the fuseblock cover to accommodate or buy the type where the wire comes directly out of the add-a-fuse body.

Would one like this work?
View attachment 34884

I'll try one and find out.. but I think it's hitting on the back flat but I dunno. If the other kind doesn't work I'll try a heat gun on the cover I guess?

 

[lrandy129]

I'm in the same boat. I thought about slotting the cover, but think I'd rather get one that will fit under the cover. I think the mini fuses are APM or ATM type? Going to shop around Amazon and fleabay a bit...

 

[JTW]

I'm in the same boat. I thought about slotting the cover, but think I'd rather get one that will fit under the cover. I think the mini fuses are APM or ATM type? Going to shop around Amazon and fleabay a bit...

I'll come up with something even if I have to use the posi-tap but I really wanted this to work.. I guess I could cut a square notch in it, put in a height spacer in the hole and then jbweld over it.