P1000 Help!! Wiring switch panel and voltmeters

[JTW]

Ok.. so I was up all night trying to get things wrapped up on my build before this weekend... So my mind isn't working very efficiently right now... here's the deal. I have a dual battery setup with the bussman relay prewired fuse panel like many have bought. 5 relays and fuses and 5 hot fused circuits. I'm running 5 pin switches. And I want to run a voltmeter for each battery. The little digital leds voltmeters only have a positive and negative which means if hooked directly to the battery like I had original thought I would do.. won't they remain on all the time? So how did you guys they have ran a dual setup with two meters, wire them? Will I need them on a switch or is there another way I'm not considering?


Second.. let's say we're wiring a light on a relayed out put on our bussman box, does the trigger wire go to lower left switch post 3? And the larger relayed feed wires go to the actual light? What about the center post 2 on the switch, what now feeds it? Sorry, but relays are not making sense to me this morning.. thanks for the help!

 

[Admin]

 

[ghost]

I have one voltmeter connected to the Honda key-on power. I spliced into the wire that feeds to factory 12v accessory connection.

My second battery has an 80 amp solenoid that provides power to the Bussman. There is a switch on the dash to activate that solenoid. When I throw the switch, the solenoid is engaged and the Bussman and all my accessories become active. So my second voltmeter just comes off one of the Bussman fused lines. Only on when I activate the master switch (ie solenoid).

I'm not sure what switches you have but one of the posts needs 12v to activate the relay. I used one of the fused lines to feed all my relay switches. Hope that helps...

 

[joeymt33]

What he said, I just started typing and realized when I spent all that time, ghost had already done a great job.

 

[JTW]

I have one voltmeter connected to the Honda key-on power. I spliced into the wire that feeds to factory 12v accessory connection.

My second battery has an 80 amp solenoid that provides power to the Bussman. There is a switch on the dash to activate that solenoid. When I throw the switch, the solenoid is engaged and the Bussman and all my accessories become active. So my second voltmeter just comes off one of the Bussman fused lines. Only on when I activate the master switch (ie solenoid).

I'm not sure what switches you have but one of the posts needs 12v to activate the relay. I used one of the fused lines to feed all my relay switches. Hope that helps...

Gotcha... they're just mictuning 5 pin lit rocker switches... so do the switches still have a main battery line feeding the center post to all of them then? I know I have to have a keyed power for the lower right pin 6. And I want them hot all the time so other than the trigger wire nothing else will run to the switch from the bussman. ??

 

[JTW]

So to make this work I need to get a solenoid today..

 

[JTW]

So then with the solenoid does your key have to be on to run your accessories?

 

[ghost]

Gotcha... they're just mictuning 5 pin lit rocker switches... so do the switches still have a main battery line feeding the center post to all of them then? I know I have to have a keyed power for the lower right pin 6. And I want them hot all the time so other than the trigger wire nothing else will run to the switch from the bussman. ??
View attachment 32550

Yup - Pin 2 needs +12v

For your bussman relays that is just any +12 (in my case I'm using one of the bussman fused lines that is triggered by the ).
For bussman fused circuits, pin would be the wire from the bussman for the fuse you are using on that circuit.

I think there are other ways but I like the solenoid.

 

[ghost]

So then with the solenoid does your key have to be on to run your accessories?

My solenoid can be activated without key-on. Thru a 5 amp fuse from the main battery. That way I can run whatever I want off the second battery without turning the key. I can run a work light for hours without any risk of draining the main battery.

Some people like to power it thru key-on power.

 

[JTW]

@Tramguage1 @CumminsPusher

 

[CumminsPusher]

You can also run a dpst relay to turn it on. This relay makes use of two triggers to turn on one thing without effecting either. So either key or switch turns it on.
I run 80amp large relay to turn on the Bussmann then relay then dpst relay to turn that on. Can also run two separate relays one for switch and one for key. I like this setup so everything works either way, however the winch, lightbar and amp aren't allowed without key
I decided to do this so power off means power off no possible issue in the switch panel

 

[Tramguage1]

You could always install a seperate relay that is triggered from a key on source. Then run both the grounds (-) through a normally open contact. The ground is common to both batteries. The hot side of the meters would go to each battery +. Or the + feed on the new relay box for auxiliary, and the hot used the key on trigger. Hopfully that makes sence.

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[Eltobgi]

@JTW notice the three red switches below the plate

1st switch is 12 volt power and the next two red switches are for the volt meters one for each!

Liked the idea of the red glow in the compartment and was looking for the same solution you are!

 

[Tramguage1]

I did not put a high amprage relay in series with my fuse/relay panel. I just used a key on source to feed the switchs that controll the relays.

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[JTW]

So this is my setup as of now.. I don't know that you can tell much. I'm debating on leaving it the way it is and just put a switch on the second battery voltmeter as I have a couple open, being as if have to run a switch for a solenoid anyway. Then everything still remains hot with the key off and I have less "stuff" to potentially fail. The only thing that will run on the Honda accessory power will be the switch lights and the starter battery voltmeter via the fuse tap on the Honda fuse panel. Any thoughts on that?

 

[CumminsPusher]

So this is my setup as of now.. I don't know that you can tell much. I'm debating on leaving it the way it is and just put a switch on the second battery voltmeter as I have a couple open, being as if have to run a switch for a solenoid anyway. Then everything still remains hot with the key off and I have less "stuff" to potentially fail. The only thing that will run on the Honda accessory power will be the switch lights and the starter battery voltmeter via the fuse tap on the Honda fuse panel. Any thoughts on that?

View attachment 32626 View attachment 32627

Personally I don't like leaving things hot as it's a way for battery drain even if it's accessory. If a problem does arise it's harder to deal with.
A switch at least prior to switch power at minimum imo could be added to kill it too


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[Eltobgi]

So this is my setup as of now.. I don't know that you can tell much. I'm debating on leaving it the way it is and just put a switch on the second battery voltmeter as I have a couple open, being as if have to run a switch for a solenoid anyway. Then everything still remains hot with the key off and I have less "stuff" to potentially fail. The only thing that will run on the Honda accessory power will be the switch lights and the starter battery voltmeter via the fuse tap on the Honda fuse panel. Any thoughts on that?

View attachment 32626 View attachment 32627

Looks really clean! Nice job @JTW

 

[Tramguage1]

Looks nice.

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[JTW]

So what are your alls thoughts on pulling out the 150amp breaker (right before the bussman) and just replacing it with a switched solenoid, y'all think that would be a better solution?

 

[JTW]

@JTW notice the three red switches below the plate
View attachment 32623
1st switch is 12 volt power and the next two red switches are for the volt meters one for each!
View attachment 32624
Liked the idea of the red glow in the compartment and was looking for the same solution you are!

That's a nice setup.. I like it!

 

[JTW]

You could always install a seperate relay that is triggered from a key on source. Then run both the grounds (-) through a normally open contact. The ground is common to both batteries. The hot side of the meters would go to each battery +. Or the + feed on the new relay box for auxiliary, and the hot used the key on trigger. Hopfully that makes sence.

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It does.. that's not a bad option.

 

[CumminsPusher]

So what are your alls thoughts on pulling out the 150amp breaker (right before the bussman) and just replacing it with a switched solenoid, y'all think that would be a better solution?

I do. But I'd leave breaker directly off battery and connect heavy draw items that you may not run through the bussmann. If only planning the winch that could go to batt. instead.


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